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  1. #1
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    set your shutter at max sync125th probably,let camera pick aperture,adjust light accordingly,bouncing,ceiling ect.this will work until you get a meter,i ues a mikolta iv f .make sure you get a F model,so you can work with flash and strobes.then you will want to work with meter.bracketing frames helps alsoi.problem with camera ttl metering is it goes by what the lense is bouncing off of.bright or dull objects will over and under expose flesh tones.
    freelance1031@aol.com
    WHY CANT WE ALL ,JUST GET ALONG!!

  2. #2
    Moderator Irakly Shanidze's Avatar
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    you must be joking. one cannot use any automatic exposure mode with studio strobes. the only way to work without a flash meter is to set the sync speed and manually adjust aperture using camera LCD as a control. Not very handy, not very precise, but usable as the last resort.

    Quote Originally Posted by FREELANCE2004
    set your shutter at max sync125th probably,let camera pick aperture,adjust light accordingly,bouncing,ceiling ect.this will work until you get a meter,i ues a mikolta iv f .make sure you get a F model,so you can work with flash and strobes.then you will want to work with meter.bracketing frames helps alsoi.problem with camera ttl metering is it goes by what the lense is bouncing off of.bright or dull objects will over and under expose flesh tones.
    freelance1031@aol.com

  3. #3
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    no im not joking ,iraki shindawski,i mean its a good place to see what the camera likes,and then set your manuals from there,things can be done in other ways,than just your way.
    WHY CANT WE ALL ,JUST GET ALONG!!

  4. #4
    A salacious crumb JCPhoto1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FREELANCE2004
    no im not joking ,iraki shindawski,i mean its a good place to see what the camera likes,and then set your manuals from there,things can be done in other ways,than just your way.
    There is no way you can let the camera set the aperture with strobes because the camera can't get a reading that way. If you have digital you could just keep shooting and adjusting your settings but it's a little too time consuming. It would be very hard to set up ratios that way too.

    By the way his name is Irakly Shanidze

  5. #5
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    Certainly if I was looking for any advice on Studio Lighting, Irakly Shanidze is someone I would listen to very closely. His work and advice is excellent, some of the best I have seen.

    Irakly where are you been, you haven't been around for a while now.

  6. #6
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    ive had some good luck in the past,way before i had a meter,i use to set up like this and never had a problem.hey jim .why is it not possible with the strobes?i shot 35mm for years without a meter,and shot shutter priority with low power strobes,and got away with it.ive never done it with my digital.ive just recently started shooting digital.i shoot in manual when in the studio.thanks and god bless.
    Last edited by FREELANCE2004; 08-26-2004 at 03:49 PM.
    WHY CANT WE ALL ,JUST GET ALONG!!

  7. #7
    A salacious crumb JCPhoto1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FREELANCE2004
    ive had some good luck in the past,way before i had a meter,i use to set up like this and never had a problem.hey jim .why is it not possible with the strobes?i shot 35mm for years without a meter,and shot shutter priority with low power strobes,and got away with it.ive never done it with my digital.ive just recently started shooting digital.i shoot in manual when in the studio.thanks and god bless.
    Camera's are made with no provision to get get readings from strobes. There is no good reason to or practical way to do it. With your meter you take your reading at the subject facing the lights and or camera. Camera's use reflective readings ( I know they read ambient light) that work well with the type of readings you would need with no flash or the onboard speedlight. They can do TTL or metered readings for the speedlight. Remember that metering started with film long before you could chimp with your lcd and get a histogram reading. On top of all that the lcd method wouldn't work with setting ratio's. You would have to at least transfer the shots to a computer to see if the shot worked. Remember the earlier posts about modeling lights. That's what they are for, to help set up the shot without having to keep taking a picture and seeing how it looks on your computer. You are right about having good luck because that's what you need if you don't use a meter to set your aperture. It's too hit and miss and at the least too time consuming to try and keep guessing to get it right. If you were shooting 35mm film in the past in shutter priority the camera wasn't metering the shot because it can't. You would have to print the shot to see if you got it right. That would be expensive and too uncertain if you were shooting pro. Your customer isn't going to wait to see if you guessed right and then come back if you didn't.

    I might not be the best one to explain this concept. I was hoping one of the moderators or Irakly might be able give a clearer or more informed answer.

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