On April 8th, about half of the United States will get to see a partial solar eclipse. So get out your camera, your favorite long lens, and a safe solar filter.

For those who don't have a solar filter, you can get a ND400 filter (B&H has them) which will reduce the light by nine stops. A typical telescope solar filter reduces the light by about seven stops, so a ND400 is safe to use.

You can also stack ND filters, for a total reduction of at least seven stops. Just don't stack too many as image quality will start to suffer. (CPL's will also work as one of those in the stack.)

For more information on the eclipse, check out Sky and Telescope's article at:

http://skyandtelescope.com/observing/objects/eclipses/article_1445_1.asp

Cool! Hey Speed, a few questions:

On the east coast/area, will the sun set before totality? Or will the eclipse end before the sun sets?

If I use Velvia 50 and stop a lens down to f32, is that sufficient? That's as good as I can get with what I've got, without spending money LOL

Thanks!

Rick

Cool! Hey Speed, a few questions:

On the east coast/area, will the sun set before totality? Or will the eclipse end before the sun sets?

If I use Velvia 50 and stop a lens down to f32, is that sufficient? That's as good as I can get with what I've got, without spending money LOL

Thanks!

Rick


We won't get to see totality in North America. All we will see is a slice of the sun "missing". There may be some visible diming, but I'm not sure about that. (It's a small slice.) Also, if you check out the Sky and Telescope link, they have a chart showing approximate times when it begins and ends. We got to Standard Eastern Time the morning of the second, so it should occur and hour or more before sundown.

I usually shoot with 400 speed film @ 1/250th to 1/500th second - with the solar filter over my telescope. Using Velvia 50 gets you three stops. Using f32 gets you three stops (my Celestron is a f10 lens). So I suppose if you shoot at 1/1000th of a second and faster, you should get useable images. However, I would NOT look through the viewfinder to frame it. You'll need to manually focus your lens at infinity, and look at the shadow to determine if the camera is lined up properly.

Also if you have a CPL, then mount it and crank it up. That'll get you two stops, and provide some measure of protection for your camera's insides (mirror, sensors, etc.)

So what lens are you thinking of using?

Hey Speedo. Almost missed your response!

Thanks for the great information. I had looked at the chart from your link and had guessed it would start before sunset - if weather provides I'm heading for the Blue Ridge to catch an eclipse sun set :) Could be cool!

I want to use my 180 2.8! OUCH what a lens! I could always double it to get more detail from the sun. But I'm looking to put it in a natural context, ie sunset :) Imagine it: a partially-eclipsed sun darkened by the evening haze, sitting on the horizon of the east coast's blue ridge mountains... mmm!

Thanks again for the help!

Good luck this Friday! They're callin for Tstroms but I don't care! Throw a lightening bolt into my shot I'm all for it!

Rick

Hey Speedo. Almost missed your response!

Thanks for the great information. I had looked at the chart from your link and had guessed it would start before sunset - if weather provides Could be cool!

I want to use my 180 2.8! OUCH what a lens! I could always double it to get more detail from the sun. But I'm looking to put it in a natural context, ie sunset :) Imagine it: a partially-eclipsed sun darkened by the evening haze, sitting on the horizon of the east coast's blue ridge mountains... mmm!

Thanks again for the help!

Good luck this Friday! They're callin for Tstroms but I don't care! Throw a lightening bolt into my shot I'm all for it!

Rick

Now I'm jealous!!!

Hope you get some great shots buddy!

I'm going out of town Friday morning, but as soon as I get home (hopefully around 5:00) I'm breaking out the Celestron and solar filter and I'm going to shoot the eclipse - weather permitting.

Good luck with the weather in the Blue Ridge!

"Good luck with the weather in the Blue Ridge!"

Ack, now they're just calling for rain all day :( Bummer.

Rick, I don't think (correct me if I'm wrong, Speed) that it's the film speed and aperture you need to worry about. You need the ND filtering for looking thru the viewfinder - you're looking at the sun! I suppose even with the filtering, you could use a moderate aperture and keep the DOF preview button pressed. Never tried doing this though - but I figured the DOF trick out with long lenses and sunsets...:rolleyes:

Actually with all that filtering, I think that ISO400 like Speed uses would be a good choice.

You're right, I don't know what I was thinking when I asked that :rolleyes: The aperature doesn't matter of course I can just use smaller shutter speeds to have the same effect.

Steve, I've used that technique before :) Holding in the DOF preview button to see the sun during sunsets. Might not be safe, but it works (also helps to squint your eyes, also letting in less light) Great minds, eh? :)

Rick, I don't think (correct me if I'm wrong, Speed) that it's the film speed and aperture you need to worry about. You need the ND filtering for looking thru the viewfinder - you're looking at the sun! I suppose even with the filtering, you could use a moderate aperture and keep the DOF preview button pressed. Never tried doing this though - but I figured the DOF trick out with long lenses and sunsets...:rolleyes:

Actually with all that filtering, I think that ISO400 like Speed uses would be a good choice.


When I told Rick that reducing the aperture, using a fast shutter speed and using a slower film would get him there, I was referring to the exposure. I did tell him NOT to look through the viewfinder, to use the shadow of his camer to line up the sun. Also, I did mention the possibility of it damaging his sensor/meters/other internal parts. Using the DOF preview is an awesome idea!!!!

No one should EVER look directly at the sun with the naked eye, and doing so with any lens that magnifies that (telephoto, binoculars, telescope) is asking to be blinded.

You are wise beyond your years!

You're right, I don't know what I was thinking when I asked that :rolleyes: The aperature doesn't matter of course I can just use smaller shutter speeds to have the same effect.

Steve, I've used that technique before :) Holding in the DOF preview button to see the sun during sunsets. Might not be safe, but it works (also helps to squint your eyes, also letting in less light) Great minds, eh? :)

I suppose we should phrase things a little more carefully. As I mentioned to Steve, when we were referring to small apertures, fast shutter speeds, and slow films, we were talking about getting the proper EXPOSURE. Has nothing whatsoever to do with LOOKING at the sun. No one should look directly at the sun, as it can cause eye damage. And never, ever, look at the sun through a telephoto lens, binoculars, or a telescope without proper filtering. That's why I mentioned using the camera shadow to line up on the sun for your shots. ;-) Hey, it works. Also, using the DOF preview, as Steve mentioned, should also work near sunset.

Forecast for NC is AM showers on Friday, and mostly cloudy in the afternoon. I'm still going to set up my Celestron tonight, and hope for the best tomorrow. Hope you have clear skies where you are too! Good luck.

Is it going on right now? I don't have a camera setup but I want to do the "hole in paper" thing to see it ... have I missed it?

I'm not sure, I looked at the sun various times today and I didn't notice anything. Though it was cloudy at times and I live waaaaaaay on the west coast. Don't worry, I can still see a little:D Anyone have any shots of it?

So, Speedometer any shots?

So, Speedometer any shots?


YES!!!!

I was shooting through breaks in the clouds, but I got shots! Finished off the roll in the N80, then took it off the Celestron and hooked up the F5 and finished off that roll as well. I'll be getting them developed this morning.

This was another learning experience. First, the exposure meter works on the F5 when connected to the Celestron. So I shot some at the camera's recommended settings, then switched to manual and shot some. Also, I need a remote cord for shooting with the F5 when it's connected to the Celestron. (I know, I can use the self-timer, but it's not the same.) As it was, I braced the telescope/camera as well as I could and shot. It'll be interesting to see if I get any usable images from it.

Look for images to be posted this afternoon.

So Rick, did you get any shots?