Flash for Dummies

[photophorous]

Please point me in the right direction with flash photography.

I'm completely clueless when it comes to modern flash photography. I've used a manual flash a few times, by using a hand held flash meter before taking the shot, but I don't know how to use the "Auto" setting or how to read the charts on the back (it's a really basic Vivitar 2000). I've read a lot about flashes, but most of what I read just confuses me. I realize there are varying degrees of automation with flash units, but I don't really understand the differences.

Would someone be so kind to give me a very basic run down of the functional differences between flash units? For example, can they be divided into categories like, manual, auto, and TTL?

Any information you can offer is appreciated.

Thanks,
Paul

[Asylum Steve]

Would someone be so kind to give me a very basic run down of the functional differences between flash units? For example, can they be divided into categories like, manual, auto, and TTL?

Well, Paul, my area of expertise is definitely off-camera monolight flash heads, but in the most general sense, I can tell you that the type of flash you use and more specifically the settings you use depend on two basic factors: how much power you need and how much you want to have to think during a shoot.

If your power needs are above a certain level, there's no getting around using bigger off-camera units, and these will almost always be set to a manual power setting, which is then metered to determine camera exposure.

If your needs can be met by an on-camera flash unit, then you can decide if one of the auto or TTL flashes would work. In that case (depending on your camera model) you might be able to get by without a handheld meter reading.

Basically, a flash set on manual throws off a fixed amount of illumination. One set on auto gives off variable amounts based on a sensor in the flash, and TTL gives off variable amounts based on light readings through the camera lens.

When you shoot manual, you have to be very aware of the subject-light distances and the camera and flash settings. Auto and TTL usually mean less thinking (once they're set) so you can concentrate on shooting.

Not sure if any of this is the info you're looking for, but hopefully it helps...

[Ronnoco]

The easiest approach to find a digital flash with auto, TTL and a long range that you can set on automatic, P or FP and literaly forget. Mine works automatically with TTL, ADI, and FP from 18 inches out to 60+feet and from 17mm wide angle to 105mm. In manual, it goes out to 160 feet. It does bounce automatically in several directions, modeling, and automatic compensation for white or highly reflective surfaces. It is more precise than the built-in on-camera flash and does not wash out pale colours. What is great is that with the better digital flashes it is possible to create a look that does not shout: FLASH.

Ronnoco

[photophorous]

Ronnoco and Steve,

Thanks for the information. This helps. There's one detail that confuses me, still.

What's the practical difference between Auto and TTL? I understand that the Auto flash works off a sensor in the flash, and that TTL works from the camera telling the flash what to do. What I don't understand is the difference in operation. I'm guessing, with TTL, you just turn it on and go. TTL will do exposure automatically as well as zoom (if that feature is included), based off camera settings. But, with Auto, do you have to use certain Fstops, or calculate distances or program the flash to match your camera settings? Can you give an example of how you would operate an Auto flash?

I know with a Manual flash you either use the guide number formula or a flash meter, to determine your Fstop.

Thanks again,
Paul

[Asylum Steve]

What's the practical difference between Auto and TTL? Can you give an example of how you would operate an Auto flash?

Paul, keep in mind I've never used a TTL flash, but did use a Vivitar 283 for many years, which (at the time) was one of the most advanced AUTO flashes available.

With the 283 on auto, you choose an f/stop, usually based on what depth of field or battery output (recycling time) you want. You then set the flash dial to that f/stop. The dial settings are divided into different colors. You then set the on-flash sensor to the same color, and (once powered up) the flash covers a given distance, and will emit the proper flash on any subject in that range.

Obviously, TTL is a further evolution of that idea, and I would imagine is more sophisticated and accurate...

[photophorous]

Thanks Steve,

What you're saying makes sense. I think part of the reason I'm confused is that the flash I have is so cheap, it doesn't function like other Auto flashes. It only has three settings. Manual, Green Auto, and Red Auto. I think the two Auto settings are basically different brightness levels, and you have to use a chart to determine the max distance it will work, for a given Fstop. I'm not sure, but I don't think it's worth figuring out. I doubt the Auto functions are reliable enough to make it worth using. I'll just make due with the Manual setting and a flash meter, or my pop up speedlight, until I can afford a nice TTL flash.

Paul

[Greggie Boy]

All flash units(and I mean all) are over rated by the maufacturer. The closest to precise accuracy is the Metz 60 CT-1. Auto settings are OK for most situations but the flash can be fooled by different reflective surfaces etc. manuel setting and proper f-stop is the only sure way to assure good results.

[Ronnoco]

All flash units(and I mean all) are over rated by the maufacturer. The closest to precise accuracy is the Metz 60 CT-1. Auto settings are OK for most situations but the flash can be fooled by different reflective surfaces etc. manuel setting and proper f-stop is the only sure way to assure good results.

Actually the Sigma EF500 Super is set up to not be fooled by either reflective surfaces or a lot of white in the scene and this is on the TTL, ADI setting working automatically.

Ronnoco