What is the necessity using Chemical Stop Baths?

[Asylum Steve]

Thanks for pointing all of this out. At least I know for sure I can just use water...

Again, it depends on the way you process. When I souped my own bw film, I almost always pulled it, meaning I overexposed the shot (exposing for shadow detail) and underdeveloped it to keep the highlights from blowing out.

I used a very simplified zone system method, and in keeping with that, used a high-dilution developer at a relatively cool temp for a long developing time (again, this helps keep a wide dynamic range with lower contrast).

My point is water was fine as a stop, as the develpoment was slow.

Now, if I was using a high concentrate developer at a higher temp and short develop time, it would be much more important to halt that developing action more quickly. In that case, yes, I probably would use a chemical stop...

[reverberation]

I always have used stopbath...somewhere in the process. I think it is important. My experience with large ortho negs from a graphic arts camera have instilled in me the need to ensure my chemicals are fresh and each process is insulated from the next. These are essentially line art, areas of clear film and black. I have had some of my exposures show areas of gray after developing because I did not mix new chemicals.

With 35mm negs I will be careful, unless its tri-x or plus-x, for some reason I will try anything with these films. I think because I bulk loaded them for most of my formative years, photographically speaking. I think Steve makes a good point, expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. DRG also has a good point with the distilled/processed water. If you want to burn copper plates its the only way to go.

[MiraxGrp]

Sorry i'm newbie , plz help to create new topic