Hockey and fast action focusing

[greatsave9]

Whats going to be the best settings for a camera to pick up focus of hockey and other fast moving sports?
Also does a camera pickup WHITE or BLACK faster on focus? Because I'm focusing in on jerseys , so should I maybe focus in on another part of their body if a certain color is better to focus on?


I think I'm screwing it up with the settings or not using the best ones.

The first image is the 1st while the other is the 5th image in the series.


I usual full manual, ISO 400-800 and have HSM Sigma 2.8 70-200.
I've taken great shots before at hockey but I just think I screw up the focus in the camera. I've had shots at 1/400 that act the same way so I think my camera settings are just off.


Here are the options on my Nikon D50.
Autofocus
TTL phase detection by Nikon Multi-CAM900 autofocus
module with AF-assist illuminator (approx. 0.5m to 3.0m)
Detection range: EV -1 to +19
(ISO 100 equivalent, at normal temperature: 20°C)



Lens Servo
1) Autofocus (AF-A): Auto-Servo AF; camera automatically
chooses single-servo AF (AF-S) or continuous servo AF (AF-C);
predictive focus tracking automatically activated according to
subject status
2) AF-S
3) AF-C
4) Manual focus (M)


Focus Area
Can be selected from 5 focus areas
AF Area Mode
1) Single Area AF,
2) Dynamic Area AF,
3) Closest Subject Priority Dynamic Area AF


Focus Lock
Focus can be locked by pressing shutter-release button halfway
(single-servo AF) or by pressing AE-L/AF-L button
Exposure Metering System TTL full-aperture exposure metering system
(1) 3D Color Matrix Metering II with 420-pixel RGB sensor
(2) Center-weighted: Weight of 75% (8mm dia. circle)
(3) Spot: Meters 3.5mm dia. circle (about 2.5% of frame)
centered on active focus area


THX in advance!

[jorgemonkey]

The lens will lock onto the AF much better when you are focusing on something that has contrast. I know for a fact that Sigma lens (I have it, and love it!) likes colors. If you could set one of your focus points to focus on the face mask, or one of the colorful parts of the jersey it would lock on quicker.

When I shoot hockey (once in a blue moon) I used AF-C, Single area AF. I also have my camera set so I control the AF by using the AE-L/AF-L button, and firing the shutter with the other button.

Exposure wise I tend to shoot in either Manual mode, or Aperture Priority mode, center-weighted metering

[JSPhoto]

Having shot hockey with both the Sigma 70-200 and Canon 70-200 with IS I have found the Cannon much better with a lot quicker AF and no AF searching like the Sigma did.. As GM said use Center point. I found with my Sigma I had to pretty much prefocus in low light as it searched too much, which is what it sounds like happened here.

JS

[greatsave9]

Thx for all the tips and info! Back at it tonight at a well lit rink

[jorgemonkey]

Thx for all the tips and info! Back at it tonight at a well lit rink

Lucky. The local rink around here (though REALLY nice) is about as bright as a full moon night sky.

[Oldin Sloe]

I shoot hockey with a 20D 70-200 and 300 both 2.8. The center weighting has helped my pictures some. Agree on the single point focus. I use auto focus, as fast as hockey is I have a hard time just keeping up with the Bantams. I will try some Manual this weekend. When I go above a 400 speed, I feel my results get too noisy, grainy. At 400 shutter speed will range in around the 200 point so you have to pan to keep from getting blurred images. If I were to upgrade to a 5D or even a 1D would this help with the noise problem on the faster settings?

A shot from last year as a Pee Wee

[jorgemonkey]

It may help the noise problems (I haven't had any experience with Canon's DSLR's).

I know with my Nikons when I'm at a higher ISO, I'll over exposure the photo just a little, and that helps keep the noise down. I would rather have a sharp noisy image than a clean blurry one.

[Oldin Sloe]

Keep in mind I am a total rookie here. I keep flip flopping back and forth on this issue. At 400 I may throw away 50 % and get frustrated because some good shots I can't keep. So I go to 800 get some good shots, but am unhappy with the quality when I crop or print full size. I have been using the setting where I manually control the shutter speed and go as fast as I can before I get the under exposed AP flashing. How would I go about over exposing the shot, this means to go on the brighter, more light side of the auto setting of the camera, correct?

Shot from this year

[JSPhoto]

I know the problem now, but you won't like the answer.... It's the 20D, it's a perfectly good body for anything below 800 ISO. The 20D has real problems focusing in low light, even if the light looks good to your eye the camera still doesn't like it, but the 20D just doesn't focus properly in low light situations, your only choice here is to shoot at high ISO and prefocus, which with hockey is a pain in the backside.Even in good light the 20D isn't the fastest focusing body.
You could find youself a used 1D body and get a much faster AF, higher ISO and better noise control. The difference of the AF speed is night and day between the 20D and 1D.

Also, shoot in Manual mode and get out of the other modes, that too will help your exposure. Also with 99% of the digital bodies it's best to over expose by one step.

And one other thing, the lighter the background the less noise you'll see so try and keep at angle thar has a lighter backround.

JS

[Oldin Sloe]

Thanks for the help. If I were to go new is there a huge difference between the 5d and the
1d in the aspect that I am a newbie and will more than likely not use a ton of options?

I will take a shot at full manual this weekend and let you know how the results turn out. I am not sure which rinks we will be in, as you know most are dungeons. Havin fun with this stuff either way.

Rob
Shot from practice, him his hockey,me with camera and the new 300. Adjusted in PS
[img]http://forums.photographyreview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=47893&stc=1&d=1194705475[img/]

[JSPhoto]

The 5D is not a sports camera and does not have fast AF, the 5D likes more light. You can get a used original 1D or MKII and MKIIN for under $1000, you just have to shop around.

JS

[berrywise]

The 5D is gonna do way better in low light situations than the 1d but the 5d is gonna kill ya when it comes to focusing speed and fps.

Then again if you were living in the perfect world you'd have the money and the time to do setup/take down with pocketwizards and lights and start strobing the arena.

[Oldin Sloe]

Trust me guys, my world is far from perfect. Played in 2 rinks with good light this weekend. Shot at 800 on Sat in Raw. Ended up with the same bad results. Talked it over with the wife, who stated I had taken some good pics last year. So I went back to 400 and captured the image in a L jpeg format. I will use PS instead of the Canon software and see if I can get back to where I was.

The shopping process will start for the 1D also. BH had some used ones, are they a good source?

Oh by the way the kids chalked up 2 more wins this weekend and are now 15-0-1.