How hard is it?

[kyle]

http://www.troypaiva.com/

I've been thinking about doing some work like this but I was just curious if it's hard. I've been told by some that it's not as hard as it may seem. Anyhoo, does anybody have any advice about this type of shooting? I think it's really neat.

[Jacqui]

It's not hard but it takes a LOT of time. If you go do it, plan to spend all night there. Usually ambient light from the moon is used to light the overall scene, then "painting with light" by using flashlights or flash with filters is used for the color enhancements. It takes planning, practice, and bracketing. It's the bracketing that will eat up your time. But it's really fun so you should definitely try it.

[Mr Yuck]

Sweet, thanks for the link, I'd also like to do that. I can save a little time on the bracketing too since I have a couple of cameras that I can use.

You'll want to bring along a remote or cable release to allow for extremely long exposures, from probably 10 minutes to 6 hours, some pictures i've seen show star streaks going in complete circles, others with just small streaks.

You'll also want to bring along some tea, cant forget the tea.

I think when I do it, it'll be with a nice warm car and a book

[another view]

Troy has posted here in the past, and I have his book. Really neat stuff!

I know he says a lot about how important it is about being away from city lights, but other than that it's not that hard (depending on where you live...). From my experience with trying it, here's what I've found:

1. Condensation can be a big problem. Once it starts happening, nothing will help - call it a night. Since night time can be really close to the dew point even before it happens, hold your breath if you're looking at the front of the camera (really).
2. Be careful of reciprocity failure. If you're not familiar with this, in this scenario realize that film might need more exposure time than what you calculate so it's properly exposed. Fuji Provia (slide film) is one of the best out there, and Velvia is one of the worst. Colors can shift too - how much of either of these problems depends on how much exposure time you use and the film's characteristics themselves.
3. Bring a bubble level. It's hard to see if your composition is level when it's that dark, but a bubble level in the hot shoe will make sure it is. Why spend a couple of hours only to find out your camera was crooked?!

Definately try it though - when it's right, but results are really cool!

[Mr Yuck]

thanks av, based on that post, I think I'll wait till summer to try this ;)

for one thing, I wont really have to worry about condensation in the summer (around here it gets down to about what, 60 at night?) Then there's the comfort issue, I wont freeze in the summer, and the third thing is time, I should have more time in the summer.

[another view]

We're lucky for 60 during the day this time of year... Condensation is a real problem - I've tried this up north a few times in the summer where it's often below 60 at night. It's just a matter of time before condensation happens, then there's nothing you can do because it won't warm up enough to go away until after sunrise.

Using two cameras is a good option, but keep notes of what you're doing. Although there's a lot of "down time" while the exposures are being made, it's really easy to forget when you started them (from experience...).

[kyle]

Thanks for all of the tips guys! I really appreciate it! One question I do have though, when I do attempt this, I will be shooting with my Nikon D70 (digi) Is there anything different you need to know or do with digi then you would with film?

[another view]

I've never tried it with digital. I think the "noise" would get really bad with these exposures. I read somewhere that sensors heat up in use, and if you're shooting outside in the winter it's OK but I'm not too sure about that. This is assuming that the batteries last, too...

I've taken really clean 30 sec shots at ISO100 with my Fuji S2 at 30 seconds, but never tried anything longer than that. With Provia 400, I think 8 minutes at f5.6 is a good starting point. That's much more exposure and the camera isn't really made for that. Whether or not it would hurt it, I don't know.

With digital you wouldn't have any reciprocity failure to worry about though.

[kyle]

I've never tried it with digital. I think the "noise" would get really bad with these exposures. I read somewhere that sensors heat up in use, and if you're shooting outside in the winter it's OK but I'm not too sure about that. This is assuming that the batteries last, too...

I've taken really clean 30 sec shots at ISO100 with my Fuji S2 at 30 seconds, but never tried anything longer than that. With Provia 400, I think 8 minutes at f5.6 is a good starting point. That's much more exposure and the camera isn't really made for that. Whether or not it would hurt it, I don't know.

With digital you wouldn't have any reciprocity failure to worry about though.

Thanks! I appreciate the info. I'll definatley look into it further then before attempting anything. =)

[Jacqui]

Oh yes, and take a timer/stopwatch for each camera and a small flashlight for walking around and looking at things in your hands and a large flashlight to shine on the subject so you can set your focus. :-) Take someone with you so they keep you company. One night I shot the Perseids meteor showers all night, thought I would be there an hour and came home at sunrise instead! I took an exercise mat with me and dozed off between shots until the timer went off. Also, if you shoot towards the northern star, the rest of the stars swirl around it. If I remember right, you can find the northern star by looking at the Big Dipper, then following the top of the handle two more stars, to the bright one. Do I have that right? Anyone? Anyone?

[Speed]

Oh yes, and take a timer/stopwatch for each camera and a small flashlight for walking around and looking at things in your hands and a large flashlight to shine on the subject so you can set your focus. :-) Take someone with you so they keep you company. One night I shot the Perseids meteor showers all night, thought I would be there an hour and came home at sunrise instead! I took an exercise mat with me and dozed off between shots until the timer went off. Also, if you shoot towards the northern star, the rest of the stars swirl around it. If I remember right, you can find the northern star by looking at the Big Dipper, then following the top of the handle two more stars, to the bright one. Do I have that right? Anyone? Anyone?

You find the two end stars (in the bowl) and follow them to the North Star. They are actually Alpha and Beta, the brightest stars in the Big Dipper. Follow Beta to Alpha and that line will take you to the North Star. The North Star is a second magnitude star, so it is not very bright. But it is easy to find, using the Big Dipper method.


http://skyandtelescope.com/howto/vis...icle_262_1.asp