Shooting my first cycling criterium

[Bob32]

In Chico, California there is a lot of interest in cycling, and races are held from time to time, but until recently I
always found out about them after they had already been run! A few days ago I finally found about a criterium before the fact. It was held in the downtown area with different groups racing most of the day. This was my first experience in shooting cycling races, and I was eager to catch the action. I did some Googling in search of cycling photography tips, but I was not able to find much useful information.

My primary interest was in panning with the camera to emphasize the sense of motion in the images produced. This
called for slow shutter speeds. One source I read beforehand suggested using shutter speeds in the 1/40-1/60 range. That seemed too slow, so I started out at 1/80. I was not able to obtain acceptable results at 1/80. I also found out that
panning is not as easy as it looks! Results depend upon a number of factors like racer speed, distance from racer, and
the angle between the axis of the lens and the direction the racer is following. (I found that motion blur is most
pronounced when the lens axis is perpendicular to the direction in which the racer is moving). It also depends on
how steady the guy is behind the camera! I tried using VR with my 70-300 VR but it didn’t improve the situation. I had
some success at 1/100, but even that shutter speed was marginal. I ended up shooting most of the time at 1/125. I
even shot some at 1/160. I moved up to 1/250 in shooting the racers going through a turn. Fortunately my panning technique improved somewhat as the day wore on.

This turned out to be a largely experimental operation, but I learned a lot and hopefully will be better prepared for the
next cycling race although I expect to continue experimenting. I trashed a lot of images on the spot and trashed 2/3 of the 900+ images I returned home with. I’m posting a few of the better images I was able to come up with.

A D700 was used along with a 24-85 f/2.8-4 and a 70-300 VR, mostly the latter. All images posted here were taken with the 70-300 VR. Exposure was shutter priority.

Comments are welcome.

Bob

[Chris350]

Nice work.
Your shutter speed is going to be a factor of how fast the subject moves left to right to blur the background. The other factor is the need to stop the motion of legs, feet etc. to get the subject sharp.
A useful tool in this instance is fill flash. I use it a lot when working races. Especially when shooting wide-angle lenses. You can drop your shutter speed further and rely on the strobe to stop the subject motion instead of using the shutter speed. With fill and shutter priority I can drop my shutter speeds to 1/60 with no problem. I play around with slow sync and rear sync flash release as well for different light effects. You can also use aperture priority to make play with depth of field and range of illumination when using fill.
The real pros (not me yet..) do this in full manual. You then have complete control of background blur, subject motion and range of illumination. Also Fill Flash will help set off your subject from the background.
Race work is an art as much as anything.
You may want to double check the VR set up, but as I recall, it actually ought to help with subject motion. I use it.
Here's a couple for fun:


In the pouring rain. Rider and bike frame are nicely focused, while everything else is moving. no flash.

Basic EXIF:
Exposure Time:1/100
F Number:4.5
Exposure Program:Shutter speed priority AE
ISO:100
Flash:No Flash
Focal Length:16.0mm

And for a more extreme sense of motion:


Notice that there is a point in the frame that is fully stopped and focused. Lot's of sense of motion. Fill flash.
Basic Exif:
Exposure Time:1/60
F Number:13.0
Exposure Program:Aperture-priority AE
Flash:Fired, Return detected
Focal Length:16.0 mm
ISO:100

[Bob32]

Chris,

Thanks for the response.

In my case I've never been a fan of flash and would likely not use it for such an application unless I couldn't get results any other way and had reached the point of desperation! Other factors: a) For sports I shoot in bursts at 5 FPS and am not sure that I could generate flashes at that rate and b) I'm a senior citizen and like to travel light when shooting events. Therefore, I'm adverse to lugging around any more equipment than absolutely necessary. I do own a flash unit but last used it for a high school reunion two years ago. Monopods and tripods are also on my "Do Not Carry" list. I don't own either.

Another guy I know who has more sports photography experience than me gave VR a try when shooting cycling races at slow shutter speeds, and he told me that he turned it off like I did. You'd think that VR would be of benefit in this sort of situation, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Bob

[Chris350]

Chris,

Thanks for the response.

In my case I've never been a fan of flash and would likely not use it for such an application unless I couldn't get results any other way and had reached the point of desperation! Other factors: a) For sports I shoot in bursts at 5 FPS and am not sure that I could generate flashes at that rate and b) I'm a senior citizen and like to travel light when shooting events. Therefore, I'm adverse to lugging around any more equipment than absolutely necessary. I do own a flash unit but last used it for a high school reunion two years ago. Monopods and tripods are also on my "Do Not Carry" list. I don't own either.

Another guy I know who has more sports photography experience than me gave VR a try when shooting cycling races at slow shutter speeds, and he told me that he turned it off like I did. You'd think that VR would be of benefit in this sort of situation, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Bob

Regarding fill flash, to each his own. It's like arguing mac vs. PC. All the top pro cycling shooters use it at some point. It's another tool to be understood and used.
I should have thought to leave out the EXIF flash info to see who might be able to pick the fill flash image from the image without. Done right one never see's the "flash" just the different exposure.
I shoot in 2's and 3's. One will be exposed with fill and the next will be shot existing light. No problem. The joy of modern metering and camera control. That doesn't work in M of course. I never have time to sort through big bursts. A days shooting for me can be up to 1500 images. Really have no time for multiples.
No camera support here either. I'm motorcycle qualified race photographer. If it doesn't hang over my shoulders or fit in a low profile belt set up it doesn't go. I do carry two flashes, because it's such a useful tool. Two bodies, one medium tele, one wide. Flash for both.
VR is a hit or miss. I use it and I don't use it. Depends on the situation.

[Bob32]

Chris,

Even though I'm still reluctant to use flash for cycling races you have succeeded in getting me to commence thinking about doing so! I can see where it would offer benefits in lightening shadows and enabling me to use slower shutter speeds. It would also help me justify my purchase of a Nikon SB-600 flash unit in 2010! I've hardly used it at all.

Let's say that I have managed to overcome my resistance to flash and have my SB-600 mounted in the hot shoe of my D700 + 70-300VR, all in readiness to shoot my next criterium. I'd probably be zoomed out to 80-100 mm. like I was in downtown Chico. What camera settings would you suggest I use to start the ball rolling? If I shoot at 5 FPS will I get a flash with each frame? (Bursts are pretty short when shooting the fast moving cyclists). Please don't spare the details. I'm a neophyte when it comes to flash.

Bob

P.S. When it comes to Mac vs. PC I'm a Mac man all the way. I got my divorce from Windows in 2007 and I have no intention of going back!

[mattb]

Those are good for a first try, I think! I shoot mostly offroad cycling so when I do shoot a road race it take me a few frames to get acclimated to the speed.
Chris, how do you become a "motorcycle qualified race photographer"? I did a stage of the USAPCC last year in a team car and I was jealous of the guys on motos for their ability to shoot from so many places, including the bikes.

Here's a favorite image of mine from last year when a stage came through town.
Pentax K-x & Rokinon 8mm f/3.5 fisheye

IMGP2214.jpg by MattB.net, on Flickr

It was a finalist for this year's poster but didn't win (damn).

[Chris350]

Duplicate post..

[Chris350]

Bob:
Have a look at the EXIF data I posted with those two photos the ISO and exposure data there is a good place to start. Let the flash do it's thing. One thing I do know with the SB600 is that it is somewhat underpowered. It doesn't throw quite as far as one would expect it to. I use an SB800 because it displays the effective distance it will cover at a given exposure setting. My backup is an SB600 it will work but takes a bit more trial and error. The huge benefit of fill in cycling is as you said, light under helmet shadows, and the ability to shoot into the sun more so you're not limited by where the sun is on the course. You can also light up the eyes (catch light) when shooting closeups. Try it at high speeds too, all the benefits of secondary light are still there. Beware of Auto FP (Nikon's high speed sync set up) It radically cuts your effective light. The SB600 is really affected by this. Use the fastest normal sync speed you can. The SB800 makes better use of the Auto FP sync speeds.

Setups? I love corners where you can pan through as they go around you. I also have learned to pull back or push forward when the action doesn't move at that happy perpendicular lie. Shoot with both eyes open it helps with tracking motion. Also use your wide angle, and get close. This works nicely in corners when the action goes around in front of you instead of straight past as it does on a straight section.

At 5fps you're only going to get one flash per burst unless you invest in external batteries (large investment more to carry, all the pros use em). The onboard AA's don't cycle fast enough. The plus side? You will learn to see the shot as it happens, and hit the release more consistently. Your pans become much better too, knowing you're going to try to hit the shot in one frame. I honestly rrarley shoot faster than 3fps, and frequently just one frame. At crits they go by for an hour so if you miss one set up wait it out and shoot it next lap. The good news is you're rarely gonna loss your light since the race is almost always at mid day.

That said... Experiment with those settings Then find the exposure compensation control for the flash so you adjust the effective range. You'll find that with the SB-600 you may need to open up about 1.2 stop or so to get the best illumination. That is best accomplished with EC. There is a fair amount of trial and error involved in getting it right. Thankfully we're not blowing film to learn any more.

Matt:
To get qualified on a moto you need to be working for a media outlet. Then you need to get credentialed by the race organizer. There's a pecking order. The established guys get the first shot at rides. The rest get to sort out the left overs. The bigger the race the more shooters there are. There are always more shooters than drivers. Most guys have their rides arranged before the season even starts. I've already applied to all the races I intend to cover this year. You need to make sure you are good and comfortable looking the wrong way for most of a day while someone drives you around in the most chaotic traffic situation imaginable. It's not for the faint of heart.

Buy your own helmet.

Start small, talk to the moto refs and USAC officials at local races and see who (if anyone) might be willing to get you your first ride. It helps immensely to know promotors. Show your face at every possible race. That way organizers, officials, and the like, get know you, and understand you're serious about the work. work as many big races as you can to get to know the regulars. It helps if they also know you're not just some yahoo that wants to ride around a race. There is an entire set of etiquette that goes with the territory and to learn it you need to be around the race media scene.

Most importantly, when (if) you do get your first ride make sure your driver is 100% comfortable with you as a 2 up. If your driver says you're scary you're unlikely to get another ride. Photographers build a reputation with drivers very quickly. My first driver said "You scare me and you're walking". It's 100% a team effort. Driver and shooter have to be watching everything at once and getting your shots. I was lucky my first times out I was able to work with the same promotor and same driver for 7 or 8 days over three races in one season. .

[Bob32]

Chris,

There is hardly any EXIF data included with the two photos you posted! Please advise the data I need to know.

Only one flash per burst! Ouch! I was afraid that that might be the case. I won't be buying any external batteries. Pro photogs tend to be pack mules!

EC = ?

I'm not surprised to learn that there is a bit of fiddling to be done to get the correct settings.

Bob

[Chris350]

Chris,

There is hardly any EXIF data included with the two photos you posted! Please advise the data I need to know.

Only one flash per burst! Ouch! I was afraid that that might be the case. I won't be buying any external batteries. Pro photogs tend to be pack mules!

EC = ?

I'm not surprised to learn that there is a bit of fiddling to be done to get the correct settings.

Bob

I included the basic exposure info, Shutter, ISO and Aperture whether the flash fired and Camera Mode. That's really all you need.
EC = Exposure Compensation.
One flash per burst means you learn to see the image in camera better. It's a training tool.
As I said most of the conditions are not going to change from lap to lap so catching every single possible frame on each pass isn't necessary. Also you soon learn that one rider looks about the same as another in the frame. Unless you are on assignment and need a specific rider.

[Bob32]

Chris,

Thanks again for the follow-up information.

For both photos I used an EXIF viewer which doesn't show the information you list below the photos and which I now note that you have labelled Basic EXIF.

Call me a skeptic, but I'm not sure I buy the training tool bit! It's been my experience that when you shoot a burst there's almost always one frame that stands out above the rest. Therefore, I'd prefer a flash for every frame, but am not about to invest in a pricey external battery.

What's this about one rider looks about the same as another in the frame? Each looks distinctive to me! That's why I was very picky in deciding which of the five rider images to post out of the scores I had to choose from.

If and when I decide to use fill flash for cycling races I'll definitely have to review some flash basics. It's such a long time between flash uses for me that I forget a lot of the little I know about it by the time I eventually drag out the flash to use it again!

Bob

[Chris350]

...
Call me a skeptic, but I'm not sure I buy the training tool bit! It's been my experience that when you shoot a burst there's almost always one frame that stands out above the rest. Therefore, I'd prefer a flash for every frame, but am not about to invest in a pricey external battery.

What's this about one rider looks about the same as another in the frame? Each looks distinctive to me! That's why I was very picky in deciding which of the five rider images to post out of the scores I had to choose from.
...
Bob

After shooting for 5 years and as many races as I have, I can see that one image that I want and thus no longer pick through "scores" of options. As I mentioned, I'm usually looking for a specific individuals or teams when I'm working which leads one to more judicious in their shooting.

One developes a sense of where to frame the background and where the rider will enter and exit the frame to ge the best result. I believe I said lots of trial and error. I also think that if I don't come back from a shoot thinking there was something I could have seen better, or if there wasn't something I learned, I'm not doing it right. This should never be easy. In cycling there are thousands of people with cameras all trying to be the next Graham Watson by imitating Graham Watson.

[wfooshee]

I used my 70-300 VR for my Sebring shots and was quite happy. I never thought to experiment with turning VR off. I did find after using it at an air show that I wanted to turn "Active" off. Before reading the manual, I assumed "Active" meant moving subject, and it turns out it does not. It means moving photographer, as in riding in a vehicle while shooting. The manual further states that the VR goes into a vertical-only mode while panning, so as to not interfere with your horizontal panning efforts. I think having it in "active" at the air show is why I didn't like those shots so much. (Dang manuals, always full of useful information!)

I used 1/250 for most of those at Sebring, with a few at 1/125. Of course, the cars are a little quicker than bicycles!

[Bob32]

wfooshee,

As is frequently stated: "If all else fails read the instruction book!"

With my 70-300 VR I hardly ever turn VR on. That's because I'm usually shooting sports events with it at 1/500 minimum.

You might want to go to Tom Hogan's website (bythom.com) and read his article titled "All About VR." I found it to be very instructive. Here's the first line in his article:

"The first and most important rule of VR is this: never turn VR on unless it's actually needed."

I like the 70-300 VR a lot. Considering it's great performance and modest price it's a steal! And it's a lot easier to lug around than the 80-200 f/2.8 which I also own.

Cheers.

Bob

[Ti.P]

play with different settings, use flash if you can!

[Photo-John]

play with different settings, use flash if you can!

Welcome, Ti! Good to see you here! Show off your photos. I know you've got a lot of good stuff and some knowledge to share

[Ti.P]

Sure! I need to do 4 more posts