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  1. #1
    Dinosaur carney2's Avatar
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    Shooting Thru Window Glass

    In about a week I will have one of my few chances to get a photo of Japan's Mt. Fuji. Summer is not a good time to be photographing the sacred mountain. Your chances on any day in the summer of getting something decent are slim due to clouds and thick haze. Because of this, I did not schedule any photography stops. My best chance will be on an early morning shinkansen (bullet train) heading south out of Tokyo. I will therefore have to shoot through the window of a (very) fast train.

    What's the best technique? Do I use a polarizing filter to reduce the window glare?

  2. #2
    misanthrope
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    Quote Originally Posted by carney2
    In about a week I will have one of my few chances to get a photo of Japan's Mt. Fuji. Summer is not a good time to be photographing the sacred mountain. Your chances on any day in the summer of getting something decent are slim due to clouds and thick haze. Because of this, I did not schedule any photography stops. My best chance will be on an early morning shinkansen (bullet train) heading south out of Tokyo. I will therefore have to shoot through the window of a (very) fast train.

    What's the best technique? Do I use a polarizing filter to reduce the window glare?
    The polarizer will work best if you are at about a 90-degree angle to the sun. As far as cutting glare from the reflection, yes, it will help. It will also cost you a stop or two, and since you are going to be traveling quite fast, you might want to think about a faster ISO to aviod camera shake and to keep the subject movement under control. Also be careful about AF because the window might screw it up. Other than that, expect some decrease in quality because of the interfering pane of thick glass and the polarizer. On the other hand, I have been known to occasionally get some good shots through the windows of moving vehicles, both as a driver and a passenger. You probably will too; just try for a fast shutter and maintain focus. Hope this helps.
    "We've all been raised by television to believe that one day we'll all be millionaires and movie gods and rock stars -- but we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. And we're very, very pissed off."

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  3. #3
    Sleep is optional Sebastian's Avatar
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    Window glare won't be as much of an issue as window grime and scratches. Bring a polarizer, it might help, but there might be more to deal with. I suggest you try to keep the lens as close to the window as possible to blur any dirt or scratches, sort of like shooting through a fence.

    Good luck.
    -Seb

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  4. #4
    Member frannymac's Avatar
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    I read something once (pretty sure it was on this site but I can't find it) about taking photos out of a plane window over the Antartic. The photographer used some form of foam lens hood that rested directly on the glass effectively cutting out all the glare (sort of acting like a circular blinker). This sort of system may allow you to avoid the polariser therefore not losing the stops as Outdoorsman says and keep your lens as close as possible to the window as Sebastian suggests. It may also help stabilise the camera, reducing shake? Just a thought - I don't know if the accessory was home made or you can purchase one??? I only vaguely remember the thread, but remember thinking what a great idea it was.

    Maybe someone else here can remember more?

    Hope these ramblings help...

    Fran

  5. #5
    Old hack
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    Quote Originally Posted by frannymac
    I read something once (pretty sure it was on this site but I can't find it) about taking photos out of a plane window over the Antartic. The photographer used some form of foam lens hood that rested directly on the glass effectively cutting out all the glare (sort of acting like a circular blinker).

    You can get a collapsable rubber lens shade -- just make sure it doesn't vignette with the lens you intend to use. Personally, I'd skip the polarizer, though. I'd want every bit of light coming in so that I could use as high a shutter speed as possible to eliminate shake (but then again I shoot low-speed slide films). If you get really close to the glass (but not touching it) you should be OK with reflections. If not, use a hat or a magazine to shade the lens wherever you need to.


    Regards
    Dennis

  6. #6
    nature/wildlife co-moderator paulnj's Avatar
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    RUBBER hood........

    these are VERY USEFUL and LOW COST($5-25+ depending on the maker)


    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...27&Submit.y=13
    CAMERA BIRD NERD #1




    BIRD NERD O'CANON

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  7. #7
    Member frannymac's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul - that's exactly what I was talking about! I wish we had a B&H here!

  8. #8
    nature/wildlife co-moderator paulnj's Avatar
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    well all I did....

    was supply the link ;)

    call the photo related stores in the area and ask them" do you have a RUBBER GENERIC LENS HOOD IN {YOUR LENS FILTER SIZE} "

    or

    maybe flashram peter can give you a good source to buy from?
    CAMERA BIRD NERD #1




    BIRD NERD O'CANON

    "Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both" - Benjamin Franklin

  9. #9
    Member kamboura's Avatar
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    Carney, Please post a picture when they are done, even if they are not as you expected. I am visualising this picture of the mt. Fugi very still and solid in the background, which some foreground objects just wising by because of the speed of the train.
    If I may sugges to experiment with slower shutters (1/30th maybe), I am betting the mountain can still come out sharp with everything else just streaking.
    Oh yeah, the hood pushed against the glass trick worked for me once before, so, I would recommend that strongly.
    Opinions I got lots, expertise none!! Hmm… except for giving opinions!!

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