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Thread: My Watch

  1. #1
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    My Watch

    What's wrong with this picture, I can't seem to figure it out...

    I edited in Elements by using unsharp mask, and adjusting lighting, shadows..


  2. #2
    Senior Member freygr's Avatar
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    Re: My Watch

    It looks under exposed, could of use a little more DOF, bottom is a little out of focus. That being said lighting with micro photography is a problem unless you have a long lens. But the image overall is good.
    GRF

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    GB1
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    Re: My Watch

    I like the shot, but I can see several problems with it too. It is slightly tilted to the right, not really centered in the frame (prob should be with this type of shot), the background is distracting (imo), and needs some DOF so that the bottom is also in full sharpness. The darkness doesn't bother me too much, for I like a shot that's mysterious. Worth a reshoot.
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    Re: My Watch

    assuming its anything like a full frame image.. more dof would be near impossible to get with a dslr and a macro lens..

    i tend to use watches as macro lens test subjects..

    trog

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    Re: My Watch

    I'll try, and re shoot it....

    Thanks for the tips.

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    Re: My Watch

    I like this one, but i agree on the DOF issue, sharpen up the top and bottom of the watch a little more.

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    Re: My Watch

    an example of shallow dof on a watch sized DSLR macro.. this one was taken at F22.. the angle isnt as great either so all those who simply say improve the dof might like to tell the poster exactly how to do this..



    trog

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    Senior Member freygr's Avatar
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    Re: My Watch

    The DOF depends on the Focal Length of the Lens and the Aperture of the lens. Formulas and like can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
    DOF calculator 1): http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html
    2): http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
    Last edited by freygr; 03-20-2007 at 11:01 AM.
    GRF

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    Re: My Watch

    Formulas or not the bottom line is if u want to fill a frame with a watch sized object even at F22 getting the entire face in focus isnt possible at the kind of angle the shot was taken at..

    not with a dslr or 35mm film.. a smaller sensor compact will do it thow.. so would standing back further and cropping the centre of the image out or altering the angle of the watch.. getting enough dof is a major problem with macro photography..

    all the formula will tell u is why u cant do it.. not how u can..

    trog

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    GB1
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    Re: My Watch

    Well then Trog, I guess one has to adjust the angle then, eh?
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    Re: My Watch

    Oh man.. I'm so confused...

    I'm doing this with a Point, and shoot..does that make a difference?

  12. #12
    GB1
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    Re: My Watch

    Quote Originally Posted by WeirdPICS
    Oh man.. I'm so confused...

    I'm doing this with a Point, and shoot..does that make a difference?
    Normally, point-and-shoot cameras have little to no manual control over the aperature and shutter speed... so probably means you can't resolve the depth-of-field issue we described.

    WeirdPICS, I know it isn't always possible, but if you can somehow swing getting a digital SLR camera it's like going from your first tricycle to a 18-speed bike. You can do so much more. But in the meanwhile try to read up on the whole aperature and shutter speed stuff online, it's one of the fundamental aspects of photography. Then when you get the SLR, you'll be ready to roll.

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  13. #13
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    Re: My Watch

    I can control those settings on my P&S. It's a DSC-H5

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    Re: My Watch

    Ok: the larger the aperature (f-stop) number, the greater the depth of field. But if you use a larger f-stop, it also reduces the amt of light let into your camera, so your shutter speed needs to be longer. That will mean that you need to stabilize the camera - i.e., use a tripod.

    With either telephoto lenses or macro lenses the inherent depth of field will be less. On some of them, even if you set the f-stop to its highest number you may still not get all in focus. Note that with wide angles you have the opposite effect - everything's almost in focus already, even without using a large f-stop number.

    Try reading up on it. You will find it easy after awhile.
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    Re: My Watch

    Quote Originally Posted by GB1
    Ok: the larger the aperature (f-stop) number, the greater the depth of field. But if you use a larger f-stop, it also reduces the amt of light let into your camera, so your shutter speed needs to be longer. That will mean that you need to stabilize the camera - i.e., use a tripod.

    With either telephoto lenses or macro lenses the inherent depth of field will be less. On some of them, even if you set the f-stop to its highest number you may still not get all in focus. Note that with wide angles you have the opposite effect - everything's almost in focus already, even without using a large f-stop number.

    Try reading up on it. You will find it easy after awhile.
    Ok, Thanks
    Viva La Point and Shoot.

  16. #16
    Senior Member freygr's Avatar
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    Re: My Watch

    Quote Originally Posted by trog100
    Formulas or not the bottom line is if u want to fill a frame with a watch sized object even at F22 getting the entire face in focus isnt possible at the kind of angle the shot was taken at..

    not with a dslr or 35mm film.. a smaller sensor compact will do it thow.. so would standing back further and cropping the centre of the image out or altering the angle of the watch.. getting enough dof is a major problem with macro photography..

    all the formula will tell u is why u cant do it.. not how u can..

    trog
    I have to respectfully disagree. You can find what you can do or which lens could do the task. How to do it depends on what equipment you use. With a view camera what is being ask is a trivial task but with camera that doesn't have those adjustments it can be a losing task.
    GRF

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