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  1. #1
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    SB 600 vs. SB 800

    Hello to all!
    I have a d70 and needed a matching flashgun. If im not mistaken SB 600 and 800 are the only compatible ones...is that true? And if it is, can someone tell me their respective limitations?

    TIA!

    Kunal

  2. #2
    Senior Member OldSchool's Avatar
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    Re: SB 600 vs. SB 800

    Hi TOE,

    I know for a fact that Sigma makes one. I tried it but didn't like it.

    The difference between the SB600 and SB800 is that the 800 has an auto mode, more power, and can be run as a wireless Master. You'll have to read up on those things at the Nikon web site.

    Search General Discussions. I believe Mark (mdmc) has discussed using a different brand with just auto mode and got good results. You will not have i-ttl doing this.

    BR,
    Tim
    Samurai #17 |;^\

  3. #3
    has-been... another view's Avatar
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    Re: SB 600 vs. SB 800

    I have to admit I've never really shot a D70 or have experience with the iTTL flashes, but if it were me I'd only get an iTTL compatible flash. It looks like a pretty good system, much more accurate than it's predecessors.

    I'd also get the larger of the two (SB800). I've never had too much power from a flash like this before but have (with SB28's, similar power) needed a little more than they had on occasion. The SB600 is quite a bit lower in power (remember that one stop less is 1/2 as much light, etc - but I can't remember the exact output) so I'd avoid it myself. I think the SB800 has some other features on it as well.

  4. #4
    learning member
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    Re: SB 600 vs. SB 800

    Kunal,
    I have an sb 800, But I havent tried it yet.I have been usinng a sunpack 383. It dosent communeicate at all with the camera except when to fire. it has its own light sensor built in that works perfectly well for 80 % of the time. the instcrution manual for the sb 800 is confusing to me. Its a great flash and comes with some nice accessories(soft case, 2 filters, built in wide angle diffusion filter, built in reflector card,and difusion cap almost identicle to the omni bounce after market accessory).
    The main reason that I use the sunpack 383 is that i'm familliar with it.
    If you want the best that you can get, get the sb800, if you want to save a little money, get the sb 600, if you want to save a lot of money, just about any flash that uses 4 AA batteries or less(6V or less) should work. I have heard that the vivitar 283 is a better flash than sunpack 383, and I believe it.
    There could some compatability problems that could fry you're camera! But I think that may be only with very old flash guns.
    If you have any more questions call a cmera dealer if you live in the states. If you dont live in the states just post here and I will be happy to find answers for you.
    Mark.

  5. #5
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    Re: SB 600 vs. SB 800

    Hi Mark,
    Been looking at the reviews and Vivitar 285 looks quite good! Only problem is that it seems to have too high a trigger voltage and that seems to be a common complaint or observation by many. Will this be an issue with my D70?

    Thanks a million!
    Kunal

  6. #6
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    Re: SB 600 vs. SB 800

    I really dont know,Kunal. I only found out that the sunpack 383 worked by trying it. try posting a new thread here about trigger voltage and see what you get for answers. If you dont get any help, I'll be happy to call some dealers to find out what can and can't be used, and why.
    Mark.

  7. #7
    has-been... another view's Avatar
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    Re: SB 600 vs. SB 800

    I asked Nikon about this a while back and I think the guy I talked to said that all of their cameras were rated for 250v. My Fuji S2 (built on Nikon N80) is only rated at 6v per Fuji though (which makes me wonder). Verify what the trigger voltage is that you need, and make sure that voltage is safe with the camera before you try it.

    Older 283/285's may have a higher trigger voltage than newer ones. Those flashes have been out for many years. Twenty five, at least. They've been out that long because they're good - I still see people using them, 283 especially for some reason.

    If you're only using the flash in either manual or auto, then (as long as trigger voltage is OK) either should be fine. What I mean by auto is using the flash's built in sensor to determine flash exposure. It's not foolproof but it's not too bad either. I'd say 80-90% success rate, maybe higher, with digital. Nikon's iTTL will probably have a higher success rate but there's a cost and learning curve to it.

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