"Sports mode" and best settings for sports

[ChrisBrewster]

My camera (Fuji 5200) has no "sports" setting but its predecessor, 5100, did have it. As it has been explained to me, the sports mode on the earlier model essentially disables all the features that cause extra processing, to put all the priority on quick response. This message forum is the only one I've found that's just for sports photography, so I'd like to know your views on the sports mode available in some cameras, and what your personal (a la carte) "sports mode" consists of.

[livin4lax09]

my sports mode consists of manual mode. A lot of photographers prefer to shoot in Aperture priority mode, but I find if I shoot in manual, i can tweak the settings to my liking and dont have to worry about in-camera metering once I have the correct exposure down (In camera metering has screwed up my photos more than once). The sports mode in most cameras does the following: it opens up the aperture as much as possible, to allow for the fastest shutter speed possible. It essentially does the same thing as setting your camera on aperture priority and selecting the biggest aperture you can. Experiment around with aperture priority or manual mode, and you'll find you have a lot more control with your photography.

my personal mode is shooting with a wide open aperture, usually f/2.8 on the 70-200, and the lowest ISO that allows me to get 1/640. On bright days, I never drop the ISO below 200, I just shoot faster.

and there shouldnt be too much post processing needed for a point and shoot camera anyways. DSLR's purposely leave the image with low contrast and low sharpness, so more control is in the hands of the photographer during post processing, but point and shoots usually just take care of the image fully in camera so that the people who use them don't have to worry about photoshop or anything of the sort.

[JSPhoto]

I only ever used the "sports mode" once on a camera, didn't come out the way I wanted the pics to look. I have been shooting in manual ever since and never looked back.

Shooting sports really isn't nuch different than anything else, set up for the light you have available or the flash your using. The major difference in sports photography is being able to follow the action, proper panning technique, knowing the sport and being able to anticipate the action where and when it happens, and of course...timing. If you have the proper techinques down you can cheat a bit when it comes to lower light shooting by panning smoothly and so on with a slower shutter speed. Having the best gear you can afford also helps though, as does knowing how your equipment and how it will work in various conditions. Practice practice practice!

JS

[Old Timer]

I'm with livin here. I normally will shot in manuel once I have the setting dialed in for a venue. I will sometimes use aperature priority mode to make sure I am getting the DOF that I want for a certain sport or situation. I would never recommend using camera modes such as sports mode. The main reason is it takes all the control and creativity away for the photographer. Why be at the mercy of the camera to make decisions about your photographs.

[livin4lax09]

yeah, like JS said, you'll get much better results in manual as well. I remember when I used sports mode and it couldn't freeze action the least bit. Changed to manual, set everything myself, and in the same light I got great shots.

[SmartWombat]

essentially disables all the features that cause extra processing, to put all the priority on quick response.

You can do the same yourself - in Manual mode
Set the shutter speed I want, depending on how fast things are moving.
Set the aperture so the camera doesn't have to work out the exposure.
Manual focus a pre-focus where the racecar is going to be.

All that gives the camera nothign more to do other than take the photo !
And with a Minolta A1 or A2 point and shoot I could get down to about 30% rejects.

BUT since there's no such thing as a free lunch ...
I could only get one shot, at the pre-focussed point.
I had to keep an eye on the light and adjust as the sun went in/out of the clouds.
If the car didn't follow the ideal line, it was out of focus.

[JSPhoto]

I could only get one shot, at the pre-focussed point.
I had to keep an eye on the light and adjust as the sun went in/out of the clouds.
If the car didn't follow the ideal line, it was out of focus.

That shouldn't be an issue SW, your gear should focus fast enough. I tend to get a prefocus on a specific spot on the track, then when a car comes around or something happens my camera doesn't have to search to get a focus. You don't have much time though, especially sitting in turn 4 at Indy where you have 4-6 seconds with the cars in an area you can get a shot. The spot I pick there it doesn't matter what line the subject takes, the camera focuses so quick I can get the shot, even with the car accelerating coming off the turn and running towards 220-230mph.

JS

[SmartWombat]

That shouldn't be an issue SW, your gear should focus fast enough

This was when I was shooting with the Minolta A1/A2 wihich I thought was relevant to his question about the Fuji 5200.

The 20D, 1DS and 1DmkIIN are no comparsion. Tv mode and Servo AF there.
But I've sent one 1DmkIIN body back for AF problems, and one 20D as well.
I'm still not happy with performance and found the best images were from MF rather than AF, particularly when the car is coming head on.

[JSPhoto]

SW,

I know you had a bad 70-200, did you send it in with the MKII N?

An FYI for everyone - If for some reason you have to send gear in to Canon, especially for AF work it is best to also send in the lens(es) you normally use on that body and have Canon adjust them for your shooting style or the conditions you shoot in. Most Canon lenses are set at the factory to work best (ie: sharpest) at f8 or f16 depending on the lens. However if you shoot a lot of low light/indoors stuff they can adjust the body & lens to work better together and get better results. You have to ask them to do it though or they won't. It doesn't cost a lot, maybe around $100.

JS

[SmartWombat]

The 70-200 wasn't bad until I dropped it in the paddock at Silverstone during an F1 test

The bodies were replaced by the dealer, no questions asked. Nothing had to go to Canon.
Park Cameras are a Canon Pro dealer and I've had nothing but sucess with them.

I'm thinking of getting the 20D cleaned and serviced.
But if I send in the two 1D Pro bodies sometime - then I'll have them and the lenses adjusted to work together. With CPS membership I get 3 day priority servicing as soon as my sticker pack arrives.