scanning slides- #1

[tramp]

i have been scanning slides with a nikon ls-40, then "optimizing" them in tiff format in ps 6.0. then converting them to jpeg 12 [maximum resolution], then burning them to cd'r. i eventually will have Shutterfly make 4x6 prints from them. questions-
1- after i have made a jpeg 12 photo file and i want to change color balance,curves, levels, or contrast [one or any combination of these] does it "hurt" the image quality? or, is it best to convert this jpeg 12 photo file back to a tiff, "manipulate" there, then convert "it" back again to a jpeg 12 again?
2- if one starts out with a tiff file [29mb] then converts it to a jpeg 12 file [10mb], THEN converts THAT back to a tiff [29mb] file - how can one "pick up" mb's when it initially went from 29mb to 10 mb's? can one "gain" mb's once the're reduced? is the 2nd tiff identical in "quality" to the first one?
3- when one "crops" a photo file at a 4x6 size , does that take care of "image sizing" it?or does it still have to be run thru "image size" to acheive a 4x6 in going to print?
4- thanks-

tramp

[racingpinarello]

For starters, scan your slide at the highest setting that you will use. If you are scanning for a 8x12 or maybe larger, then scan for that output. I usually scan my slides for at least 13x20 for 35mm, and 16x20 for 6x7 negatives.

Scan into a tiff format file and then save it as a raw file. Do all of your manipulation to a copy, and when you are happy with that image save it as a final copy tiff. Then, and only then, should you convert it to a jpg at a 4x6 size, and then another tiff to jpb to web size.

I would never go from Tiff to Jpg back to Tiff since you will lose quality.


Loren

[remoteplaces]

I agree with Lorens comments, although when I scan I typicaly do not save the TIFF scans to RAW format. I don;t know of any advantages to doing this, but I am not very familar with the RAW format. Here is my workflow. I use a Nikon 4000ED scanner:

- scan at highest res (4000 dpi), bit depth (14 bit), x2 passes, and save at TIFF. This yeilds 125 meg images.
- I then label each image, embed keywords, copyright info, descriptions etc.
- Using a p'shop action, I then convert these (as a batch process) large TIFFs to smaller TIFFs, about 30 megs: change size to 12 in wide @ 300dpi and 8 bit.
- I then create a web album.
- I burn the 125 meg TIFFs to a DVD with the web album.
- I delete the 125 TIFF folder from the HD and use the 30 meg TIFFs and web album. Web album to quickly view files, and 30 meg TIFFs as the working images for some less demanding applications.

A few cautions: if you manipulate 8 bit files by changing levels etc, you may get spiked histograms and possible color banding. Its better to convert the 8 bit images to 16 bit, do changes and manipulation, then as a last step convert back to 8 bit if you need to. I generally try to work with the large 125 meg TIFFs for anything that will prined large size or for publication. The 30 meg TIFFS print great up to 12x8 and smaller and are fine for any web stuff.

Use jpegs as the last step, and only if you need to. That is, once you have done everything you want to do with the image, convert to jpeg.

[remoteplaces]

One last comment, when you resize, don't crop to resize, unless you have entered crop settings (size and resolution). Resize your image under "image size" and enter resolution and a length or width. Crop to "recompose" or get the desired aspect ration for print.

[tramp]

One last comment, when you resize, don't crop to resize, unless you have entered crop settings (size and resolution). Resize your image under "image size" and enter resolution and a length or width. Crop to "recompose" or get the desired aspect ration for print.

i'll put my question another way on my jpeg 12 files that i plan to have 4x6 prints made from by Shutterfly. i ONLY have jpeg 12 files to have printed. i discarded their orginal tiff files after they were "manipulated" in ps 6.0. in my "reviewing" these jpeg 12 files i see that some were not "accurately" manipulated in tiff and now need to have further "manipulation" [such as color correction, or exposure changed by means of curves or levels] for them to look there best before going to print. so what do you recommend i do? should i go ahead and apply the needed "corrections" to the present jpeg 12 file itself, or what? if possible i want to come out with the best image i can. .
the reason there was not "accurate" manipulation on some of them is that 2 1/2 years ago i started out "green" on computers, film scanners and ps 6.0. after scanning/manipulating 4,000 slides i essentially "learned" as i went along and in "reviewing" these i now see that some were not manipulated "accurately".
please advise-

thank you-

tramp

[Franglais]

i have been scanning slides with a nikon ls-40, then "optimizing" them in tiff format in ps 6.0. then converting them to jpeg 12 [maximum resolution], then burning them to cd'r. i eventually will have Shutterfly make 4x6 prints from them. questions-
1- after i have made a jpeg 12 photo file and i want to change color balance,curves, levels, or contrast [one or any combination of these] does it "hurt" the image quality? or, is it best to convert this jpeg 12 photo file back to a tiff, "manipulate" there, then convert "it" back again to a jpeg 12 again?
2- if one starts out with a tiff file [29mb] then converts it to a jpeg 12 file [10mb], THEN converts THAT back to a tiff [29mb] file - how can one "pick up" mb's when it initially went from 29mb to 10 mb's? can one "gain" mb's once the're reduced? is the 2nd tiff identical in "quality" to the first one?
3- when one "crops" a photo file at a 4x6 size , does that take care of "image sizing" it?or does it still have to be run thru "image size" to acheive a 4x6 in going to print?
4- thanks-

tramp

I'm surprised nobody has suggested this. Perhaps I'm missing something here..

Your LS-40 (aka Coolscan IV) can adjust colour balance, curves, levels and contrast during the scan. As it's working on the 12-bit source signal the result is going to be better than anything you do on an 8-bit TIFF or JPEG or whatever.

I now do almost all my cropping and image adjustment in the scanner and produce a 2-4MB JPG final file directly. I only use Photshop if I'm desperate.

Charles

[remoteplaces]

Tramp, to answer your question. If you only have the jpeg.......decide if further manipulation is essential. If it is try this: convert to a 16 bit TIFF (which I think is actually really 15 bit), do all your manipulations, then save back to a jpeg for printing. This will minimize image deterioration caused by some manipulations. If you have prized images, and you still have the negs/slides, rescan them.

Charles, why is performing manipulations during the scan preferable to photoshop? Presumably, the manipulations you set are software based. In other words, the machine scans, then software makes the changes. I don't think there are any hardware adjustments made. How is this superior to performing a scan (16 bit TIFF) then manipulating in p'shop? The outcomes would depend on the quality of the software? I would like to see any side by side comparisons you migth have.