Please post your developing experience with this combo below.

CLICK HERE FOR Tri-X 400 DATA SHEET (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf)
CLICK HERE FOR HC-110 DATA SHEET (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf)

Here are the manufacturer's recommended times with for this combo using HC-110 dilution B:

Small Tank or Rotary Tube
---------------18C/65F----------20C/68F----------21C/70F----------22C/72F----------24C/75F
ISO 400------4 1/2--------------3 3/4---------------3 1/2------------------3-----------------2 1/2
EI 1600----------7-------------------6------------------5 1/2------------------5-----------------4 1/4


Large Tank
---------------18C/65F----------20C/68F----------21C/70F----------22C/72F----------24C/75F
ISO 400---------5----------------4 1/2------------------4------------------3 1/2-----------------3
EI 1600----------8----------------6 3/4----------------6 1/4---------------5 1/2--------------4 3/4


Development times shorter than 5 minutes may produce unsatisfactory results.
Because of these films' exposure latitude, you can underexpose by one stop and use normal processing times. Prints will show a slight loss in shadow detail.

For other film and developer combos, please visit the B&W Film/Developer Database Index (http://forums.photographyreview.com/showthread.php?t=38207)

I worked from concentrate in solution B, and it gave me the best performance. I always made sure all chemicals were the same temp and it always worked great. The two photography courses I took in college used two totally different techniques. One class used d-76 (photojournalism) and the fine art photography used HC-110. At th time I hated the HC-110, because D-76 was easier. However, the moment I saw my first real HC-110 negative that wasn't of a grey card, I was hooked. I find that I can use neopan 400 and tr-x 400 interchangebly in HC-110 and I couldn't in D-76.