Oly Master 2 questions and problems

[tbob]

I know I must be either doing something wrong, or I have a computer, software problem.

First, let me proclaim that while a veteran 35mm shooter with darkroom expertise, I am a newbie in digital. I shot some interior stuff sans flash on Thanksgiving and it looked excellent in camera with good contrast and color balance. When viewing in the clunky Oly Master 2 software, many of the images looked different than they did in camera, appearing darker with a pronounced color cast. I used to the Oly software to correct the shots, freezing the app of two occasions.

My questions:

a) Why did the images look different in camera vs. viewing with the Oly software? Which should I trust to have printed?

b) Perhaps it is my older Mac running OSX10.3.9 that is causing the Oly software to run so damn slow and freeze at times. I might add this is the FIRST software I have ever ahd any problems with on this computer which I keep tightly maintained (in terms of running various maintenance programs. Is Master 2

c) I have an older version of Adobe Photoshop Elements 3.0. Perhaps I should use that, but then it will not recognize proprietary Oly RAW files, correct? Should I upgrade to Photoshop Elements 6.0, or, sigh, maybe it is time for a newer computer?

Any comments from you experts would be appreciate.

[Don Kondra]

Greetings,

First of all, have you downloaded and installed the latest Master update?

It's only been out for a few days or so....

Second, on my iMac I found image editing programs worked best when no other applications were running

And I could freeze it on demand by clicking before the previous task was complete.

Third, I don't think the on camera preview screen is good for much else than general peeping. What you see in Master is what it IS...

It is my opinion that Master is the best application to develop orf/raw files, let me put this another way. Master produces the truest colors, etc. Just the way Olympus has designed them to be.

I've found other programs are not quite the same. Not saying they are better or worse, just different.

So if you still want to use Adobe PhotoShop I would convert the raw file in Master to a tiff or jpeg and do the rest of the work in PS.

Not sure if this helped much....

If I remember correctly, you can also allocate more memory to the application, that usually helps with the speed issue.

Cheers, Don

[tbob]

Thanks, Don, your suggestions were encouraging.

I completely forgot about allocating more memory to the app. I'll do that ASAP.

With more experimentation, I found that like you, I can freeze Master 2 if I don't wait until whatever it is doing finishes.

I assumed since I just purchased the E-510, the software would be the latest version.

Thanks again for replying.

Tom

[Greg McCary]

Your software should work fine with the 510. I used it before upgrading to the E3. Also make sure your monitor is calibrated. It can be a little off and cause all kinds of headaches. Printing a couple of pictures and seeing how the prints come out helps as well.