Need nikon replacement camera

[another view]

Wow - how do I follow that!? First off Seb really knows his stuff, but don't tell him I said so or he'll get an ego. Here's my take:

Getting a DSLR is like opening Pandora's box. If you don't want to deal with any computer related stuff (probably not the case or you wouldn't be here), then it's not for you. You'll learn things like not sharpening in the camera to have more flexibility later with Photoshop, etc. Of course, you're setting yourself up for doing more work but getting better results. Essentially, you become your own lab. I don't make my own prints, but shoot, edit and prepare the files in Photoshop, then burn a CD. The lab doesn't do anything to my files other than print them - no "optimization", etc. Works out good for me for not having to own and maintain a nice printer, but some day I'll have to get one. I will tell you that I've probably paid for my Fuji S2 in film and processing costs since I got it last August - plus the benefits from instant feedback but that's enough of that story... But, by the time I add in all the money I've spent on compact flash cards, Photoshop CS, Monaco Optix monitor calibration software, etc - I don't know if that holds up.

Compact flash cards are necessary, they're essentially "digital film". It's what your images are recorded on. I personally use 512mb cards (you can download a card and burn directly to a CD), but it depends on how you shoot as far as how many and how big they need to be for your situation. A typical day's worth of shooting capacity is usually fine, but what about vacation for a week? Something to think about. With digital, it's all up-front costs.

The D70 is compatible with the SB50DX, but not the most current flash system they offer. Nikon's newest iTTL flash system looks pretty good, but you'd need an SB-600 or SB-800 with a D70 or D2H to use it. With a D70 and SB50DX, you might get the best results shooting in "A" mode on the flash, nothing to do with TTL. Books could be written about this, but it seems to be the concensus.

For film cameras, you can spend A LOT less up front and get a really nice camera. How many rolls a month do you shoot? How big are your prints? How fast do you need them? These are all questions to ask. I don't have any personal experience with the N65, N75 and N80, although my Fuji S2 is built on an N80 body (sort of franken-camera).

We just need to get you out of auto mode once in a while...

[RachelleFav]

He he. Y'all are wealth of information! Boy do I ever need to get out of auto mode but by the time I get my pictures back I don't remember what I did! It'd be nice to "see" what I take before sending it off for developing. Thus...digital might be good. The camera and lens itself seem to be somewhat affordable but then you add the flash card, etc. and it gets pricey. How many pictures does the 256 and 512 cards hold. I typically develop 4x6 pics. Is that one you mean? Does the camera reformat them once you've gotten them backed up? I would love to take lots of pictures each month but I typically take about 2 rolls per month now because I was getting out of hand for a while there. I just dropped off four rolls yesterday. Turnaround time isn't a big deal. So you just bring a cd to the store and they print them up? Would a typical store do this or only specialty stores? I do have a cd burner and using a computer isn't a hassle for me. I use it quite often. Is the software that comes with the camera typically sufficient for photo editing for a beginner? What is the Monaco Optix monitor calibration software that you mentioned?

[another view]

Glad to help. Here goes -

Usually you'd probably shoot jpeg files, fine mode (this could start a war though - there are a lot of ways to do it). If you did this, you'd get about 200 shots on a 512 card (6mp camera) or 100 on a 256. Rough numbers but should be within 10%. Shooting the highest resolution and least compression will keep the options open later if you want a big print, and as you can see you can still fit a lot of these images on a card. I've got a couple of 16x24's here that look that they were taken on medium format film by doing this (and some simple things later in Photoshop). My Fuji is also a 6mp DSLR, so you shouldn't have any problem with this on a D70.

The camera doesn't automatically reformat the card, but it's a very good idea to do it every time you download.

How much do you pay per exposure for film & processing? You can figure out how many shots would equal $1500 and then estimate how long it takes to take that many shots - but this isn't the only reason to go (or not) digital.

For usual stuff and small prints, I go to a local place that has a Fuji Frontier minilab. They have them at WalMart too. Bring the CD to the self-service kiosk, order the prints and pick up next day (at least at this place). Their prints are less expensive and look better than doing it myself, plus I don't have to buy and maintain a printer. Works for me.

Any digital camera will come with image editing software. A good one to use is Adobe Photoshop Elements ($99 I think) - you may eventually want to move up to the full version of Photoshop CS and if you're familiar with Elements, you'll have a big head start.

Monaco Optix (there are others too) is a monitor calibration package. A calibrated monitor insures (theoretically) that the monitor is displaying colors correctly. IOW, you edit an image in Photoshop until you get it where you want it. You know it looks right because you're looking at it on the monitor. Better be sure the monitor is displaying everything correctly or your print might not be what you see on the monitor. Don't worry about this yet, it's not essential to getting started but a good thing to do at some point.

[Sebastian]

Steve covered mostly everything. Those little kiosks do a great job at 4x6 prints, and they do it cheaper than I can at home. As for editing software, I think the D100 came with Elements, but I'm not 100% on that. Not sure what the D70 comes with.

I love the idea of doing the math for how much you pay in developing and film. It's an up-front expense, but it might be worth it.

[RachelleFav]

I have another question for you. I am looking at the D70's online and several online stores offer them at various prices. I am a little uneasy ordering from just anywhere though some have lower prices than others. Do you know much about the Sigma 28-80mm Autofocus Lens and the same 70-300 mm Lens? Ritz camera offers a package with both lenses and the camera body. I had thought it best to stay with Nikon brand lenses for the best results...is this true? I totally agree that in the long run I would save lots of money going digital since most of my pictures are of my children and 80% of them don't come out anyway. I just have to convince my husband of this. I'm fighting a hard battle!!! Do you know if you can immediately delete an image if you don't like it directly with the camera?

[another view]

Buy it from a reputable place, and make sure to get a "US" version or you'll be on your own when it comes to service - Nikon won't touch grey market stuff. Should cost abou $1k for the body alone. Some stores might have a grey market version for a little less money but on a DSLR I wouldn't risk it personally.

I don't have experience with those lenses but you might check the reviews here. There are a lot of good 3rd party lenses, I've got a Tokina that I've made some big prints with and they look great. And yes, you can immediately delete a shot (but since it's hard to tell from the small LCD monitor I wouldn't do it unless you're sure).

[RachelleFav]

Do you have any particular with online dealers? B & H is currently out of stock. We are going out of town next weekend so whataver I get be it digital or perhaps an N80 I don't want to wait. Have you found it necessary to buy service agreements with products. I'm not sure of maintenance costs on these things. I have one digital camera that I've had for three years with no trouble and the door on my nikon broke after two years but I don't think that would have been much trouble to replace. Thanks for the information.

[Sebastian]

Do you have any particular with online dealers? B & H is currently out of stock. We are going out of town next weekend so whataver I get be it digital or perhaps an N80 I don't want to wait. Have you found it necessary to buy service agreements with products. I'm not sure of maintenance costs on these things. I have one digital camera that I've had for three years with no trouble and the door on my nikon broke after two years but I don't think that would have been much trouble to replace. Thanks for the information.

http://www.samys.com/

http://www.penncamera.com/

http://www.calumetphoto.com

[RachelleFav]

I appreciate the links.

[another view]

B & H is currently out of stock. We are going out of town next weekend so whataver I get be it digital or perhaps an N80 I don't want to wait. Have you found it necessary to buy service agreements with products. I'm not sure of maintenance costs on these things. I have one digital camera that I've had for three years with no trouble and the door on my nikon broke after two years but I don't think that would have been much trouble to replace. Thanks for the information.

I usually go to B&H because they're very good about shipping quickly and having most things in stock. With something new like the D70, since the whole world shops there, the waiting lists tend to be about a mile long. You might get it just in time for Christmas. Try the ones Seb suggested, or some here have said that the Ritz stores stock the D70. You shouldn't have any trouble finding an N80 or N75 though.

I don't buy service agreements but some people do, personal preference. I've never needed them (knock on formica covered particleboard). If something goes wrong with a D70 it's likely to be pretty expensive to fix, but like I said go with the US version or the little bit of money saved by buying it that way will make it unrepairable.

[RachelleFav]

Charles, what are the main differences between the three cameras you mentioned? There are so many to chose from!

I've also been very pleased withe B & H. I've gotten some accessories there for my N65 and they were quite speedy with delivery. I really fear not buying an extended warranty or service agreement but I've read that warranties are a waste of money...not sure on camera equipment. I'd hate for such an expensive camera to break!

[Franglais]

Charles, what are the main differences between the three cameras you mentioned? There are so many to chose from!

I've also been very pleased withe B & H. I've gotten some accessories there for my N65 and they were quite speedy with delivery. I really fear not buying an extended warranty or service agreement but I've read that warranties are a waste of money...not sure on camera equipment. I'd hate for such an expensive camera to break!

Let's start from the N65 that you already know.

- It has P/A/S/M modes where the parameters are modified with a single knurled dial under your right thumb. This is rather clumsy in M mode where you have two parameters to modify (aperture and shutter speed), because you have to press on an additional button to switch from one to another.
- It also has lots of subject program modes which I never use
- Focussing zone selection is controlled by yet another button with the knurled dial. This is really clumsy
- If you want to turn off the focus assist light (which I always do because I don't want my subjects to see me) then you have to either press yet another button or else choose a subject program mode
- You can't set the ISO setting manually. You can just tell the camera to over or under expose
- There are no programmable settings
- There is no 3D TTL flash in some circumstances (I forget which ones)
- The metering system is fairly accurate (only)

Now the N80:

- Two knurled dials so controlling aperture and shutter speed is natural
- Joggle pad on the back to control focussing zone assist (with focussing zone visible in the viewfinder)
- Lots of programmable settings including one to turn off the focus assist permanently
- Full control over the ISO settings
- 3D TTL flash all the time
- 3 metering modes
- Focus hold button
- No subject program modes
- Very accurate metering system

And the N75:

- All the advantages of the N80 mentioned above except only one knurled dial & metering system (*)
- The Subject Program modes from the N65 if you really like that sort of thing
- An extra focussing mode
- Cheaper & lighter than either the N80 or N65
- Slower film wind-on than either N80 or N65
- Smaller viewfinder

Overall the N75 comes out as a really good deal. The N65 is frustrating for serious work. The F80 is nice but much more expensive.

No idea about extended warranties. I don't use them. If I break the camera I buy another one.

Charles

(* Edited 15/5. Checked out the knurled dials & spotmetering found - they don't exist on the N75. If ytou have something really difficult to do where you need the utmost control then take the N80)

[RachelleFav]

More great information. There are so many to chose from. I am leaning towards the D70 or the N75 or N80. The prices on the N75 and N80 are really good now and the D70 outfit seems a bit hard to find. I typically don't get warranties either and have been lucky so far but with such an expensive piece of equipment as the D70 I'm a bit afraid. Thanks again!!!