custom frame and mat

[kafin8ed]

This isn't for a photo but I just got a fine art print that I want to frame, it's 30x40 and needs to be mounted and matted plus framed under glass so what are my options aside from $300+ for a custom jobby? Anyone have experience doing this themself? I can't screw this up, the piece is unique and valuable. Any options?

[natatbeach]

This isn't for a photo but I just got a fine art print that I want to frame, it's 30x40 and needs to be mounted and matted plus framed under glass so what are my options aside from $300+ for a custom jobby? Anyone have experience doing this themself? I can't screw this up, the piece is unique and valuable. Any options?

Depending on the theme and style of the poster and the look you want to go for-- sandwiching it between acrylic is probaby your best bet financially...acrylic is a lot less expensive than glass/frame method.

If it's valuable(monetary) like you said DO NOT let anyone tell you to drymount it --although this is the best way to set it up for longevity it isn't the best option for value becuase it is a permanent process and alters the condition ( don't let anyone tell you any different)

If it is sentimental value I strongly suggest you dry mount it to keep it from curling or warping over time.

If something that unique and valuable, I would invest the money. There's nothing better than putting the money out to a piece of art that will last you...painful when you dish out the cash but well worth it in the end.

ALWAYS make sure they use ACID FREE mats and if they do a museum mount (only uses a few hinges at the top of the piece (never along the sides) using tape---make sure that ALL of their materials are acid free...and be very specific about how rare and valuable the piece is. one way to check if they use acid free mats is to look at their samples if there is any yellowish or brownish discoloration on the bevel(edge) of the mat---it ISN'T acid free.. acid free mats/or materials will NEVER discolor.

It's hard to give you specifics with such little info...if you feel like giving more info regarding subject and style of print and style and decor and where it's going sort of thing---be glad to shoot out more ideas. BTW I get my info from being certified in custom framing and doing it for two and half years...

Hope this helps a little

[b_slow]

You probably want to check out http://www.framesbymail.com

They've got lots of different styles of frames and mattes (you may want to purchase your matte in person though, for color matching purposes), and their prices are WAY below what you'd normally pay. I know that they sell polycarbonate, but I'm not sure about glass. If they don't, you'd have to get some glass cut somewhere else, but shopping here will still save you a lot of money.

[kafin8ed]

Natalie, Thanks! i was hoping someone here knew about that stuff. about the only tricky thing I can think of regarding the piece is it has a, i think it's called a dappled (?) edge or something like that, all around it and so I think it'd look good with that edge exposed instead of covered by the mat. The piece is a print collage made my an artist name Shepard Fairey who I have been following lately. I've attatched a photo of the same piece framed at his exhibit last fall to show what I want...just a simple black frame and some matting the print does the rest. The big issue is it's huge 30x40, I'm pretty sure I want it under glass too, the other issue is it's all rolled up right now and the print is on super thick paper so flattening it out may be a pain but I don't know?
-Alan

[another view]

Awhile back, Photo John (think it was him anyway) posted something about American Frame. I bought a couple of frames from them last month and it was quick, easy and cheap - definately use them again. Buy the glass locally from a glass dealer, my 22x32 single strength were about $13 each.

American Frame has info on their website about archival methods for framing. Basically you make a cloth hinge from the tape that they recommend (Light Impressions also has it). The big deal about doing it this way is that it can be un-done which dry mounting cannot (like Natalie mentioned). I do have one piece that's framed like you mention - it's in a Neilsen shadowbox frame. Had it long enough to not remember the profile number, but it's about 24x36 and a little over an inch deep. The print is attached like mentioned above (only in two places at the top) to a piece of thick mat board which is about 2" bigger all the way around than the print, and the mat slides into a channel towards the back of the frame (about 1/2" - 3/4" air space between print and glass). Hope this helps, here's the link:

http://www.americanframe.com/

[natatbeach]

30" x 40" is not too big

the framing site that bslow suggested was very reasonable---a 36 by 46" frame (black wood was only $50- wow. http://www.framesbymail.com/cgi-bin/frames_custom

few more thoughts...you may definitely want to stick to acrylic (plexiglass) if you want a frame that's that thin for a piece that big...between the weight of the glass and the matboard, foamcore for stability...way too much work for a thin moulding to withstand the weight over time.

anotherview's advice for a separate mat that slips into or is attached to the other is a great idea as well... even just attaching a slightly smaller matboard (29 x39) leaves just enough of the exposed edge to be able to allow the deckled edge of the print to be seen...attach that to a larger ( 36x46) centered and slip it into the frame

and make sure they use (or you get) things called spacers (thin skinny pieces made of a hard acrylic that attach to the glass around the perimeter or in this case the plexi and give it about 1/8 of an inch of breathing room--get 1/4 inch depth ones if you can....between the print and the plexi (this allows some air circulation and if you ever get condensation won't allow the piece to stick to the glass) they also hold the plexi in place against the matboardhttp://www.framesbymail.com/supplies3.html

(yeah that can happen and it's sucks!--speaking from personal experience)

last but not least make sure if you secure or ask a framer to secure the wire for hanging --in a triangular shape with the hook eyes 1/3 of the way down on the vertical and 1/3 of the way on the bottom horizontal(this gives the thinner frame support as it hangs and keeps the bottom moulding from bearing all the weight.


all this sounds like a lot but it's pretty simple...just find a reputable framer and have them show you all the stuff--- maybe even talk to a gallery and see who they go thru...

BTW beautiful piece of art...I'm jealous...

[SHbaker11]

I did also have some special projects before that gave me a headache on how would i do the framing and all,until I found this custom matboard BDmatboard did all the work for me that doesn't hurt my pocket. Hope this could help you.

[freygr]

Matte Board comes in two sizes, standard size 32 by 40 or large 60 x 40 ?? (I'm not sure of the size)

Tools Logan ruler 40" with two cutters:
1) Logan's Model 701 is a pull-style straight cutter, with a textured rubber handle. It cuts precise 90° edges
2) Series 3000 pull-style bevel cutter has a fingertip operated, pivoting blade holder. or Series 2000 — The 2000 push-style cutter with retractable blade features a start-and-stop indicator for accurate corners. Personally I like the 2000.

Plus you need some replacement blades. You cut the mat-board from the back side and you use pencils to layout the cuts. I use foam board as the backing material. I use a scrap piece as the subbase to cut the board to size. You use scrap pieces of mat-board when the bevel cutter is used to cut the opening in the mat-board for the picture. You DO need to overrun the corner to make sure it's a clean cut (not alot 1/16 to 1/4 inch).