Specifically, what mode do you use the most?

I do the majority of my shooting in Apeture Priority. Probably 95% of the time.
I occasionally shoot in Manual Mode, maybe 4% of the time.
It's rare, but I sometimes shoot in Shutter Priority for flash syncronization purposes, maybe 1% of the time.
I do not use Program mode anymore.

So, how do you shoot?

I shoot in manual with a manual camera. About half the time with a meter the rest without.

Specifically, what mode do you use the most?

I do the majority of my shooting in Apeture Priority. Probably 95% of the time.
I occasionally shoot in Manual Mode, maybe 4% of the time.
It's rare, but I sometimes shoot in Shutter Priority for flash syncronization purposes, maybe 1% of the time.
I do not use Program mode anymore.

So, how do you shoot?I shoot in program mode generally but switch to aperture priority when DOF is important to the shot and shutter priority if I want specific blurring or stop action. I use manual for low light conditions although sometimes I will just use exposure compensation if that will give reasonable settings in program mode. I also vary the exposure by selecting different things to meter on in the frame, sometimes checking the automatic settings and the setting them in manual to free up framing and focusing.

When shooting in Program mode I often look at the settings shown with the shutter half depressed and think about what that will do to the shot.

Where I want highlight detail as well as shadow detail I will set the camera to bracket plus and minus a stop so I will have images to use for digital blending in order to get more exposure latitude.

I use a tripod or monopod frequently because I can no longer hold a camera steady although I have been happy with the IS capability of my current camera and hand hold more often now.

I shoot a lot of different compositions and selective exposures of a subject and choose which shots to use later. (Pretty sloppy, huh? I am sure glad for digital)

One important thing that I do - when I'm done shooting the subject I originally stopped to take, I turn around in a circle and look at everything else around there with a photographer's eye. I also look at things at a different scale from the original subject - if the original was a landscape I look at things in more detail, or if the original subject was a closeup or detail shot I take in a wider view of the setting. A lot of the shots I really like are those second subjects.

Specifically, what mode do you use the most?

I do the majority of my shooting in Apeture Priority. Probably 95% of the time.
I occasionally shoot in Manual Mode, maybe 4% of the time.
It's rare, but I sometimes shoot in Shutter Priority for flash syncronization purposes, maybe 1% of the time.
I do not use Program mode anymore.

So, how do you shoot?

When I shoot, I try to slowly, steadily raise the weapon to target height, line up my front and rear sights, inhale, and gently squeeze the trigger as I exhale.

(Aperture priority.)

I shoot just about the same as you do. I'll shoot in manual mode when in conditions where I don't trust the exposure controls in my camera, or when lighting conditions aren't changing.

Depends what I'm shooting. Mostly aperture priority or manual, and occasionally shutter priority for fill flash. I had mostly been using aperture priority but have been using manual more lately. But like I said, it depends on what I'm shooting, light conditions, etc.

I shoot essentially in the manual mode (I'm a control freak I guess). For landscape/macro, I use spot metering while for portraits and street scenes, I use center weight or matrix depending on the scene. I use matrix whenever I use the flash unit! I almost always use the AF since I have poor eyesight. The notable exeption is macro photography, and where DOF is crucial to the pic.

Cheers,

Steph.

I shoot fully manual mode when I'm in the mind set of learning, trying to judge the light right and pick the right settings, then see how I did via the histogram. It's like testing myself. I also shoot manual in order to get RAW files ... in which case I usually check the settings in some other mode then switch to manual and plug them in.

Other times I use auto landscape mode ... landscape is probably the auto setting I use most ... and I do that when I'm tired of thinking, and just want to focus on the scene, the right composition, just capturing the scene. I'll use sports mode if it's a moving subject. I like having the option of turning off the techie side of my head and just letting the creative side do its magic.

When I have the time, I'll use both ... capture the jpeg on auto mode, then go into manual mode and experiment. Then later I'll compare the images side-by-side.

Since my camera is an all manual camera, that's all I can shoot in manual mode. But I always use the light meter to get the settings correct.

The way I shoot depends entirely on the camera systeem and subject. However instead of launching off on some overzealous diatribe:

When I shoot with the DSLR's or a system 35mm I almost always shoot Program and employ the Shift or Flexible options. There's always an EV +/- function handy for minor changes in lighting when required or tricky composition like predominantly dark or white background/subject in image. It gets me in the ballpark a lot quicker when using available light. The cameras that have the DOF mode are interesting to use but only with mono/tripod support.

So far I've not been a fan of IS/VS type lenses as for some reason I don't like what I see in the viewfinder, but then again I don't shoot much action or even much of any thing moving very fast that I cannot track or let predictive focus deal with and fix.

For studio/flash etc. I meter, I meter, and then I compare notes with someone else and their measurements! Of course this is usually MF stuff so there's more involved.

I generally avoid any other programmed modes as they never do exactly what I want/think they should. Other than tripod or macro work I always use AF as it is faster than my fingers (usually!) and I can support the camera better.

-CDP

I shoot in manual with a manual camera. About half the time with a meter the rest without.

I bought my K1000 for astrophotography and night work. But, I do occasionally pick it and shoot with it, just for fun!

When I shoot, I try to slowly, steadily raise the weapon to target height, line up my front and rear sights, inhale, and gently squeeze the trigger as I exhale.

(Aperture priority.)


I prefer to exhale then gently squeeze the trigger. ;-)

And a good trigger helps tighten up the groups! :-O

Good to see another Aperture Priority guy in the mix.

I shoot in program mode generally but switch to aperture priority when DOF is important to the shot and shutter priority if I want specific blurring or stop action. I use manual for low light conditions although sometimes I will just use exposure compensation if that will give reasonable settings in program mode. I also vary the exposure by selecting different things to meter on in the frame, sometimes checking the automatic settings and the setting them in manual to free up framing and focusing.

When shooting in Program mode I often look at the settings shown with the shutter half depressed and think about what that will do to the shot.

Where I want highlight detail as well as shadow detail I will set the camera to bracket plus and minus a stop so I will have images to use for digital blending in order to get more exposure latitude.

I use a tripod or monopod frequently because I can no longer hold a camera steady although I have been happy with the IS capability of my current camera and hand hold more often now.

I shoot a lot of different compositions and selective exposures of a subject and choose which shots to use later. (Pretty sloppy, huh? I am sure glad for digital)

One important thing that I do - when I'm done shooting the subject I originally stopped to take, I turn around in a circle and look at everything else around there with a photographer's eye. I also look at things at a different scale from the original subject - if the original was a landscape I look at things in more detail, or if the original subject was a closeup or detail shot I take in a wider view of the setting. A lot of the shots I really like are those second subjects.

But you answered that one anyway!

Obviously, there is no right or wrong answer, I am just curious how folks shoot. I should have asked why, but I was planning on explaining why I shoot like I do after I got some responses.

I think it's great the way you look around you. Sort of like Seb's rainbow shot. Someone shooting a sunset could have easily missed that (someone like me!)

Thanks for the insight my friend. Hopefully, it will help others think about expanding their horizons when they are looking through the viewfinder.

AP mostly ........and I love my 4LB trigger also(hahaha)

Depends what I'm shooting. Mostly aperture priority or manual, and occasionally shutter priority for fill flash. I had mostly been using aperture priority but have been using manual more lately. But like I said, it depends on what I'm shooting, light conditions, etc.

Insightful, as always.

Subject, light, etc, do determine how you shoot.

For me, aperture priority works for how I shoot. Landscapes - dial in a small aperture. Sports - dial in a shallow aperture. Portraits - dial in a small aperture for environmental ones, dial in a shallow aperture for headshots. Aperture priority makes sense to me and is quick and easy to use for my style of shooting.

AP works for me & my camera because of the relatively narrow range aperature range built into it (F2 - F8). In shutter priority it is real easy to "run out" of exposure control in varying light with a fixed shutter speed (in bright ligfht F8 might still be overexposed at my selected shutter speed, or the opposited in dim light, so I found myself spinning the command dial too much) but in AP my shutter speed can be anything from 8sec to 1/2000th so it's more versatile. I find that if I desire a certain amount of motion blur, I can do like you just described, find an aperature setting that's gives me a shutter speed I'm looking for. If that's not working out, then is when I go to manual. Indoors I'm looking for the fastest shutter possible to help eliminate camera shake (when shooting handheld) so I open the aperature wide and leave it.

I shoot just about the same as you do. I'll shoot in manual mode when in conditions where I don't trust the exposure controls in my camera, or when lighting conditions aren't changing.

Cool. Then I'm not odd. ;-)

One of the things I like about aperture priority, is when the shutter speed gets displayed, I know if something is askew. One recent example is shooting my girls playing soccer. When I turned on the camera and focused on the players, I got an unusually high shutter speed. That caught my attention, so I then took notice that most of the grass on the field was brown - LIGHT brown. So I opened up one stop, and shot. It was quick, it was easy, and my images were properly exposed. Works for me.

Thanks for adding your comments. It is interesting seeing how folks shoot, and why they choose to shoot that way.

I shoot essentially in the manual mode (I'm a control freak I guess). For landscape/macro, I use spot metering while for portraits and street scenes, I use center weight or matrix depending on the scene. I use matrix whenever I use the flash unit! I almost always use the AF since I have poor eyesight. The notable exeption is macro photography, and where DOF is crucial to the pic.

Cheers,

Steph.


Control freak? When you've got obsessive/compulsive under your name? ;-)

Hehehe.

To each his own. I own a K1000, and while I bought it for astrophotography and night work, I have been known to pick it up and shoot with it just for fun. :-O

And manual is the ultimate control. You decide how you want the photo to look, and you make it look that way. Thanks for sharing with us.

I shoot fully manual mode when I'm in the mind set of learning, trying to judge the light right and pick the right settings, then see how I did via the histogram. It's like testing myself. I also shoot manual in order to get RAW files ... in which case I usually check the settings in some other mode then switch to manual and plug them in.

Other times I use auto landscape mode ... landscape is probably the auto setting I use most ... and I do that when I'm tired of thinking, and just want to focus on the scene, the right composition, just capturing the scene. I'll use sports mode if it's a moving subject. I like having the option of turning off the techie side of my head and just letting the creative side do its magic.

When I have the time, I'll use both ... capture the jpeg on auto mode, then go into manual mode and experiment. Then later I'll compare the images side-by-side.


Hey Kelly. That is a great way to learn, for sure. It is great trying to judge the light, and making an educated guess at the proper settings. I wasn't even thinking about the cameras that have landscape/sport/portrait/night modes. Perfectly viable options, and definitely what I was asking for. Thanks for playing.

The way I shoot depends entirely on the camera systeem and subject. However instead of launching off on some overzealous diatribe:

When I shoot with the DSLR's or a system 35mm I almost always shoot Program and employ the Shift or Flexible options. There's always an EV +/- function handy for minor changes in lighting when required or tricky composition like predominantly dark or white background/subject in image. It gets me in the ballpark a lot quicker when using available light. The cameras that have the DOF mode are interesting to use but only with mono/tripod support.

(rest removed)

-CDP

I've found that with the D70 I use a lot more automatic functions than on my film cameras. Most of the time I let it set the exposure, choose the colour balance, choose which focussing zone to use - I choose the ISO setting but I let the camera override.

Strangely enough this seems to give the best results. I haven't yet figured out exactly when the camera will screw up. I just know that if I try to give it the wrong instructions, the result is worse, especially with flash.

Charles

Since my camera is an all manual camera, that's all I can shoot in manual mode. But I always use the light meter to get the settings correct.


With his manual weapon! Nothing wrong with manual. I was amazed at how many people still use fully manual camera's. Not that they were anti-auto or anti-digital, they just prefer manual when it matters.

Do you use the camera's meter or do you use a handheld meter? I've found the meter in my K1000 is right on. I also took my handheld meter and checked it against that recently. Reinforced that the camera's meter is indeed accurate.

95% AP with the exception of studio work. In the studio it's 100% manual and external metering.

Do you use the camera's meter or do you use a handheld meter?

I use the camera's meter, don't have a handheld, would like one, but they're expensive, and money is one thing I don't have a lot of right now.

And I love my manual.

Manual, 95% of the time, in concert with a handheld meter.

Apeture Priority most of the time but if I am doing sports I will use manual.

For motorsport, shutter priority, or full manual if I have time to set up a static shot.
For nature, aprture priority, or full manual if I have time to set up a static shot..
For grrab shots wandering about, P with centre weighting using the centre AF spot.
If I ever get time to put it on a tripod, full manual.

I've found that with the D70 I use a lot more automatic functions than on my film cameras. Most of the time I let it set the exposure, choose the colour balance, choose which focussing zone to use - I choose the ISO setting but I let the camera override.

Strangely enough this seems to give the best results. I haven't yet figured out exactly when the camera will screw up. I just know that if I try to give it the wrong instructions, the result is worse, especially with flash.

Charles

Now that is interesting. I would never have guessed you wouldn't have full control with the D70. Have you asked if others have this sort of skewing of their settings?

Thanks for posting. I'm finding this very interesting.

95% AP with the exception of studio work. In the studio it's 100% manual and external metering.


Cool!!!!

"In the studio it's 100% manual and external metering."

Do you not like or trust the auto settings, or do you like having total control over the photographic process?

Thanks for playing along.

AP mostly ........and I love my 4LB trigger also(hahaha)


Another aperture priority guy! Funny that this has never come up in all our exchanges, posts, emails, etc. Now I know!

Got to love adjustable triggers. All my Winchesters are set to 4 pounds. My Ruger Mark II came with a 3 pound trigger, and I love it! It is a target model after all...

I CAN shoot in any mode, but AP gives me the desired SPEED/ DOF I desire. Personally, I see no reason to use my camera as a P&S, but admittedly have a few times ;)

OK 3 LB trigger one up me guy, my MP5 has a selector on it and I can pull the trigger once and spray :D

Hi Speed, I'm hooked on AP auto. I thought I'd like a fully manual system so I bought a Bessa R, L and a couple of lenses (21/4, 35/2.5). It wasn't only to try fully manual. I was wondering what the rage was about rangefinders. I've concluded that they aren't as versitle as an SLR but they are compact and light and do work well at slower shutter speeds. However I was never quite ready with the camera for the shot. Just setting the aperture and focusing are enough steps for me to deal with. A few years ago I decided I needed an upgrade in my equipment. I was using my ancient Nikon FE. I was lured in by the temptations of auto focus, matrix metering and the like. So I bought an F4. I think my photography actually suffered because of it. I'm not slamming the camera. It's a great tool. I just think it offers too many options for my simple needs. The simplicity of AP Auto is the only mode I use.

manual unless I am just taking snapshots. Then i used Program. maybe like 5% of the time I use apertuve priority of shutter priority. The only time that happens is when I have a ton of light to work with and I am shooting sports. but even then, i prefer manual.

I would say that it's manual for me 98% of the time. Not so much because I'm a control freek, but because it is such a great learning tool. Recently I have been using AP a little more often and I like that too. It really speeds things along when you are hiking with someone who doesn't have a lot of patients. :D

Aperture Priority...
unless I am trying to stop motion, then
Shutter Priority...
unless I am using my flash, then
Manual...
unless I am in a hurry, then
Program...
unless I am trying to control DOF, then
Aperture Priority...
unless...

full manual 100% i have no other choice.
guesstimate exposure or handheld meter
one 35mm f2 prime lens

I use AP if I don't have a lot of time to get a shot off. But I'm trying to get in the habit of using manual, along with using MF as well...

Now that is interesting. I would never have guessed you wouldn't have full control with the D70. Have you asked if others have this sort of skewing of their settings?

Thanks for posting. I'm finding this very interesting.He does have full control of the D70. He use that full control to use some of the choices available that set his camera up in certain ways. Seems to me like he has at least as much control of his camera as someone who only uses one setting. I've never quite understood the idea that the best way to control your expensive highly technical tool is to turn off most of its features. As long as the instrament is set to record the desired image, I don't think one method of getting it set is more or less in control than another.

AP works for me & my camera because of the relatively narrow range aperature range built into it (F2 - F8). In shutter priority it is real easy to "run out" of exposure control in varying light with a fixed shutter speed (in bright ligfht F8 might still be overexposed at my selected shutter speed, or the opposited in dim light, so I found myself spinning the command dial too much) but in AP my shutter speed can be anything from 8sec to 1/2000th so it's more versatile. I find that if I desire a certain amount of motion blur, I can do like you just described, find an aperature setting that's gives me a shutter speed I'm looking for. If that's not working out, then is when I go to manual. Indoors I'm looking for the fastest shutter possible to help eliminate camera shake (when shooting handheld) so I open the aperature wide and leave it.

We are definitely two of a kind! I got turned on to Aperture Priority after reading John Shaw's Field Guide To Landscape Photography. He cites the same reasons you do - In low light, open the apeture all the way and shoot! It's rare you'll run out of shutter speed, but you can definitely run out of aperture!

As long as the instrament is set to record the desired image, I don't think one method of getting it set is more or less in control than another.

I disagree with that...the evaluative metering and program modes are very easily fooled. Yes, aperture and shutter priority just as much as AP. And many times the moment is gone before the histogram even comes up to check the exposure. Knowing how to meter and using manual mode not only save time, they also increase the quality of the images.

I disagree with that...the evaluative metering and program modes are very easily fooled.
That's kind of where I've been lately. I took a workshop a few years ago with a guy who shot a Nikon F5. He used it manual with spot meter the whole time (shooting slides) and I couldn't figure out why. I mean, that was supposed to be the best, most foolproof metering system out there. Why would you need to think about metering with a camera like that? Well, truth is that it doesn't always work that way. Matrix (Evaluative) is a lot better than center weighted in tricky light but far from perfect. Using manual with the spot meter, you know exactly what the slide will look like when you get it back from the lab. No bracketing, just right the first time.

I don't always work this way because it's one more thing to think about, and I don't think it's always necessary. Again - depends on what I'm shooting and what the light is like.

I disagree with that...the evaluative metering and program modes are very easily fooled. Yes, aperture and shutter priority just as much as AP. And many times the moment is gone before the histogram even comes up to check the exposure. Knowing how to meter and using manual mode not only save time, they also increase the quality of the images. You are right in this....for you and your way of shooting. I also do not like evaluative metering and have my camera set for spot metering. But to imply that Franglais' beautiful shots are coming from someone who's not in full control of what gets taken is a stretch. I think that incorporating use of automatic features into one's work habits is every bit as valid as me making my choices and you making yours. Again - if the camera is set to capture the preconceived image correctly, who ever is running that camera is in full control, IMHO.

I shoot mostly in automatic but almost as much I use manual either focusing, WB, shutter speed, appeture, or whatever I think I need.

As for shooting. I'm always looking at things from a differnt perspective, I stalk my images..

My camera is a great beginners learning tool. It's the Sony DSC-F828, all in one, but with SLR type controls. The cool thing for learning about exposure is that you (or at least I) can frame the shots on the LCD screen with all the exposure settings and histogram dynamically displayed. As you pan through a room you can watch the shutter speed and histogram change as your view falls on differntly lit objects.

That being said, I am more than ready for a DSLR (I've been shooting w/my sony for a little over a year). I just need to get my wallet ready....

Well, this has gone on long enough without me piping up. I know, I know, "Shut up already, Outdoorsman." :rolleyes:
I use whatever mode is appropriate. There's no right mode for all situations. Because I do a lot of hand-held photography I tend to use TV, just to be sure the shutter is overcoming camera shake. On the tripod, it's whatever mode works best. Manual, AV, and TV are all I use, however. I have not once used the Program modes in the year I've been shooting this camera (Canon Elan 7N). Those modes would drive me crazy, with the flash popping up half the time and all kinds of settings coming up that I want to change but can't. I need more control! All those modes do is what we the photographers would know to do anyway. I wonder what they could have given the camera instead of pointless auto modes...

I do regular checks on manual versus AV or TV and the settings are identical in controlled lighting. There's really no reason to primarily use one or the other, I say, unless you need a specific shutter speed or aperture setting. And for metering... I don't spot meter much because this camera's spot meter is like 10% of the frame-- waaay too much for a good reading. But I also have had more ruined shots by using center-weighted metering than with matrix. Matrix metering has done well for me in almost all situations. Any times it didn't were my fault for not recognizing a tricky scene and adjusting appropriately....

I haven't had my Canon 10D off on anything else but Manual (unless by accident - which will freak you the F out sometimes) since 3 weeks after I bought it last Spring. I like the learning and the control of it.

Specifically, what mode do you use the most?

I do the majority of my shooting in Apeture Priority. Probably 95% of the time.
I occasionally shoot in Manual Mode, maybe 4% of the time.
It's rare, but I sometimes shoot in Shutter Priority for flash syncronization purposes, maybe 1% of the time.
I do not use Program mode anymore.

So, how do you shoot?

Aperture priority 95% of the time (but with my thumb on the back wheel for manual override and exposure compensation-I don't trust my camera's meter that much in any mode), metered manual or shutter priority the other 5% of the time. In the studio, 100% manual.

Manual, 95% of the time, in concert with a handheld meter.


Interesting. Very interesting. You've got a modern, digital camera, and shoot primararly manual. I would not have thought that.

Do you shoot that way for the total control, or do you not trust the camera to get it right? Just curious.

Apeture Priority most of the time but if I am doing sports I will use manual.

Thanks for playing along. I'm enjoying seeing how many people shoot in Aperture Priority mode.

I'm curious to see that you shoot in manual mode for sports. Please elaborate on that for me. Please.

manual unless I am just taking snapshots. Then i used Program. maybe like 5% of the time I use apertuve priority of shutter priority. The only time that happens is when I have a ton of light to work with and I am shooting sports. but even then, i prefer manual.

I've got to admit, that I'm surprised by how many people shoot in manual mode. Nothing wrong with that, I just find it interesting. What gear do you shoot with?

I would say that it's manual for me 98% of the time. Not so much because I'm a control freek, but because it is such a great learning tool. Recently I have been using AP a little more often and I like that too. It really speeds things along when you are hiking with someone who doesn't have a lot of patients. :D


Another manual guy. You are right about it being a great learning tool. It also helps you learn light.

I agree that Aperture Priority helps speed things along. Maybe that's part of why I like it so much. I also never worry about running out of shutter speed. But since I don't have that 80-200mm f2.8 (yet), or that 300mm f2.8, or that 400mm f2.8, (you get the idea), I do worry about running out of aperture when the light gets low.

Thanks for participating.

Now that is interesting. I would never have guessed you wouldn't have full control with the D70. Have you asked if others have this sort of skewing of their settings?

Thanks for posting. I'm finding this very interesting.

I'm going to have to explain some of the cases that made me choose full automatic with the D70. BTW in the studio I use full manual with my strobes.

1. Landscapes on a dull day

I've tried to set the white balance myself so that it looks right but I've realised that the camera gets it closer than I do. I've now gone over to shooting RAW for landscapes.

2. SB800 Flash with off-center subject:

With a film camera I set the camera on manual to underexpose the room by about 1/2 stop, use the center focussing zone to prefocus on the subject at left and let the OTF metering in the body and the film's overexposure latitude give me a scene where the subject is correctly lit and the background fades away.

I tried this with the D70 and it would overexpose the flash because it thinks the subject is in the center. I tried using the flash memory function but it wasn't very consistent. I figured I had to set the ISO so that the room is correctly exposed and make sure that the camera knew where the subject was so I tried using the touchpad to set the focussing zone but finally I let the camera find the subject itself and it works fine.

Charles

Specifically, what mode do you use the most?

I do the majority of my shooting in Apeture Priority. Probably 95% of the time.
I occasionally shoot in Manual Mode, maybe 4% of the time.
It's rare, but I sometimes shoot in Shutter Priority for flash syncronization purposes, maybe 1% of the time.
I do not use Program mode anymore.

So, how do you shoot? Manual everything. The mode dial on my D30 never spins. Unless of course I am bored and using it to keep the rhythm in my head.

Manual exposure, manual flash compensation, coustom white balence. The only time I would even begin to consider another mode is when I am shooting action, but I don't do that very much, it's not really my thing, but when I do I usaully think about throwing it into Tv, or Av. I always end up staying in manual anyway though...:rolleyes:

I started shooting in manual when my father gave me his Pentax ME Super. It wasn't a strictly DIY camera, but the other modes were just to difficult to use and they only worked with certain lenses. Before then I used a Rebel G first in P and after the pentax I started playing with it in manual, but it had a doofy control setup that made it a pain in the ass to get anything done in a resasonable amount of time, so I switched to Av. I used that setting 85% of the time after that with all my AF SLR's until I got my Maxxum 7. I started out with it in Av, but I never got the results I was looking for like I had before with my EOS cameras, so I just went all manual, sans MF.

The bottom line is this, I have tried the other modes, and I just don't get what I want when I use them. Now I don't even always get what I want in manual, but I get it a hell of a lot more than not.

Interesting. Very interesting. You've got a modern, digital camera, and shoot primararly manual. I would not have thought that.

Do you shoot that way for the total control, or do you not trust the camera to get it right? Just curious.

I use manual because it's the only way to get reliable, consistent metering. One thing that people don't seem to realize is that Full Program is no different from shutter or aperture priority, it's still the computer doing the thinking, it's just that you're locking down one of the variables. If I set the aperture in aperture priority, the exposure might still be just as wrong as it would be in program, and the shot might be just as useless. A handheld meter gives me a great reading, and when I move and the lighting changes I just adjust the exposure from experience. If suddenly clouds roll in, I just take another reading and adjust accordingly. This way I can frame however I want, no matter if I'm really close to a bright object or if there's a lot of dark in the background, my exposure stays the same for the subject I choose. So is it control? I don't think so, I think it's my need for consistency. Yes, control has something to do with it, but it's much more about getting great results and being able to depend on that.

Unless the scene is neutral grey, the in-camera meter, no matter how good, will never expose the way I can or choose to using a handheld. Unless of course I use the built-in "spot" and manually meter. Granted, the 10% version that Canon calls a spot is less useful than a true spot, but it's still very effective.

The shot below was not metered. The light was coming in from her right, slightly behind. I metered for the light further away, looking to her left, for some other protesters. The sun was behind me. I shot those protesters and I moved further down the street, and I saw her holding up the sign. I knew that the light is no longer behind me, so I dropped the shutter by a stop and the exposure is perfect. Almost no highlight is blown, with the exception of some specular highlights on her knuckles and glasses. Neither is any shadow blocked up. I didn't have to do any levels adjustment on this image, it was as-is right out of the camera, just cropped to be a composition that I like better.

A modern, digital camera is just as stupid as anything else. Nothing out there is smarter than experience and knowing what you want to achieve, no matter how much it cost or how many "zones" it meters.

http://www.cmcpics.com/protest.jpg

Sebastian, I just LOVE this shot!!!!!! What a story!

I use manual because it's the only way to get reliable, consistent metering. One thing that people don't seem to realize is that Full Program is no different from shutter or aperture priority, it's still the computer doing the thinking, it's just that you're locking down one of the variables. If I set the aperture in aperture priority, the exposure might still be just as wrong as it would be in program, and the shot might be just as useless. A handheld meter gives me a great reading, and when I move and the lighting changes I just adjust the exposure from experience. If suddenly clouds roll in, I just take another reading and adjust accordingly. This way I can frame however I want, no matter if I'm really close to a bright object or if there's a lot of dark in the background, my exposure stays the same for the subject I choose. So is it control? I don't think so, I think it's my need for consistency. Yes, control has something to do with it, but it's much more about getting great results and being able to depend on that.

Unless the scene is neutral grey, the in-camera meter, no matter how good, will never expose the way I can or choose to using a handheld. Unless of course I use the built-in "spot" and manually meter. Granted, the 10% version that Canon calls a spot is less useful than a true spot, but it's still very effective.

The shot below was not metered. The light was coming in from her right, slightly behind. I metered for the light further away, looking to her left, for some other protesters. The sun was behind me. I shot those protesters and I moved further down the street, and I saw her holding up the sign. I knew that the light is no longer behind me, so I dropped the shutter by a stop and the exposure is perfect. Almost no highlight is blown, with the exception of some specular highlights on her knuckles and glasses. Neither is any shadow blocked up. I didn't have to do any levels adjustment on this image, it was as-is right out of the camera, just cropped to be a composition that I like better.

A modern, digital camera is just as stupid as anything else. Nothing out there is smarter than experience and knowing what you want to achieve, no matter how much it cost or how many "zones" it meters.


Awesome answer my friend!

"A modern, digital camera is just as stupid as anything else."

Right on again. A camera doesn't take a picture - the photographer does. The camera is merely the lightbox holding the recording medium.

OK, Sebastian is hereby, and forever after, known as Yoda. He's short, wise, and shares what he knows for the forces of good! ;-)

Now here's a product I've never seen on the market, a 100% manual DSLR. How much money could you knock out of a 20D if you dumped ALL the automatic features and metering hardware/software programing time. Or, if you kept the price the same but put all the resources into increasing both build construction and image quality.

It's like buying a car, all the options come in packages. You want the CD player, you need the power windows, doors, cruise control, etc....

In the studio, all manual. Shooting sports, Shutter Priority. Everything else, whatever comes to my head but mostly all manual.

My D2h is on Manual 100% of the time. After using it for a while I found I was able to memorise most exposures for most exposure situations. Whenever I leave a room, go outside, go inside I set my cameras meter for the scene I am entering, and this way I can always grab a shot within a seconds notice, and not have to worry about a backlite window or something throwing it off.
Actually I lied, I shoot sports on Aperature priority at 2.8 on cloudy days when the exposure is constantly changing.

cheers,
Trevor

I shoot mostly in automatic but almost as much I use manual either focusing, WB, shutter speed, appeture, or whatever I think I need.

As for shooting. I'm always looking at things from a differnt perspective, I stalk my images..


I love it!

What an apt description of photography - done deliberatly!

In the studio, all manual. Shooting sports, Shutter Priority. Everything else, whatever comes to my head but mostly all manual.


I see a trend here....

;-)

"Everything else, whatever comes to my head..."

Hehehe.

To each his own. Something to be said for being spontaneous. Helps to get the creative juices flowing.

Thanks for participating in the discussion.

Well, this has gone on long enough without me piping up. I know, I know, "Shut up already, Outdoorsman." :rolleyes:
I use whatever mode is appropriate. There's no right mode for all situations. Because I do a lot of hand-held photography I tend to use TV, just to be sure the shutter is overcoming camera shake. On the tripod, it's whatever mode works best. Manual, AV, and TV are all I use, however. I have not once used the Program modes in the year I've been shooting this camera (Canon Elan 7N). Those modes would drive me crazy, with the flash popping up half the time and all kinds of settings coming up that I want to change but can't. I need more control! All those modes do is what we the photographers would know to do anyway. I wonder what they could have given the camera instead of pointless auto modes...

I do regular checks on manual versus AV or TV and the settings are identical in controlled lighting. There's really no reason to primarily use one or the other, I say, unless you need a specific shutter speed or aperture setting. And for metering... I don't spot meter much because this camera's spot meter is like 10% of the frame-- waaay too much for a good reading. But I also have had more ruined shots by using center-weighted metering than with matrix. Matrix metering has done well for me in almost all situations. Any times it didn't were my fault for not recognizing a tricky scene and adjusting appropriately....

Touche'!

I think as photographers, we should all use whatever mode is appropriate. I suppose the real question is, which mode do you prefer, or even if you have a preference?

I also agree that matrix metering is the best all-around metering. And like you, when it gets fooled, I blame myself for not recognizing the lighting circumstances that I know will fool the meter, and then making the appropriate adjustments.

Thanks for playing along!

I haven't had my Canon 10D off on anything else but Manual (unless by accident - which will freak you the F out sometimes) since 3 weeks after I bought it last Spring. I like the learning and the control of it.

Nothing wrong with that!

One could make the arguement that we'd all be better photographers if we shot manual all the time.

full manual 100% i have no other choice.
guesstimate exposure or handheld meter
one 35mm f2 prime lens

Guesstimate exposure - I think that's called learning the light. ;-)

Handheld meter's are great. I recently got one, and while I normally don't use it much, it's nice to have around. I see using it with my K1000 a lot in the future.

One 35mm f2 prime lens. Now all you need is a 50mm f1.4 prime lens and you're set! OK, a 200mm f2.8 would be nice...

Thanks for your input. I've really enjoyed reading about how folks shoot.

I use AP if I don't have a lot of time to get a shot off. But I'm trying to get in the habit of using manual, along with using MF as well...


Nikon Samurai and an aperture priority shooter as well. I'm liking you more everyday! ;-)

Using manual is a very useful skill to develop. I get out the K1000 every now and then just because. I figure it can only help my photographic skills.

Aperture Priority...
unless I am trying to stop motion, then
Shutter Priority...
unless I am using my flash, then
Manual...
unless I am in a hurry, then
Program...
unless I am trying to control DOF, then
Aperture Priority...
unless...


I like your answer. Kind of a verbose way of saying "it depends".

;-)

OK, maybe I've got a warped sense of humor, but I still like it!

The way I shoot depends entirely on the camera systeem and subject. However instead of launching off on some overzealous diatribe:

When I shoot with the DSLR's or a system 35mm I almost always shoot Program and employ the Shift or Flexible options. There's always an EV +/- function handy for minor changes in lighting when required or tricky composition like predominantly dark or white background/subject in image. It gets me in the ballpark a lot quicker when using available light. The cameras that have the DOF mode are interesting to use but only with mono/tripod support.

So far I've not been a fan of IS/VS type lenses as for some reason I don't like what I see in the viewfinder, but then again I don't shoot much action or even much of any thing moving very fast that I cannot track or let predictive focus deal with and fix.

For studio/flash etc. I meter, I meter, and then I compare notes with someone else and their measurements! Of course this is usually MF stuff so there's more involved.

I generally avoid any other programmed modes as they never do exactly what I want/think they should. Other than tripod or macro work I always use AF as it is faster than my fingers (usually!) and I can support the camera better.

-CDP

I can accept that. ;-)

I'm surprised to see that you don't care much for IS/VR type lenses. I've never used one, but everyone I know that's used one loved it. Curious.

"I generally avoid any other programmed modes as they never do exactly what I want/think they should." That's all the reason you need not to use them!

Thanks for responding to the post!

Hi Speed, I'm hooked on AP auto. I thought I'd like a fully manual system so I bought a Bessa R, L and a couple of lenses (21/4, 35/2.5). It wasn't only to try fully manual. I was wondering what the rage was about rangefinders. I've concluded that they aren't as versitle as an SLR but they are compact and light and do work well at slower shutter speeds. However I was never quite ready with the camera for the shot. Just setting the aperture and focusing are enough steps for me to deal with. A few years ago I decided I needed an upgrade in my equipment. I was using my ancient Nikon FE. I was lured in by the temptations of auto focus, matrix metering and the like. So I bought an F4. I think my photography actually suffered because of it. I'm not slamming the camera. It's a great tool. I just think it offers too many options for my simple needs. The simplicity of AP Auto is the only mode I use.

I understand entirely! Aperture Priority meets my needs, and is quick to use. I'm a firm believer in Keeping It Simple!

Thanks for playing along!

I understand entirely! Aperture Priority meets my needs, and is quick to use. I'm a firm believer in Keeping It Simple!

Thanks for playing along!


Speed, this has been a great thread!! Thanks for getting it started and keeping up the matienance on it. I had not responded until now mainly because I don't use just one method. I use all the controls that Nikon put on the camera and use what ever I think is appropriate for the situation I am shooting under. I will say that on the cameras that have them I have never used the pre programed situation settings (what ever they are called). Other than that they are all used when I feel they are appropriate. See, that's why I hadn't posted pretty boring answer.

Speed, this has been a great thread!! Thanks for getting it started and keeping up the matienance on it. I had not responded until now mainly because I don't use just one method. I use all the controls that Nikon put on the camera and use what ever I think is appropriate for the situation I am shooting under. I will say that on the cameras that have them I have never used the pre programed situation settings (what ever they are called). Other than that they are all used when I feel they are appropriate. See, that's why I hadn't posted pretty boring answer.


I'm glad you've enjoyed the thread. I've found it quite interesting.

You answer is similar to a couple of others - whatever the situation calls for. Some folks shoot like that. Some prefer shutter priority, some like aperture priority, and some prefer program mode, though they tend to modify it and not shoot the straight settings.

Obviously, there is no right or wrong answer. Everyone shoots how they are comfortable shooting. For me, aperture priority takes care of the bulk of my needs. I'm comfortable with it, and I trust my camera's meters to give me the correct exposure. And in situations where I know the light/scene/etc is going to "trick" the meter, then I dial in exposure compensation. Works for me.

Thanks for participating, and I'm really glad that you have enjoyed this as well.

For motorsport, shutter priority, or full manual if I have time to set up a static shot.
For nature, aprture priority, or full manual if I have time to set up a static shot..
For grrab shots wandering about, P with centre weighting using the centre AF spot.
If I ever get time to put it on a tripod, full manual.


I like it! It embodies what a lot of us seem to feel is true photography.

Use whatever mode works best for the given situation. And if you have the luxury of time, then do it manually. A camera should work for you. Use it to it's maximum capabilities. OK, maybe I got carried away, but that's how I read your answer. :-)

Hi Speed:

I use my handheld meter, manual settings on the camera, and manual focus, but I do use one of the in camera sharpening settings because I just like the way it works. I've tried shooting in AP and SP and both work, but -- (you don't know how I hate to admit this) I'm an old dog that's not much for new tricks.

And, although you told me not to say it, I'm going to say it anyway because its the truth -- I ALWAYS shoot in the RAW!!! :p I post process using Adobe Photoshop CS on either a Mac or PC and I print out using the Epson 2200 or R800 printers.

Another secret -- my favorite subject is NOT landscapes (GASP!!) its Gene! ;)

My Very Best to You,
Penny


Now Penny, you know what it does to me when you talk like that! ;-)

Old Dog my foot!!!! Shooting fully manual is a perfectly legitimate method. Re-read this post - lots of guys and gals are shooting fully manual. Even some of those with modern digital cameras prefer to shoot fully manual. So enough old dog talk.

"Another secret -- my favorite subject is NOT landscapes (GASP!!) its Gene! ;) "

I'm guessing most of those are not suitable for general audiences? ;-)

I've said all along that Dawn is My Favorite Subject. I've even got a folder in my computer with that name for photo's of her! So I'm with you girl. :-D

Aperture priority 95% of the time (but with my thumb on the back wheel for manual override and exposure compensation-I don't trust my camera's meter that much in any mode), metered manual or shutter priority the other 5% of the time. In the studio, 100% manual.


Hey Lionheart,

Great to see another Aperture Priority guy! And I usually have my finger near the exposure comp dial as well! I trust my meter, and I usually know when I need to add or subtract some exposure. If I get an exposure that's off, I blame myself for not reading the light or scene properly.

100% manual in the studio seems to be the norm. Don't blame you a bit.

Thanks for commenting and letting us know how you shoot!

Manual everything. The mode dial on my D30 never spins. Unless of course I am bored and using it to keep the rhythm in my head.

Manual exposure, manual flash compensation, coustom white balence. The only time I would even begin to consider another mode is when I am shooting action, but I don't do that very much, it's not really my thing, but when I do I usaully think about throwing it into Tv, or Av. I always end up staying in manual anyway though...:rolleyes:

I started shooting in manual when my father gave me his Pentax ME Super. It wasn't a strictly DIY camera, but the other modes were just to difficult to use and they only worked with certain lenses. Before then I used a Rebel G first in P and after the pentax I started playing with it in manual, but it had a doofy control setup that made it a pain in the ass to get anything done in a resasonable amount of time, so I switched to Av. I used that setting 85% of the time after that with all my AF SLR's until I got my Maxxum 7. I started out with it in Av, but I never got the results I was looking for like I had before with my EOS cameras, so I just went all manual, sans MF.

The bottom line is this, I have tried the other modes, and I just don't get what I want when I use them. Now I don't even always get what I want in manual, but I get it a hell of a lot more than not.

"...but I get it a hell of a lot more than not."

That's what photography is all about - to me. Getting the results you want. How you get them is as varied as the camera models available, but as long as you get what you're after, that's what matters.

This has been a very interesting, and eye opening post. I'm surprised that practically everyone shoots 100% manual in the studio. That floored me. I expect it out of the old heads that still use their FE's or AE-1's. I was NOT expecting it out of digital shooters.

I've also been taken aback by how many folks with full auto everything, more modes than you will use, latest technology digital camera shooters, shoot in mostly or fully manual mode. Maybe those photog's have gotten to the point in their photography where they know what they want and how to get it. But it strikes me as curious that it's mostly digital shooters doing that. Makes me wonder if there's something about digital that just doesn't give the photographer what he or she really wants. OK, I'm rambling now, so I'll shut up.

Thanks for playing along, and thanks for the insight into how you shoot. I've gotten more than I expected out of this post, and it's been very gratifying and educational.

My D2h is on Manual 100% of the time. After using it for a while I found I was able to memorise most exposures for most exposure situations. Whenever I leave a room, go outside, go inside I set my cameras meter for the scene I am entering, and this way I can always grab a shot within a seconds notice, and not have to worry about a backlite window or something throwing it off.
Actually I lied, I shoot sports on Aperature priority at 2.8 on cloudy days when the exposure is constantly changing.

cheers,
Trevor


Yee haa!

I like your reasoning. Very logical choice.

"I shoot sports on Aperature priority at 2.8 on cloudy days when the exposure is constantly changing."

Again, logical choice, and one of the reasons I shoot on Aperture Priority most of the time. Except I usually shoot on f4. I don't have a f2.8 telephoto zoom - yet!

Thanks for your comments. I do appreciate all the input!

It totally depends on what camera I am using:

Pentax *istDS - Manual 75%, aperture priority 20%, with liberal use of bracketing and the EV compensation (both ways) when using aperture priority. Spot metering or Matrix, depending on what I'm looking for. Occationally shutters priority. I've tried out Program and the presets, but no thanks.

Pentax K-1000 - yeah, I think this one's a given. I do not use a hand held meter. If I were going to spend money on an upgraded meter, I would by a Pentax LX.

Bentley - It has 4 apertures (between 6 and 16, all represented with pictures of weather phases) and a set shutter speed, which I estimate to be between 1/60 and 1/100. What's amazing is that with a good, large latitude B&W the photos turn out amazingly well exposed and that little, plastic lens gives me some really sharp stuff.

It totally depends on what camera I am using:

Pentax *istDS - Manual 75%, aperture priority 20%, with liberal use of bracketing and the EV compensation (both ways) when using aperture priority. Spot metering or Matrix, depending on what I'm looking for. Occationally shutters priority. I've tried out Program and the presets, but no thanks.

Pentax K-1000 - yeah, I think this one's a given. I do not use a hand held meter. If I were going to spend money on an upgraded meter, I would by a Pentax LX.

Bentley - It has 4 apertures (between 6 and 16, all represented with pictures of weather phases) and a set shutter speed, which I estimate to be between 1/60 and 1/100. What's amazing is that with a good, large latitude B&W the photos turn out amazingly well exposed and that little, plastic lens gives me some really sharp stuff.


Hey Tijean, thanks for playing.

Nice variety of camera's you've got there! Well, I'd say that with the *istDS, you're right in line with most of the digital shooters. And most everyone, myself included, uses EV liberally when shooting in a preset mode, such as Aperture Priority.

Also seems like most people either have, or have had, a K1000. They are great camera's! I'm not familiar with the Pentax LX meter. I'll have to look into that one. I've got a Sekonic L508. Got it as part of a package deal, so it wasn't like I went looking for it. I do like it though!

I"ve heard of the Bentley, but I've never seen one. Sounds interesting.

I'm not familiar with the Pentax LX meter. I'll have to look into that one. They are a little large for a hand held meter, but they do have a lot of features.:D

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/pentaxlx/

They are a little large for a hand held meter, but they do have a lot of features.:D

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/pentaxlx/


Very interesting.

I had never heard of it before.

They are a little large for a hand held meter, but they do have a lot of features.:D

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/pentaxlx/

LOL. Well, the SO does occational use me and the K-1000 as a heldheld meter when shooting with a Kodak Retina or the Moskva. Hey honey, what're you shooting at?

Speed, the meter is rather legendary, as they can change the exposure halfway in. Say you're shooting an off street light at dusk. The camera has set the shutter speed to 3 seconds. The light comes on a moment after the shutter is released. The camera recalculates the time based on the new situation and closes the shutter at, say, 1.83 seconds. This sounds pretty silly to the normal, daylight shooter, but it is an absolute miracle for the night shooter or light painter. People who shoot trains and concerts are also fond of them. They were good enough to still be in production in 1997, even though they were manual focus, and even the ones made in 1980 still sell for around $500.

So far on the N80 I've shot 11 rolls, 2 b/w the rest color- and I've shot almost all of that in Aperature Priority. I think of the 11 rolls I've done only a handful in Manual mode.
I havent even touched the Programmed settings, or the Shutter Priority yet.

When I was shooting on the Fujifinepix it was always in Manual (and even then the settings were limited), with Sports mode as an exception when shooting the soccer games.

On my old Olympus always Manual.

Manual 100% of the time when using my Canon TLb and Seagull. Program mode when I am using the Canon A80. Trying to do manual with the A80 is a pain so I don't even try. Now the Seagull on the other hand, is very fun to shoot with.

Dzerzhinski