Vintage Raceing

[Jimmy B]

Hey all spent Saturday out at the Vintage opener. I need to work on some stuff. I need to work on my left to right panning, too much oval stuff in the past going right too left
Let me know if you see something I am missing? Some are to soft for my liking. There should be more when I get done PP.
Jimmy B

[porterm]

im not qualified to offer any criticism,yet the ferrari seems very sharp as far as the car goes. the open wheeler seems alike it has a bit of shake going on.
were these taken freehand? seems like most racing shots must be,i cant imagine being able to hold the camera still enough to get these kind of shots!
im still new at this but i think im always gonna have to use some kind of rest to get good shots. even when i try to use a monopod i still seem to waver.

[JSPhoto]

My only comment would be to do some with and without tire movement. I personally prefer seeing tire blur to show movement and speed. Which lens were you using? If it was a 70-200 f2.8 open it up and blur the background, it detracts from the car.
So how did the car in the lower shot fair? Hope it wasn't damaged too badly. I saw a vintage car spin coming off turn two at Indy and another clipped it's nose....OUCH! Both ends took a beating. I may have posted those here somewhere.

JS

[Jimmy B]

John the formula ford backed out of where it was and drove away! Just some dirt and rocks!
So the fine line with motion blur SS and using a low F-stop Is something learned with trial and error and what speed the cars are going on that part of the track.Here are a few more, first time shooting this track in a serious way. Look close at the air inlet on the nose of the blue #45 filled with grass, it didn't finish the race The shop I work in did the motor, I hope he didn't waste the cylinder head?
I don't think I would ever take my mono-pod to a race unless I get a 400 mm + lens.
I just need more time shooting
Thanks as always, Jimmy B

[JSPhoto]

i cant imagine being able to hold the camera still enough to get these kind of shots!
im still new at this but i think im always gonna have to use some kind of rest to get good shots. even when i try to use a monopod i still seem to waver.

portem,
I have several old threads here about this very subject. #1, lightweight cameras actually hurt panning. Heavier cameras help because you tend to pan slower. Most people don't get it until they actually try it. I can shoot freehand just as easy with my NKIIN and 70-200 f2.8 as I can with the same body and 400mm f4, but it took practice practice and more practice. Now it's just second nature. The lighter bodies and lenses move too easily causing shooters to pass the subject up or raise and lower the body and lens as they pan, heavier cameras just seem to pan much smoother and with much less movement. It takes a while to get used to the added weight, but if you shoot a lot you get used to the weight. There are times I pick the camera up in the morning at 9am and don't put it down for 12-14 hours, I don't notice the weight at all. And for some jobs I'd take two bodies and two to 4 lenses....now that gets heavy

Anyway, practice practice and more practice! Monopods are not good for sports, they limit movement, and for high school and lower I wouldn't use one for liability reasons, it's better to learn to shoot freehand.

JS

[Jimmy B]

These were taken with my 30D/ grip I got a week ago, with 70-200.
Jimmy B

[SmartWombat]

That #45 has been off-track lawn mowing !
With that much in the rad intake I'd be surprised if he didn't cook the motor.
But isn't that what your pit crew is for?
Wave the big <= IN sign and get the grass out.
Got to be cheaper than a new engine

Nice pan, I find that crashes are the hardest to do.
The rapid deceleration means I overshoot most often.
The adrenalin my end means I'm shaky

#51 I can see you over-panned just a tad.
The blur on the spokes at the top is less than at the bottom so I guess you panned a gnat's whisker too fast. Easy to do as they brake into a corner.

Good stuff all round !

[Jimmy B]

Crew? sign board? Radios? this is some really really laid back racing. I went to take pictures and ended up working on the 45 for about an hour and a half.
We got the head in about an hour ago here at the shop, it snapped a cam, I can save the head
Thanks for the feedback SW

[SmartWombat]

Ouch !
Piston, meet valves ...

[JSPhoto]

I have a 1962 Oliver tractor I am rebuilding....want to do some head work on it? It had the rear rocker stud pull the threads, broke both arms for #6 cylinder. Actually my problem has been finding another stud that will work. I rethreaded the thing but can't find a stud long enough! This stud also holds the cast iron valve cover on. That dang head weighs 150 - 200lbs, and the valve cover is at least 50-60lbs. I did manage to find the rocker arms for this thing $20 each though. Oddly enough I found a pair of GM push rods that were the exact match for the originals. I think they are from a 1958 inline 6.....but thats about the only part that was easy to find, or cheap. This guy has $1500 just in parts for a tractor he mows with.

JS

[Jimmy B]

John you might go over to indy cylinder heads over by the speedway in gasoline alley industrial park? Or if any of the farm equipment repair facilities might know of a fix.
Send me a picture of what it is.
Check your PMs.

[JSPhoto]

John you might go over to indy cylinder heads over by the speedway in gasoline alley industrial park? Or if any of the farm equipment repair facilities might know of a fix.
Send me a picture of what it is.
Check your PMs.

I tried all of em, even the place in Iowa where I got the other pieces.
I emailed you....now I have to dig up those pics.

JS