Here are the photos that didn't make it into the snakes and amphibians category.

five lined skink.
http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/five%20line%20skink%202%20small.jpg

http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/five%20line%20skink%20small.jpg

damselfly

http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/damselfly%202%20small.jpg

racerunner

http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/racerunner%201%20small.jpg

butterfly

http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/shawnee%20butterfly%201%20small.jpg

spiders

http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/shawnee%20spider%201%20small.jpg

http://www.sushigaijin.com/images/photos/shawnee%20spring%2007/shawnee%20spider%202%20small.jpg

Terrific series of shots, no favourites all very special, the last two spider images are excellent, your shots are always so sharp with excellent depth of field, would you mind giving the settings that you use?

Thanks Bev!

Since my camera is essentially a P&S with manual controls, my settings will be different than DSLR settings, and even within DSLRs the settings will vary. I always leave the EXIF attached, so if you download a (free) EXIF viewer you can see exactly how the shot was taken. Remember that my F/stop reads differently than larger sensor F/stops - I only get f/2.8 - f/8, but the depth of field is larger for each stop - so my F/8 is closer to f/22 and f/2.8 is closer to f/5!

One thing that I do not change is that I always shoot with as much manual control as possible, and always shoot with the histogram and spot meter. The histogram is the only tool I use to judge frame exposure, and the spot meter is the only tool I use to judge subject exposure. I think all of these were shot with fill-flash. I meter the scene without the flash, turn the flash on and adjust it to -1 ev and shoot through a diffuser. The diffuser knocks it back to about -1.6 ev. The flash brings the saturation WAY up, helps freeze the image, and gets rid of the harsh contrast in full sun shots.

I always shoot manual ISO. I always shoot one-time AF, rather than any of the "tracking" modes - I've found other AF modes to be inaccurate.

One thing that helps is my camera's weight - the whole rig weighs a kilo soaking wet, so it's easy to get good handheld shots. I'm not sure I could get the same results with an 8-10 lb camera, and that's being pretty conservative.

Thanks so much Erik for taking the time to answer my question.

I was'nt surprised when i heard the word "Manual" was used it certainly helps with correct focus, i have been trying this method with my bird shots, although many a time my subject has gone before i get the correct settings, but the ones i did get show a much better result than when used in AV or TV.
You really know how to get the flash working to its full advantage without the picture even showing you have used it, many a time you look at a picture and you can see clearly flash has been used, and wrongly, credit to you Erik.

Do you use spot metering just for your closeup or reptile/amphibian shots? or is this a general metering for you? again, i have learnt something here regarding my macro work, as i always use valuative metering, never thought to use spot (going out today to give this ago)

Once again Thanks Erik i am sure some of your methods will help greatly.

I agree with Bevb, Your macros are always spot on. I didnt realize that you were using a P$S, now I'm even more impressed!! Very nice indeed. You give me something to work for.:D