Hi all :wavey:

I'd like some input about an idea I have. I have zero darkroom experience, so I don't even know if this is feasible.

I have a Ken-a-vision projection microscope (http://www.microscopesandmore.com/pics/kenavisionx1000.jpg). It's just like an enlarger: A light source above the stage, stage above the optics, projecting an image on to the area between the legs. A piece of milk plexi gives a nice surface to project onto. There's also a mirror that you can introduce into the projected beam to reflect the image onto a wall or screen.

I thought it might be fun to project the image onto photo paper - to resolve a reverse image of whatever was on the microscope slide. I'd need photo paper, developer, stop bath, fixer, a timer and a safe light (and a light-proof bathroom, of course ;)).

What are some of the things I'm missing here? This project would be a prelude to developing my own negatives and prints, but for now I want to play around a little bit and see if my bathroom set-up can be workable before dealing with a real enlarger.

All advice welcome :D

Hi Peter, I'm hoping to set up my own bathroom darkroom sometime soon. I'll be interested to hear how your's progresses. CLICK HERE (http://www.dantestella.com/technical/guerilla.html) and CLICK HERE (http://www.dantestella.com/technical/guerilla2.html) for a couple basic articles that might help you out.

Hi Peter,

That's an interesting idea. It's hard to say how well it will work, but here are my thoughts. You need to be able to control the exposure. With a normal enlarger lens, you can adjust f-stops, just like a camera lens. Also, the enlarger is connected to a timer, which you set to expose the paper for an appropriate amount of time. In this way, exposing paper is just like exposing film. You will have to find a way to control this and it may be very tedious with out the right equipment.

Other than that, I don't see why you couldn't do it. Let us know how it turns out.

Paul

Looking at the picture of the microscope/enlarger, I am wondering if it will spread light through out the room?
You might have to modify it some.
Know what I mean?
Brian

Welcome to the forum. As long as your enlarger has a way of focusing the image, it should work. Is there a way to control the amount of light coming from your microscope? Enlargers have an aperture build into them so you can control the amount of light falling on your photo paper. Long exposures are nice when you need to do some burning and dodging on the photo. Depending on how bright your light source is, you may not have time for dodging and burning.

Edit: looks like Paul and I were typing at the same time. :)

Brian brings up a good point - the light source spills all over the place. I'd have to tent it in some blackwrap, which will be a little ungainly as there still needs to be adequate ventilation.

It's a pretty bright lamp - a projection lamp. I forget how many lumens, but I think it's in the 1k range.

Regarding the lack of an adjustable aperture:
Might a possible work around be altering the time of the exposure? I'd certainly do a test strip first.
Another thought is presenting a physical barrier to the light - a piece of blackwrap with a hole in it, between the light source and the slide? I could try different size holes for different apertures.

Thanks for the thoughts!

Also, any advice on which papers / chemistry to go with would be appreciated. I don't want to dump tons of money into this yet, so any chemicals I buy I'd like to have work for prints as well (assuming I get that far!)

Hi Peter,

Sorry, I don't have any specific recommendations but, here's some links for you to check out:

Kodak B&W Film Chemicals (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/filmBWmain.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.18.14.7&lc=en)
Kodak B&W Paper Chemicals (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/paperBWmain.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.18.16.5&lc=en)
Ilford Film Developers (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=6&t=Film+Developers)
Ilford Paper Developers (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=7&t=Paper+Developers)
Ilford Fixers & Sundry Chemicals (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=8&t=Fixers+%26+Sundry+Chemicals)
Ilford Papers (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=5&t=Photographic+Papers)

Hopefully these will help guide you towards what might work best for you.

Aaron

It's a pretty bright lamp - a projection lamp. I forget how many lumens, but I think it's in the 1k range.

Regarding the lack of an adjustable aperture:
Might a possible work around be altering the time of the exposure? I'd certainly do a test strip first.

Yes, you could alter the time and not worry about the aperture. But, if your lamp is too bright, you might have very short exposure times, which would make it very hard to get it just right. The opposite, long times, would be easier to deal with, as long as you have patience.

I can't recommend specific chemicals, because I never bought my own. I just rented a place that provided them. But, I don't think brand names are that important. Just read up on the basic requirements and make sure you have each type covered (developer, stop, fixer, permawash).

The more I look at your microscope/enlarger the more I think it won't work, i's only based on what I can see of course.
You can find good basic enlargers on Ebay and craigslist, for less than $100.
But don't let me dissuade you, please keep us updated on how it goes!
And Welcome to PR.com!
Brian

Thanks for all the input, guys.

I've decided to take this in a different direction for a while, and learn some basic darkroom techniques first. Once I've fiddled around a bit I'll revisit the microscope dealie.

A couple nights ago I picked up a Mamiya C3 for what I think was a great price, and he gave me his developing canister and some reels for free. I'm going to double-blanket the bathroom door today (one on the outside, one on the inside), and see if that's enough. If it's not, I imagine it will be enough after dark at least.

So, having read the threads here about how satisfying it is to process your own negatives, I went down to Adorama and bought some chemicals! I also bought a couple of extra rolls to practice loading on. The guy at Adorama said the 120 will be easier to load, and therefore better to practice on than 35mm. But I have way more rolls of 35mm than 120. Thoughts?

I'm really excited to be trying this out - I hope to be able to process a roll I shot last Sunday before this coming Monday. I'll let you all know how it goes!

To develop film, you don't even need a dark room. You can get a changing bag and save yourself the hassle of closing off a room. If you want to start printing the traditional way, then you will need a dark room.

I agree with Michael. Do yourself a favor and pick up a changing bag. They are only about $20 - $30. Without a full darkroom, there's too much chance for any sort of light leaks. I haven't try darkening a room to load film but, I know people that have had problems fogging their film just from the glow in the dark hands on their watches.

What did you end up getting for chemicals? As for which is easier, I think 35mm is but, it's a personal thing as a lot of people say 120 is easier. I would say for me 120 is faster but, I have an easier time keeping 35mm straight while loading. The Mamiya C3's are supposed to be excellent cameras, though heavy. Do you have a meter you can use or are you going to bring along another camera to meter with? Have fun shooting. Gotta love the old TLR's :thumbsup: Looking forward to seeing some of your shots and if you have any questions along the way, don't hesitate to ask :)

For Chemicals, I got the stuff the guy at Adorama recommended:
TMax developer,
Ilfostop
Ilford rapid fixer

I might get a bag, as I was practicing this morning loading the reels I realized I the blanket I was doing it under was essentially the same thing as a bag...

As far as metering goes, I came across an excellent (and funny) article by Fred Parker (http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm) about how to meter the old fashioned way. I'm going to try to learn this technique first (but carry my trusty Nikkormat around just in case :))

I have a Bessler universal reel. It's very easy to load 35mm and 120. Also get a changing bag that has an inner section in case you leave something out of the bag.

I know I hate the stainless reels. I never could get the knack of loading them. I have the plastic quick loading reels, yes they get dirty and ugly over time, but I put them in the dishwasher and they come out looking great. I know in school we had film loading rooms, which were tiny closets with a table built into the wall. Never really had trouble with fogging, but I put my watch in my pocket when I went in.

Z