photophorous
11-09-2007, 09:14 AM
Here's a few shots from my most recent film test. Information is below. Hope you like them.
This is supposed to be an example of what we're talking about in <A HREF="http://forums.photographyreview.com/showthread.php?t=37964">this thread</A>.
Paul
The wall outside my favorite pub (before I entered):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/photophore/1928325515/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2242/1928325515_830b03cc61.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="." /></a>
Callie, my girlfriend's insane kitten:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/photophore/1897551769/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/1897551769_99a336325f.jpg" width="500" height="331" alt="." /></a>
Film Name: Fuji Neopan 400
Film Format: 35mm, 36 exp
Actual EI: 400 ISO
Contrast level: This is my first roll, but it seems to be good for mid contrast lighting while still holding a little shadow detail in high contrast lighting. Some of the shots taken in very high contrast lighting had blown highlights, but less exposure would have helped that.
Presoak: Yes. Water, at 68 degrees, for about 30 seconds.
Developer Name: D76
Developer Dilution: 1 to 1
Developer Temp. 68 degrees
Developing Time: 9 min, 11 sec.
Time Measurement Technique: From start of pour-in to start of pour-out...pouring as fast as possible.
Tank Size: single roll, 35mm
Tank Type: stainless steel
Tank Fill Level: I try to leave a little air gap above the film to let the developer slosh around during agitation.
Agitation Technique: 1 inversion (with quarter turn) per second, continuous for first 30 seconds, then 3 or 4 inversions in 5 seconds, every 30 seconds after.
Stop Bath: Water. Fill, agitate for 30 secs, drain, refill, and agitate for another 30 seconds.
Output: Film scanner.
Subject Matter Comments: This combo produced results that are slightly less grainy than TriX. Good for street/urban shooting, but probably still too grainy for landscapes, at least in 35mm format.
Notes for next time: The results from this roll have more contrast and less shadow detail than I get from TriX, but I typically expose TriX at 320 and develop slightly less. Next time I shoot this film, I will expose and process it the same way I do TriX, and I expect the differences I've observed will be diminished.
This is supposed to be an example of what we're talking about in <A HREF="http://forums.photographyreview.com/showthread.php?t=37964">this thread</A>.
Paul
The wall outside my favorite pub (before I entered):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/photophore/1928325515/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2242/1928325515_830b03cc61.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="." /></a>
Callie, my girlfriend's insane kitten:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/photophore/1897551769/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/1897551769_99a336325f.jpg" width="500" height="331" alt="." /></a>
Film Name: Fuji Neopan 400
Film Format: 35mm, 36 exp
Actual EI: 400 ISO
Contrast level: This is my first roll, but it seems to be good for mid contrast lighting while still holding a little shadow detail in high contrast lighting. Some of the shots taken in very high contrast lighting had blown highlights, but less exposure would have helped that.
Presoak: Yes. Water, at 68 degrees, for about 30 seconds.
Developer Name: D76
Developer Dilution: 1 to 1
Developer Temp. 68 degrees
Developing Time: 9 min, 11 sec.
Time Measurement Technique: From start of pour-in to start of pour-out...pouring as fast as possible.
Tank Size: single roll, 35mm
Tank Type: stainless steel
Tank Fill Level: I try to leave a little air gap above the film to let the developer slosh around during agitation.
Agitation Technique: 1 inversion (with quarter turn) per second, continuous for first 30 seconds, then 3 or 4 inversions in 5 seconds, every 30 seconds after.
Stop Bath: Water. Fill, agitate for 30 secs, drain, refill, and agitate for another 30 seconds.
Output: Film scanner.
Subject Matter Comments: This combo produced results that are slightly less grainy than TriX. Good for street/urban shooting, but probably still too grainy for landscapes, at least in 35mm format.
Notes for next time: The results from this roll have more contrast and less shadow detail than I get from TriX, but I typically expose TriX at 320 and develop slightly less. Next time I shoot this film, I will expose and process it the same way I do TriX, and I expect the differences I've observed will be diminished.