I bite the bullet and purchased a light kit today

[Peter_AUS]

Wife wasn't impressed but she can live with that. I needed to do this as I need to have something I can learn with and get the flash output needed to learn this properly as well.

I decided on the Bowens Esprit II 500 x 2 kit which comes with 2 light stands, 2 heads, 1 reflector, 70cm x 70cm softbox, 1 silver/white upbrella, sync cord, bag etc. I also got a reflector holder as well.

Pic of the lights setup, will need to play with these for a while to get used to them, and need to have the model in place to focus on, otherwise it makes it very hard to get the right focus distance by yourself.

Taken with no flash at all, only light was flurescent ceiling light. I was impressed a little with that, haven't tried that before.

Take care everyone.

[MJS]

congratulations. I know the feeling having just got a 2 light kit for work. Some of the first results are posted under viewfinder labeled the kids when you get the chance. Have fun once you get someone to sit still for the modeling part.

[Trevor Ash]

That looks like a very nice good at an affordable price. I like the mount style on the stand with the umbrella. That seems like it would be much easier to control direction of the light and prevent and movement with heavy things on it.

Congratulations Peter, I fully agree about the learning part and the need for it because I feel the same way about myself. Plus, you can always turn around and sell the kit for a small loss after you've mastered it and if it's causing family issues.....you know what I mean

Now start using it and post some shots!!!!

[Peter_AUS]

Thanks Trevor, but I don't sell things generally, wife isn't that miffed about it, understands I am trying to get to a point where I might be able to market myself and make some small income out of Photography, which would then help with tax purposes.

The Umbrella actually attaches to the reflector, though a couple of holes on the outside of it and a screw knob to keep it in place.

Setting up the Softbox was interesting, took a few grey cells to work out why it wasn't sitting properly on the strobe when attached. The speed ring, is a generic one and there is an adapter for it that needs to be postioned with 4 screw devices, I had tightened it in position and then after 10 mins trying to get the position right, realised I need to loosed the 4 screws and just turn it into position and then retighten it up. DUH !!! how did I feel. But haven't been exposed to this before and info on the net really isn't that informative at times.

I'm going to try out some shots tomorrow with the children, I found I need something to focus on, using the timer just doesn't work well for focus, I'm sure you know what I mean.

Look for some postings soon.

[Peter_AUS]

I will MJS, thanks for telling me.

[another view]

No kidding, me too! I bought a (one) Calumet Travelite which is made by Bowens. A friend has some of both and they've held up very well. My Travelite looks very similar, could be the same light.

They have a big sale thru the middle of next month. I went with one for now to get a feel for how they work, to see what I could do with one, and financial reasons! I'm sure I'll add another before long. Now if I could just get the Wein Safe Sync to work...

[Peter_AUS]

Well here are a couple of images I created today, playing around the the lights for the first time really with something to focus on other than myself. The children got sick and tired of me asking them to stand in front of the camera as they were interested more in their TV shows. School Holidays here at present.





My girls having fun with the Shirley Head I have.




Shirley head only.

Softbox was position at 45 degrees on the right of camera, set at 1/8th power, 3 feet from nose, 5 feet from background.

Fill was position right next to camera 6 1/2 feet high, 7 feet from umbrella to nose, set at 1/16th Power.

Specs of shots was with Canon 10D, 28-135 IS lens both at f/8, 1/125 manual mode, hand held. The Shirley head at 65.0mm and the other at 44.0mm, for those interested in it.

No post processing other than resizing for the web has been done.

Looking for interesting comments and advice.

[Peter_AUS]

Thankfully my Safe Sync seems to be working although the plug isn't too tight in the camera, which is annoying. I found that the Canon ST-E2 fires the stobes but the resulting images are all black, can't seem to figure that one out. I was excited thinking this will solve the cord issues with moving around, but hasn't. So back to the cord.

You probably do have the same as me, they are made by Bowens and branded Calumet I think.

[Trevor Ash]

I think it's okay to formerly refer to "The Shirley Head" to just "Shirley" She'll be with you for a while afterall!

I don't have too much to critique about this particular lighting. Honestly it's a little hard to take Shirley seriously.

I'm sure your goal at this point is to just have pleasant lighting. You've succeeded with that. I would recommend that you spend some time researching the different kinds of classical lighting and apply them to the model until you're comfortable with the "lingo" and tools for each style. From there you can start getting creative again and using your own techniques.

I don't think it's too early to work on other essentials as well such as background, posing, clothing, etc.

This would help us critique better because then you'd be able to explain your goal more clearly.

Keep em comin.

[Peter_AUS]

Basically what I was trying to do was get the lighting close to pleasant, and as you have said, I think I got there.

As Shirley is just the head, it is resing on a box, that is placed on a high stool, just to get to a comfortable working position, the kids were getting irritated with me, as kids do I would think with photography. To start with, I was just getting blown out, even though the histogram, told me that it was under exposed. Using the Flash meter I have I was using the setting that it told me, which were f/4 at 1/125.

I am looking around for a secondhand mannequin at a reasonable price, that way I can dress it, change clothing, reposition and experiment, as you say with classical lighting, etc.

I basically wanted to get a presentable image and use that initial setup as the starting point to work with.

I have a reflector, but it is too big for the area I am using, so will look at getting something in the 26" round range for lighting from underneath. I did use some foamcore to get an idea on reflecting light from the softbox as only source.

Unfortunately, I can't afford, better backgrounds, I am using bed sheeting material that I purchased in 5 metre long pieces, plum and blue, but do have white and blackish ones as well, but they are bed sheets joined in the middle, so you see the join in photos. I plan on experimenting with them and see which comes up with better results, and watch the ebay Amvona Auctions to see if I can pick up a background or two from them cheaply. Seems to be around $80-90 US and postage is $48US to Australia, so that equates to around $180-200Aus.

I might try ironing the background whilst it is hanging up as I have a pretty powerful iron that I can use.

Thanks for looking and commenting, I have been reading up on lighting and the lingo is comming, but the skills aren't there as of yet.

[another view]

She'll be with you for a while afterall!

Surely she will! Alright, alright, I'm done...

[EmbeddedMatt]

Thankfully my Safe Sync seems to be working although the plug isn't too tight in the camera, which is annoying.

I think this problem must be near universal. I didn't need the voltage regulation function so I'm just using a hot shoe adapter similar to Nikon AS-15 and the PC cord falls out regularly. Can we nominate the PC connector for the worst connector of all time?

I found that the Canon ST-E2 fires the stobes but the resulting images are all black, can't seem to figure that one out.

I was curious what a ST-E2 is, so I did a quick search and ran across this:

"Of course the ST-E2 is more than an autofocus assist device. It also serves its primary function as a wireless slave trigger. This means that with the ST-E2 mounted on-camera a Canon 550EX, 420EX, or MR-14EX flash unit within about 30 feet (about 10 meters) can be triggered remotely. (Please note that the ST-E2 only works with these three flash units — no others. Though of course its role as an autofocus assist light does not require any flash unit to be used.)"

The URL is http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/st-e2.shtml

I don't know if that helps you or not but there you go.

[Asylum Steve]

Peter, folks that use a lack of expensive, elaborate lighting equipment as an excuse not to create good studio images simply haven't tried hard enough.

Those look like very decent units with some handy accessories, and I'm confident you'll get a lot of good use out of them.

Hopefully you'll discover that WHAT you do with the equipment you have is more important than WHAT equipment you have...

[Peter_AUS]

Thanks Steve,

I think they will be good for me, seem to be mid to higher end quality and output. I have to admit this is harder than I thought it would be though. Getting a handle on how to use the modelling lights is just a bit of a challange as well.

What is your opinion of the couple of images I posted, I did try using just the one light first off to get that at a point I thought was half way decent lighting and then intoduced the fill light and experimented with that.

Any advice to get on the right track would be helpful, I know you are busy at present. Drop me an email if you like.

Take care.

[Peter_AUS]

Thanks Matt, I have read that review.

[EmbeddedMatt]

Well the part I found interesting was that it would only work with such-and-such flashes. Of course they didn't say why that was true but I thought maybe it would give you a clue to your wireless sync problem.

[Peter_AUS]

True, but if it fires the Bowens flash heads I can't understand why it doesn't show anything on the LCD after using on the camera. It must just be a sync problem that I am unable to figure out. I will read the acticle again, it has been a while since I read it.

Thanks again.

[Trevor Ash]

Peter, here's a guess:

The ST-E2 communicates information to the other flash units (Canon's flash units that is) via infra red light. Obviously, it communicates all the necessary information to the flashes BEFORE the actual exposure is take. Your strobes are probably getting triggered from the communication info of the ST-E2 and when the shutter finally opens your strobes have already fired.

I've heard of pins being covered to solve the problem. A quick search pulled up this thread over at satan.com:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=4310266

Perhaps this will lead you in the right direction.

[Peter_AUS]

Thanks Trevor, Satan.com that is funny.

It does help, but the postings, say cover all but the firing pin, there are 5 pins, do you know which pins to cover, is it the 4 the create a box or the one by itself towards the front, looking at it upside down.

Edit,

Worked it out, it is the 4 in a box formation towards the back of the ST-E2, leaving the out of alignment single one towards the front the firing pin, I think. Tried it and it seemed to work OK.

[darkman]

In one intensely boring moment I got the ste-e2 to work by taping over certain contacts. Off hand I can't remember which ones? The problem is the unit is ettl period. Which means it and the camera always expect a preflash. Taping over the correct contacts eliminates this. Even with the 550ex in which you can turn of the ettl, the camera still expects a preflash! I figured out which contacts to tape over on this too.

Anyway, being I'm not, or really ever plan on firing my flashes off while others are firing theirs, I got a wein ssr-jr. It was the cheapest unit I could find. I've had no problems, except ones caused by me, with it.

I did modify one of my PC chords to utilize the household prong connector. Twent-nine cents at the hardware store.

It appears dummies are pretty cheap in AU. I was looking for one once and couldn't find a full size one for under $200. Bodis's (head and busts) were very close to the same cost. These were used too! I then started shooting still lifes. Which, besides taxing your creativity, is probably a better learning tool.

[Peter_AUS]

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Trevor Ash]

For what it's worth, I finally got around to covering those 4 pins of my ST-E2 and tested how well it fires my strobes. It works very well. I do notice however that I have to have the ST-E2 pointed towards the stobes if the room is big enough or the strobes too far behind you, etc. But, it does work.