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  1. #1
    We just can't have nice things... darkrainfall's Avatar
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    Black and White Developing

    I have decided to regress and start developing my own black and white film again... but I've never mixed my own chemicals, and i've always just used what was in the labs...
    I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to a brand to use. .. or if it matters at all...
    of course any and all other suggestions about developing are welcome. Thanks!

  2. #2
    has-been... another view's Avatar
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    Try Kodak D-76 developer and Kodak Tri-X 400 film. That's a classic combination that's been around for 50 years, and it's very forgiving. D-76 is a powder developer, and you have to mix it with warm (125 deg?) water for it to dilute correctly. Another option would be T-Max 400 and T-Max developer. This is a concentrated liquid developer so it's a little easier to work with - but personally I don't care for it. Once you get that down, there's other film/developer combinations that I've seen great results from but don't have enough experience to tell you about...

    You'll also need stop bath (Kodak Indicator Stop) and fixer (Kodafix). A good primer is "Into your Darkroom Step by Step" by Dennis Curtain. That book will show you everything else you need to get started. You don't need a darkroom to develop film, I load my tank in a dark bag and develop it in the kitchen sink (carefully scrubbing it out afterwards).

    I'm pretty new to this and haven't done any printing yet. Since scanning tends to accentuate grain, I'll have to get into printing at some point for the results I want. Although I'm mostly shooting digital, there's just something about an expertly printed black and white that you just can't do with digital.

    Buy your stuff used - it's going for nothing these days. Check ebay and local places before you buy new. Other people have used other chemestry but this is what I can buy locally and seems to work for me. Ilford's products look great but I can't get them locally.

  3. #3
    Co-Moderator, Photography as Art forum megan's Avatar
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    I agree...

    Starting with Tri-X and D-76 is a good start, and then once you get comfortable with that, experiment with other developers if you choose. I develop my own B&W film in the bathroom as well. You'll need [2] gallon jugs, one labelled for fix, one for D-76. Label heavily with a sharpie! You can get the brown plastic jugs from B&H, link is on this site. I also use photo flow after my last wash - it cuts down on the water spots and streaks on the film. Make sure to get a reliable thermometer! I recommend against the digital thermometer - the one I got said "do not submerge." That's kind of difficult at times, and the thermometer didn't last long. I'll check the brand that finally ended up working for me - it's dial-style, and can be easily re-calibrated. I also have the Patterson 3-way digital timer than you can set for the developer, rinse, and fix.

    I use the plastic Patterson developing tank systems, but some might prefer the metal. The metal will last longer [the white Patterson reels get stained and worn with age] but I've always had difficulty getting the film on, and have more than once gotten stuck-together negatives with those.

    Good luck! Enjoy!

    Megan

  4. #4
    don't tase me, bro! Asylum Steve's Avatar
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    Kodak? NOT...

    I stopped using Kodak products in the late 1970s because I found that Ilford was cheaper and just as good. Oh, and their film canisters were reusable...

    Well, a lot has changed since then. Given the choice, today I would still use Ilford because their products are cheaper and IMO BETTER.

    There is no better line of b&w film than the Ilford Delta series: super fine grain at lower ISOs, and beautifully structured grain at higher ISOs.

    Ilford's chemistry is all liquid concentrate, which trust me, is infinitely easier to work with and has a much longer shelf life than powdered mixes.

    Still, to each their own. You should try both and see which you prefer...
    "Riding along on a carousel...tryin' to catch up to you..."

    -Steve
    Studio & Lighting - Photography As Art Forum Moderator

    Running the Photo Asylum, Asylum Steve's blogged brain pipes...
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  5. #5
    Sleep is optional Sebastian's Avatar
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    Steve,

    Would you mind listing everything one would need to start working with Ilford chemicals? I am interested in developing some of my rolls and I don't want to hassle with the Kodak powder, and since most of my film is Ilford I figure mind as well go that route since it's easier to work with.
    -Seb

    My website

    (Please don't edit and repost my images without my permission. Thank you)

    How to tell the most experienced shooter in a group? They have the least amount of toys on them.

  6. #6
    has-been... another view's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asylum Steve
    Ilford's chemistry is all liquid concentrate, which trust me, is infinitely easier to work with and has a much longer shelf life than powdered mixes.
    Liquid concentrates are a lot easier to deal with - powder requires heating the water to get the chemical to dissolve properly. That means mixing the chemestry well before you can use it so it can cool down from 125 deg to 68 deg or whatever you're using it at. Kodak's T-Max is a concentrate, and usually gets dilluted 1:4. I'm not a big fan of T-Max films other than TMZ (TMZ - grainy but cool).

    Ilford's standard ID-11 is (from what I understand) equivalent to Kodak's D-76 which is a powder. It isn't too tough to do it, just plan ahead. I just bought some Ilford Microphen which is supposed to be great for Delta 3200. That one is a two-part powder but I haven't tried it yet.

    BTW - I recommend using distilled water with all chemestry... I use stainless tanks and reels and it does require a bit of practice but once you the hang of it, it's pretty easy. Pick up a reel (has to be perfect, not dropped) and practice loading it in the light. Practice it a few times watching TV, etc and when you feel comfortable with it do it with your eyes closed - when you can do that, do it in a changing bag and when you're confident with that then try it with "real" film.

    Seb, it's easier to show you than explain it. Next time I see you I'll bring a reel and a practice roll.

  7. #7
    Sleep is optional Sebastian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by another view
    Seb, it's easier to show you than explain it. Next time I see you I'll bring a reel and a practice roll.
    Steve,

    No need, although I appreciate the offer. I have done enough developing in school to be pretty confident with that. I have all the chemicals, rolls, changing bag,etc. I just never got around to mixing the chems, and are even less inclined to do it now. Mixing the liquid would be much easier.

    Thanks for the tips.
    -Seb

    My website

    (Please don't edit and repost my images without my permission. Thank you)

    How to tell the most experienced shooter in a group? They have the least amount of toys on them.

  8. #8
    Janie O'Canon Rebel Janie's Avatar
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    http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html I found the website for their products, and found a distributor in the US:
    UNITED STATES & LATIN AMERICA
    ILFORD Imaging USA Inc
    West 70 Century Road
    Paramus, NJ 07652
    1-201-265-6000
    us-techsupport@ilford.com
    http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...s/Paramus.html
    http://janehaas.com

    "Art is part of a rebellion against the realities of unfulfilled desire." ~Emma Goldman
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  9. #9
    don't tase me, bro! Asylum Steve's Avatar
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    Actually, I lied...

    I do use (or did use) some Kodak chemistry with my darkroom processing.

    The Ilford chemistry I used was the film developer and fixer. The Kodak chemistry I used was the stop bath, hypo clearing agent, and photo-flo. All were liquid concentrates...
    "Riding along on a carousel...tryin' to catch up to you..."

    -Steve
    Studio & Lighting - Photography As Art Forum Moderator

    Running the Photo Asylum, Asylum Steve's blogged brain pipes...
    www.stevenpaulhlavac.com
    www.photoasylum.com

  10. #10
    Sleep is optional Sebastian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Janie
    http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html I found the website for their products, and found a distributor in the US:
    UNITED STATES & LATIN AMERICA
    ILFORD Imaging USA Inc
    West 70 Century Road
    Paramus, NJ 07652
    1-201-265-6000
    us-techsupport@ilford.com
    http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...s/Paramus.html
    Thanks Janie, but I think the distributor info is a bit more than we need, pretty much any decent photo store carries this stuff. My question was as to what specifically Steve used in his Ilford developing process.
    -Seb

    My website

    (Please don't edit and repost my images without my permission. Thank you)

    How to tell the most experienced shooter in a group? They have the least amount of toys on them.

  11. #11
    Janie O'Canon Rebel Janie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sebastian
    Thanks Janie, but I think the distributor info is a bit more than we need, pretty much any decent photo store carries this stuff. My question was as to what specifically Steve used in his Ilford developing process.

    Actually, Another View said: "Buy your stuff used - it's going for nothing these days. Check ebay and local places before you buy new. Other people have used other chemestry but this is what I can buy locally and seems to work for me. Ilford's products look great but I can't get them locally."

    I couldn't remember at first who couldn't find it, but reread the thread and found it!
    http://janehaas.com

    "Art is part of a rebellion against the realities of unfulfilled desire." ~Emma Goldman
    Member:


  12. #12
    Sleep is optional Sebastian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asylum Steve
    I do use (or did use) some Kodak chemistry with my darkroom processing.

    The Ilford chemistry I used was the film developer and fixer. The Kodak chemistry I used was the stop bath, hypo clearing agent, and photo-flo. All were liquid concentrates...
    Thanks Steve.
    -Seb

    My website

    (Please don't edit and repost my images without my permission. Thank you)

    How to tell the most experienced shooter in a group? They have the least amount of toys on them.

  13. #13
    We just can't have nice things... darkrainfall's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions! I'm sorry I haven't replied earlier, I've been too busy to even visit the forums. My family came to visit me for memorial day weekend.
    I'm already rather used to loading film on reels as I have done it quite a bit while at school. Thank you for advising me as to which chemicals to use. I think I'll end up using a combination of Ilford and Kodak and I will definitely be using liquids.
    Another View,
    Thanks for reminding me to use distilled water, I definitely would have forgotten that.

    *smile* Thanks all.

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