View Full Version : Advice on Lens & Lighting for indoor party – Canon 350D
Eric_SF 11-21-2005, 03:29 PM Hi,
I am an intermediate photographer but have very little experience with shooting indoor parties. I am going to be at a company event and, like the young ambitious intermediate photographer I am, I volunteered to take candid photographs at the event.
I currently do not have an external flash for my Canon 350D and am looking at either buying one or renting one (I usually don’t shoot indoors that often).
As for lenses, I typically use a Sigma 18-200 f3.5/4.5 as my walk-around lens and I have a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 that I use for portraits and other things…
Because I’m not seasoned in indoor party settings (it will be in a ballroom with the room lights on), I’m reaching out to anyone that has tips, tricks or suggestions that would help me make the best of my event.
Thanks in advance-
~Eric
SmartWombat 11-21-2005, 04:41 PM Flash light can be harsh, and rather unflattering.
A ballroom's going to have a high ceiling, so bounce flash is paorably out.
I'd suggest at least getting an L-bracket, possibly with a handgrip on so you can stady the camera, and put the flash on that with a remote lead.
Separating the flash and lens will also help reduce red-eye.
I'm surprised at 30mm for portraits, I'd say that's a bit wide angle (I'd prefer 50mm or 80mm).
I'd go with the 18-200 for versatility at the expense of light, as long as you have flash.
Otherwise the 30mm f1.4 would be the best bet for candid with available light.
masdog 11-21-2005, 06:50 PM You have to remember that the 350D has a 1.6 cropping factor, so a 30mm lens would probably be equivalent to a 50mm.
As for the rest of SW's post, I would agree with what he says. Get an L-bracket and an external flash. The EX-580 is the top end flash, but you could probably get by with the EX-430. And while you're at the store looking at those items, also consider a 50 f/1.4. That lens has become my primary lens in the month that I've owned it, and I've used it in a number of events.
another view 11-22-2005, 06:26 PM L-bracket, a.k.a. flash bracket. Stroboframe is probably the most common out there, but you'll also need a cable to connect the camera to the flash.
You'll need a flash, no doubt about that - and don't forget extra batteries. Try to practice with it a little bit before the event so you know how to set it and what it's going to do. If people aren't moving much and the room is fairly dark, try using a shutter speed of 1/30 on some of the shots. This will brighten up the background since the flash exposure is only determined by aperture (but ambient room light exposure is determined by aperture and shutter speed since it's out of the flash's range).
The Stroboframe would be nice because it will keep shadows behind people (so you can't see them in photographs). I'm not sure if you can rent one anywhere, but again you'd need the cable and rent on that stuff is probably about what it costs to buy it. I'd just get the flash and do your best with it. It's all part of the learning process.
Eric_SF 11-23-2005, 09:57 AM Thanks for all of the advice. I was going to rent a canon 550 flash for $20 a day, but after reading reviews on Sigma's 500 Super flash I think I'd rather buy it for such an inexpensive price. I realize I won't be able to take vertical shots without the l-bracket so I'll look into one.
As for the lenses- I love the 30mm lens because it's so fast and quiet. It does act as a 50mm from a film camera because of the 1.6x crop factor, so it becomes a very versatile lens.
Also, thanks for the suggestion of the shutter speed of 1/30... however, I just hope I can hold the camera steady enough for the shots.
~Eric
another view 11-23-2005, 11:56 AM \Also, thanks for the suggestion of the shutter speed of 1/30... however, I just hope I can hold the camera steady enough for the shots.
When you're in a fairly dark room, the flash will provide most of the exposure. Since the flash is so quick, it will freeze your subject. You may see a little movement, for example if there are light fixtures on a back wall they might be a little blurred. It's a tradeoff - sometimes it will work, sometimes not. You can use slower speeds too, but for this probably won't need anything faster than 1/60.
SmartWombat 11-23-2005, 01:04 PM You have to remember that the 350D has a 1.6 cropping factor, so a 30mm lens would probably be equivalent to a 50mm.
I did, I prefer longer than 50mm, about 85mm :)
I had a 135 for my Zenit-E that was great, nice and soft (and cheap).
The 50mm was an amazingly sharp lens - not flattering.
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