Muslin-Backdrop Dye Rubs Off on Hands

[maplegirlie]

I recently purchased a Superior brand muslin background and was disappointed to see the dye coming off on my hands after normal handling.

Does anyone know how to set the dye in a background so it won't fade or rub off?

This is a significant problem for me since the type of portrait work I will be doing with the backdrop involves being in clients' homes and working with them and their pets.

People and animals will be sitting directly on the backdrop, and I can't risk getting dye on their clothing, skin, pets, carpet, and anything else the muslin rubs up against.

I have sent an e-mail to the manufacturer (Superior) and am awaiting their reply, but thought I'd ask here in case anyone has already experienced and solved this problem.

In case there is no solution, can anyone recommend a brand/manufacturer whose dyes do *not* rub off on contact?

[Photo-John]

Can anyone here help maplegirlie? Is there muslin where the dye doesn't rub off? Is this going to be a problem with any muslin? Should she return her backdrop and buy another brand?

[Sebastian]

From my experience with my two muslins, the dye always rubs off at first. But, with time it gets better. The thing is, if the hands or materials are wet/sweaty, the dye is more likely to come off. Mine stopped doing it noticeably after a few uses.

[drg]

Does it rub off a lot or just a little? White cloth test to see if it is one color or all and is the color smearing? Some brands bleed a little for awhile like new clothing.

I am not familiar with the Superior brand product and have to ask:

1. Is it listed as a washable/cleanable backdrop? If so a quick tumble wash like new towels or dark colored jeans will clear the problem right up.

2. Is the dye/paint/stain water-soluble? When you get it on your hands, will it rinse off with tap water easily? If not, it is probably vegetable oil (linseed is one example) acrylic.

3. Does it say anything on a tag or 'instruction' about "BEFORE USE" do XYZ?

If this doesn't apply or vigorous shaking (there is sometime loose dye that can be removed or even vacuumed/blown off) then:

4. Was it sold as a "studio backdrop" as opposed to portable? Those that are many times are supposed to be covered with multiple layers of urethane (usually water based and a salt mixture or a fire retardant compound) prior to use or another sealer/fixer compound. They obviously are not as portable then. In fact they are meant to be treated and can be walked on and not wear as quickly. Unfortunately these are often the most economical initially to purchase.

5. Your friendly neighborhood fabric store/sewing supply will have 'fixative' for water-based paints in powdered, pre-mixed and even aerosol in most cases. Don't use this stuff on anything other than water based paints as it will clump and look like *&$^&#@(.

6. It could be, shudder, chalk. There are some places that use a screen method and make 'customized' drops on various materials (muslin is a favorite) with chalk. It can be fixed with regular artists chalk fixative, but it can be real expensive. Again this may be where you have to 'shake' the drop or work on it. See also urethane above(not poly unless a thinned water version). Theatrical supply houses can either tell you where to get or provide compounds for fire retardant properties. Polyurethane's for the most part are too hard and all flex will be gone from the material. It will become almost canvas like. That's why different compounds (material and dye dependent) may apply or be needed.

If you have to work on the backdrop (as in a custom colored or patterned that can't be returned) then a few tips:

Be prepared to sacrifice a few test strips off the edge to work with. Do this because a lot of fixers will change the color and reflectivity. Anything you apply make sure you get the flattest (matte as opposed to gloss or semi) compound available, order if needed. Check before and after photographically.

Test for fireproofness. Muslin burns like a match so be 'real' careful. Do it outside on cement!! Take ANY treated material outside and throw a lit wad of paper on it. If that doesn't ignite, take a lighter or torch and physically light the material. It should either not burn with flame removed or self extinguish in 2-5 seconds.

Straight urethane treated cloth can be almost explosive like flash paper so take precautions when testing. It will depend on the material composition and how dry it actually is. After awhile, with proper treatment, it will be quite safe.

Water based dyes and their fixatives will provide a certain degree of safety. Chalk alone is real safe, but rubs off. If using artists fixative get the water based variety as it is almost completely fireproof.

More questions, PM me or email and I'll see what I else I can offer or dig up!!

[maplegirlie]

Wow. I am impressed with your knowledge of backdrops!

Does it rub off a lot or just a little? White cloth test to see if it is one color or all and is the color smearing? Some brands bleed a little for awhile like new clothing.

I am not familiar with the Superior brand product and have to ask:

1. Is it listed as a washable/cleanable backdrop? If so a quick tumble wash like new towels or dark colored jeans will clear the problem right up.

No instructions came with it, but I found out that it's washable. Although it may seem like common sense to wash it, I was reluctant to try that without asking someone first because I thought, "With my luck, I'll ruin it."

And after reading your reply, I'm glad I didn't just assume I could wash it. Apparently there are a lot of factors to consider.

I also heard back from a rep at Superior, and she said to try washing it. (They were very good about responding via e-mail.)

So now I have some confidence that I won't turn my brand new product into a streaky mess.
:-)

I might try some of the other things you suggested too -- if for no other reason than you've now got my curiosity going.

I mean really, who can resist trying to set a backdrop on fire in the name of product testing? ;-)

I appreciate the thorough discussion you offered. Thanks for taking the time to post.