NEED help with flash specs on Wedding in two days

[natatbeach]

O.k. so I'm freaking out and I'm not sure why I like or even want to do weddings...but anyway.. here's the deal:

I am using the D70 and an my new SB800 ---I don't know what I'm doing still and trying to figure this out. so I figured instead of looking stupid because the wedding pictures turn out like crap ...I would suck it up and look stupid here asking these questions.
All the info on the flash is still relatively bizarro to me (never worked with a flash this capable before) So my question is in a situation like the one here (see pictures below) what setting should I have my camera set at? and the flash?

I had the camera set at ISO 1000 , 1/60, f/5 , 35mm

I had the flash set at TTL , +1/3 EV, the middle numbers read 3.1- 35ft..and it was angled at a 45 degree angle with the diffuser on..

The place has about 7.5 foot ceilngs(tan drop ceilings) with about a million directional lights going every which way and wall mirrors EVERYWHERE (so trying to find a vantage point where there isn't a giant flaash in the background is really "special"

so what should my settings be? in order to insure a consistent lighting situation without it coming out too dark and without getting harsh crazy shadows...trying to read the manual but not yielding any results Thaks for ANY help.

[mdmc]

are you getting paid to do this wedding
do you have time to do more tests

[natatbeach]

are you getting paid to do this wedding
do you have time to do more tests

oh yes I'm getting paid for this wedding---it's the second paid and third if you count a frined's wedding...unfortunately the place is closed today/ tomorrow and will not be open till the day of the wedding. The reception location (upstairs ball room) has beautiful light and so does the dressing area where the group shots will be...

I guess I could go and do some test shots the morning of...but I'd rather have an idea ahead of time of what range of specs I'm looking at--- to not blindly fumble...although I guess I could fumble gracefully.
;)

[mdmc]

whats youre main concern
the oicts arent great but the light looks even
more to follow

[mdmc]

get the plants out of the way
use a reflector i.e white card attatched to flash head to give fill and catch light
OR get a flash bracket and get the flassh approx 10 inches above the lens and soften thelight with a lumiquest type soft box or bouncer

[another view]

Great articles here, especially the 2nd and 3rd:

http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/jt000.html

With a low, almost-white ceiling you can bounce the flash. If the ceiling isn't pure white it's still OK as long as it's close, and the color tint is a little warm because that color will be reflected. You wouldn't do this with a green ceiling (for example) - because you'd have a greenish color cast on the bride's face! Also, it needs to be white (or again, close to it) or it won't reflect much light. Aim the light to hit the ceiling half-way between you and the subject. This will especially help with the camera turned to vertical if you don't have a flash bracket, because it will make an even bigger difference on the shadows. With TTL flash, you shouldn't have to compensate the flash exposure, but I don't know that system. If you were using an Auto mode (not TTL) then you'd have to open up about 1-1/2 stops to compensate for the light loss and extra distance that the light has to travel. This will take experimenting to know for sure.

The top of the flash head should have a pull-out bounce card. On my older SB28, it's a thin white piece of plastic that pulls out, about 1" high x 2" wide. Use that with bounce flash for a little more "punch", which works well with the softness of bounce flash. It will also give you a catchlight in the eyes.

I'd be nervous about a "+" compensation on the flash with digital. I don't have that set-up, but highlights can easily be blown out on digital - especially on a bride's white dress.

ISO1000? I use ISO400 and f5.6 or f8. At 1000, you need very little power from the flash, but what you've got will easily handle more than the settings I use. Carry extra batteries though. Down the road you may want Nikon's additional battery pack (about $150) which will last several hundred shots and you won't have to worry about any recycle time.

Good you noted all of the directional lights - they can give you problems with flare and also throw exposure off. Matrix metering is pretty good at ignoring one bright light in a scene, but not perfect. This is turning into a book... Let me know if any other questions and I'll try to help!

[another view]

You know, I'm not too sure about bouncing light off a ceiling that low. It's great on 10' ceilings, but that's so low that you'll have to be extra careful that the flash is aimed halfway between you and your subject. Because of the short distance, the light doesn't get a chance to spread out as much. It will still be a huge difference over direct flash, but you'll have to pay more attention to it.

The diffuser - is that a plastic dome that pushes on over the top? Might be best just to stick with that rather than switch between direct and bounce flash - the low ceiling is an advantage here.

[Rere15]

HI,
I have a D70 and a D100 and two SB800s. I use a stroboframe with the TTL remote cord SC-28. I know you can't get this before the wedding. So set your SB800 to TTLBL and I usually use the A mode, which lets me pick the aperture. With this setting (depending if you have a compatible lens), you will be able to get some good shots---but there is no way you will be able to avoid shadows. Try to have the subjects away from the background if possible. I''ve done numerous test with the diffuser, bouncing with the attached white card, etc., and haven't had good results. You need all the light you can get. This speedlight isn't capable of giving you studio quality photos-it just isn't big enough. I did buy studio lights for receptions, and every shoot I do that isn't action or the actual wedding ceremony, etc. and it makes a world of difference. For now, set the speedlight, put your camera in the A mode, and put the aperture at at least 10 or 12-depending what kind of depth-of-field you want. And if you are shooting groups, make sure it's set high enough that everyone will be in focus.
One thing that is good is you have your moniter screen on the back of the camera to check for lighting etc. Also, don't delete any of the pictures during the actual shoot or the photos will be out of sequence. This may not make any difference to you, but I sometimes show clients pictures on a portable LCD TV, and I want the numbers to be the same as what they have ordered--for that reason, I don't use the card reader to download--only the camera. By the way, Nikon Capture is real nice, because you can show clients the photos on your computer before they are downloaded--but I haven't figured out how to get the numbers to correspond to the numbers to the camera numbers. With a TV, all the numbers are the same.
Good luck and don't worry--just check your LCD screen on the back of the camera, and realize that the picture will usually not be as light and bright as it looks there.
Rere

[Rere15]

Hi again,
Forgot to tell you, make sure you use autofocus to focus. You will get much better results for this.
Rere

[Trevor Ash]

Would you say that the lighting is fairly even for this particular room? If so, for this particular room (I shoot canon mind you) I'd shoot in manual mode and set the exposure to allow the amount of ambient light I want in the photo while retaining a suitable shutter speed and ISO. Then I'd leave the flash (once again, canon equipment so be careful with what I tell you in case there's incompatibilities or something else I woudln't know of) on E-TTL (or TTL) using FEL and flash compensation as necessary for posed shots.

I agree about the low celing being a concern for bouncing off of it. I can guarantee you that this is a case where I'd pull out the stofen omni-bounce and tilt the flash head 45 degrees. A lot of camera stores carry these things now. You can also try the bouncers that look like a baseball mitt where you point the flash straight up and the "mitt" reflects it back at the subject.

What were the exposure settings for that second photo? That one is getting kind of close to the ratio of flash/ambient that I'd probably be trying to get. Check the exif of that photo for the shutter/aperture and use that as your guide in determining if you'll get away with larger aperture, lower ISO, etc. Then when you get back to the place for the wedding you can sneak to the room and take a few test shots to confirm the shutter/aperture/ISO you hope to use.

And about the mirrors, just be aware of your position and angle relative to the walls and you'll be fine. Shoot everything at an angle to the walls in that room and only shoot perpendicular to a wall when you are able to take the time to ensure there's no mirror. I've been in rooms like you're talking about with mirros covering every square inch!

That's how I'd approach this problem

Good luck, looks like it'll be a rewarding job!

[natatbeach]

THANK YOU SO MUCH for all the advice and input...it really helps to construct a picture in my head. I learn thru explanation and hands on as opposed to reading a manual...so ALL the advice has been valuable to feel more secure...I will have about an hour between some portraits and the actual ceremony (for lunch) so I will use that time to figure out the situation.

Again, I appreciate the time that it took to explain everything out...too much info that seems like a "book" is wonderful. The time that goes into is greatly appreciated...will post on Monday...

;)

[Asylum Steve]

Man, I feel helpless when I see these kinds of posts. I do not shoot weddings and have no experience with the equipment nat mentioned. With the time frame nat gave, I felt she was, ya know, ON THE VERGE if someone didn't help out soon...

Anyway, I'm very impressed and pleased with the number of quick responses.

Thanks again!

[MJS]

One thing to keep in mind with the diffuser dome, it automatically sets your zoom on the flash to 17mm wide angle, (just the flash head, not the lens) so the the light will be wide, soft and not as powerful if you are shooting from a distance. If you cant't get any closer than 10-12 feet, don't bother messing with the diffuser or any bouncing, at that distance, the softness will be negated, shoot with the flash pointed right at the subject. The flash bracket and cord will help get rid of the red-eye and will drop the shadows down and behind the subject Have you tried putting on the extra battery compartment? It really does help recycle the flash faster. I would carry at least two full sets of spare batteries. Also, don't forget to get the spare CR2 batteries for the emergency camera battery holder, as a rule, the rechargeable battery always lasts right until they say "I do".

Good luck, with your eye the shots should be great.

[natatbeach]

zoom on the flash to 17mm wide angle, (just the flash head, not the lens)
I noticed that

cant't get any closer than 10-12 feet,
Sha! I noticed that too which is good because it's pretty close quarters all around from every angle

Have you tried putting on the extra battery compartment?
It really does help recycle the flash faster.

I didi and it really is remarkable...I've been shooting for five days about 15 shots or so and it's still going...

I would carry at least two full sets of spare batteries.
Also, don't forget to get the spare CR2 batteries for the emergency camera battery holder,

Best Buy and I are best friends tonight...I'm also picking up an extra memory card, extra batteries for the flash(16 pack and an extra battery for the camera. All approved by my accounting dpartment(hubby) ---- Just talked to the bride about an hour ago and showed her how badly the topiaries prevented the best pics possible---she said scrap the topiaries if I want or I could re-arrange the stage "foliage" anyway I wanted and I that they cared more about getting great shots of their day than not pissing of a guest because their vanatge point is blocked "They didn't pay for pictures we did" They are a great couple...and easy to work with.

Thanks for your speedy responses to everyone like Steve said and Thanks again...to all of you....and thanks for the encouraging words as well ;)

[natatbeach]

ON THE VERGE if someone didn't help out soon...

I could sleep last night because I was obsessing.... so I kinda was when I wrote it...

[davidpweis]

Hi,

First time poster here, and I'll try to help with my limited experience. Magic Lantern says you should set the flash mode to standard i-ttl by going M or setting going spot metering in P, A and S exposure modes.
I've tried the spot metering in A, and I've had consistant lighting. I've tried the other solutions in Matrixed mode, and had inconsistant results with the D70 and SB800.

Also, keep in mind that you use the AE-L/EF-L button to FV lock (Custom Setting 15) (Use spot metering). This will allow you to trigger the pre-flashes on your subject, lock them in while recomposing the subject. You'll see EL in the viewfinder. Sort of an exposure lock with Flash!

Good luck and I hope I was helpful

David

[natatbeach]

You should post more often....thanks...tried a few shots at home and you were very helpful...

you put the icing on the cake of info I had...thanks for coming on and posting...well worth it---welcome aboard!!!!
;)

[natatbeach]

get the plants out of the way
use a reflector i.e white card attatched to flash head to give fill and catch light

good ideas here's the result....