Nikon D7000 tips

That's probably why the professional cameras don't have a mode dial.

The dial is nice for people who don't use their camera often because there are the preset scene types all visible on the dial so they are easy to find and set. On the pro models you only have PSAM modes and you have to press a button and turn a knurled wheel to change modes.

There are times when I am in Manual Mode but I cannot switch the Aperture. I can change the Shutter Speed just fine but the Aperture locks. My only option is to turn the camera off and on. Any idea what may cause my D7000 to do that?

Hi there Chuzmarobot,

I admit to having only limited experience with a D7000 (Jeff has been "teaching" me a lot of things with this great forum of his) but I'm just wondering if you're having that problem (i.e. changing aperture when in the camera's set to manual mode) when working in "live" view.

If this is the case, I think you'll find that you have to exit "live" view and then it will let you change the aperture.

I do not have my camera with me at this present time (I'm working away from home) but hopefully I'm not complicating the issue for you - I'm sure that Jeff will clarify this (possibly for both of us!). It's just that I "suffered" a similar issue and, in my case, that was the solution.

Hopefully this helps.

Raymond

PS: I apologise if I'm not permitted to add a link here (Jeff, please remove it if it's not allowed) but I found the following on Youtube that may clarify this even further:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghv9yev_AYk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chuzmarobot

There are times when I am in Manual Mode but I cannot switch the Aperture. I can change the Shutter Speed just fine but the Aperture locks. My only option is to turn the camera off and on. Any idea what may cause my D7000 to do that?

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The only way I can not get the aperture to change is in live view just as Raymond has stated. You might check out the video he provided the link for and see if that gives you your answer. Jeff

Thank you! that was helpful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raymond_K

Hi there Chuzmarobot,

I admit to having only limited experience with a D7000 (Jeff has been "teaching" me a lot of things with this great forum of his) but I'm just wondering if you're having that problem (i.e. changing aperture when in the camera's set to manual mode) when working in "live" view.

If this is the case, I think you'll find that you have to exit "live" view and then it will let you change the aperture.

I do not have my camera with me at this present time (I'm working away from home) but hopefully I'm not complicating the issue for you - I'm sure that Jeff will clarify this (possibly for both of us!). It's just that I "suffered" a similar issue and, in my case, that was the solution.

Hopefully this helps.

Raymond

PS: I apologise if I'm not permitted to add a link here (Jeff, please remove it if it's not allowed) but I found the following on Youtube that may clarify this even further:

Nikon D7000 Movie Mode Settings Explained - YouTube

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Choosing a SD card for your Nikon D7000

I have been using SanDisk Class 10 Extreme 30mb cards in my D7000. I normally do not shoot in burst mode but the other day I was photographing some birds in flight and thought that I would try doing some bursts and was disappointed in the ability of my camera to keep up with a continuous burst. I was shooting Raw/ fine JPEG and would only get about 10 or 11 shots before it started slowing way down. I did some research on the SanDisk Extreme Pro class 10 cards that show 95mbs read and 45mbs write speed and thought that might help me out. I had read several reviews that said that this card would really make a difference so I purchased two of them to give them a try. Well I received them today and compared the two expecting that a noticeable increase in the ability for my camera to keep up.


This is the results of what I found

This is not scientific but only my attempt to find out the difference between the two cards.

SanDisk Extreme Class 10, 30mbs card results. 10 to 11 shots in a burst before slowing way down taking RAW/Fine JPEG and about 18seconds before the green light went out on my camera

SanDisk Extreme Pro Class 10, 95mbs read speed with 45mbs write speed results. 10 to 11 shots before slowing way down taking RAW/FINE JPEG and about 14 seconds before my green light went out on my camera

The Extreme Pro was about 4 seconds faster at being ready to take more pictures. I did not compare the two on how fast they downloaded pictures to my computer but I would expect the Pro to do a faster job. Jeff

Should I have my lens's VR turned on or off when shooting on a tripod

Recently I decided to take my Nikon 20-200VR F2.8 with my TC 20E III 2x teleconverter out to see how sharp the results would be. I don't use a tripod very often due to having such steady hands so I proceeded to place my combination of lens and teleconverter on my tripod and shoot away. After taking the pictures home using this combination I looked at them on my home computer and was not impressed because the pictures were not as sharp as I was expecting. I remember taking some pictures handheld with much better results than I got while shooting on my tripod. I was shooting using my tripod expecting to see the best results but it was not to be. I rounded up my equipment and decided to go out and try this again and on the way out to shoot a light went off in my brain and the answer hit me, I was shooting using my tripod with the VR still turned on!!! After turning the VR off the shots on the tripod were much better and reasonably sharp even with the teleconverter on.

I have two tips for this week about using your lens's VR setting. 1st TURN IT OFF when shooting on your tripod and 2nd remember to TURN IT BACK ON when shooting handheld shots because in both cases IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE. Jeff

There's also the issue of shutter speed being used. I keep seeing 1/500 bandied about as the crossover point where it does more harm than good, but I haven't tested.

But for sure VR is one of those things that has a place and also most definitely has a not-place.

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Originally Posted by Grandpaw

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TURN IT OFF when shooting on your tripod and 2nd remember to TURN IT BACK ON when shooting handheld shots because in both cases IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE..

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Agree with that. I just went back to using a lens with VR after months with lenses from 10+ years ago when VR didn't really exist. Much easier to get sharp images.

I did notice that the lens instructions say to turn VR off when using a Tripod but leave it ON when shooting with a Monopod.

What would you do if your battery or charger quit working?

The D7000 along with most of the cameras have a battery designed just for them or maybe a couple of different models. One of the first things I purchase when I get a camera is an additional battery and battery charger so I will always have a backup. I have discussed this before on the forums and was told that they have never had a problem with a battery or charger going bad and I must say that I haven't either. The point of this tip suggesting you to get the extra battery and charger is that you need to ask the question, if one of them did go bad what would you do? I know a lot of us have backup cameras that we could use but many people do not have this option. What would happen if you were on a special photo shoot or just on a fun family vacation and one of these items went bad and put your camera out of service. The point of this tip is to get you to think about what you would do if one of the two quit working. Are you ever in a position that this could be a problem? Having a camera without power is useless so just think about how this would effect you personally. Another option that some of us have is the battery grip that can use AA batteries but most of the people that own the D7000 probably do not have the addition option that the grip provides and if you do not have the extra tray for the AA batteries with you it still cannot be done. How many of us have the option to use the AA batteries for emergency backup but do not have the tray available.

I know that the extra battery and charger are not cheap but you have to ask yourself, at the point that one of these items go bad, what would one of these items be worth at that point. Jeff

My shutter speeds in "M" and "S" modes won't go over 320

I am going to tell you about an experience I had lately and the problem I was having with my camera and also let you know what was causing the problem and what it took to fix it. Recently I was out shooting with my D7000 and had my Nikon 70-200VR F2.8 on the camera with a Nikon 20E III 2x teleconverter. I was shooting handheld and wanted to get my shutter speed up around 1000 or 1500 but my camera wound not let me go over a speed of 320. I looked in the menu and noticed that I had the high speed flash sync set to 320 so I figured this had something to do with my problem. When I pressed the rear info button so I could check the settings on the rear LCD screen I noticed that in the upper left hand corner of the screen there was an "S" indicating I was in SHUTTER PRIORITY mode and to the right it read 320 for a shutter speed, but between the two was an "X" which I had never seen before. My camera would not let me go beyond this shutter speed in either "M" or "S" modes. I tried changing to a different shutter speed and whatever speed I chose is where the shutter speed would not go past and the "X" remained on the screen.

Now for the cause and how to eliminate the problem

I will not go into all the things I tried and people that I talked to trying to fix this problem but will explain what was causing it. When you are in "S" or "M" mode and you turn the dial going toward the slower shutter speeds, if you keep going to a longer and longer shutter time you will eventually get to a 30 second exposure and when you past that the next thing that will appear is the speed that you have your HIGH SPEED FLASH SYNC SPEED set at with an "X" next to it. The problem was that somehow my rear command dial had been turned enough to get me past the slower shutter speeds and reach this speed that had the "X" next to it. All that was needed to get my camera operating correctly was to keep turning the rear command dial to the right going back through the slower settings and then it started getting back to shutter speeds without the "X" next to them. In a nutshell, the rear command dial had been turned to the left toooo far.

I would like to give a special thanks to Moe the service tech at Nikon support for sticking with me going through all the settings. We didn't figure it out on that call but he said he would call me later with an answer. Within minutes he had called me back to tell me what the problem was and how to fix it. I can say that my experience with Nikon support was a very positive one and really appreciate the helpful attitude that Moe had, he was very polite, concerned and helpful. Most of all he figured it out and called me back. I am one happy Nikon customer. Jeff

Do you find the RED RECORD BUTTON a pain in the neck for movies?

Every time I try pressing the little red record button to start a movie I find it very cumbersome and awkward. If I am trying to locate it and press the little red record button in low light it is a real challenge. MY TIP for this post. With the D7000 you have the option to assign different buttons to do different tasks that you might find much easier to use. I find that I do not use the preview button and it is very easy to locate and press so I decided to assign it as my REC button. This button can be found at the lower left hand side of the lens as viewed from the front of the camera.

Here is what you do to try it.

Go to the CUSTOM SETTING MENU and press "OK"
Next scroll down to "F" Controls and press "OK" again
Scroll to f4 Assign preview button and press "OK" again
Scroll to REC Start movie recording and press "OK" and you are done


From now on you can press the "Preview Button" to start and stop recording. I find this much easier to locate and press than I do that little red button in the center of the Live View switch. Jeff

Thanks for the many helpful tips, jeff! I recently found this forum, and am very glad I did. You have already elininated an issue that has bugged me since I bought the camera- how to keep my thumb from accidently changing the EV adjustment. Well done! I ruined several shots due to this.
I also have used the tip about the artificial horizon, and a few others. I hope I can contribute some ideas, too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Grandpaw

Choosing a SD card for your Nikon D7000

I have been using SanDisk Class 10 Extreme 30mb cards in my D7000. I normally do not shoot in burst mode but the other day I was photographing some birds in flight and thought that I would try doing some bursts and was disappointed in the ability of my camera to keep up with a continuous burst. I was shooting Raw/ fine JPEG and would only get about 10 or 11 shots before it started slowing way down. I did some research on the SanDisk Extreme Pro class 10 cards that show 95mbs read and 45mbs write speed and thought that might help me out. I had read several reviews that said that this card would really make a difference so I purchased two of them to give them a try. Well I received them today and compared the two expecting that a noticeable increase in the ability for my camera to keep up.


This is the results of what I found

This is not scientific but only my attempt to find out the difference between the two cards.

SanDisk Extreme Class 10, 30mbs card results. 10 to 11 shots in a burst before slowing way down taking RAW/Fine JPEG and about 18seconds before the green light went out on my camera

SanDisk Extreme Pro Class 10, 95mbs read speed with 45mbs write speed results. 10 to 11 shots before slowing way down taking RAW/FINE JPEG and about 14 seconds before my green light went out on my camera

The Extreme Pro was about 4 seconds faster at being ready to take more pictures. I did not compare the two on how fast they downloaded pictures to my computer but I would expect the Pro to do a faster job. Jeff

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Re: Tip #71 That is disappointing. I recently bought the San Disk pro (95 MB/sec read) thinking I would get much improved write speeds while taking bursts. Looks like I may have wasted money, as there was not much improvement in write speed for a large increase in cost.

Does anyone know if the write speed is limited only by the card, or is there an internal limit?

Re: MOVIE MODE
Does anyone know how to pause taking a movie so that I can stop and start my movie without creating a new movie clip each time?

I would like to pause shooting, then resume and keep it all on the same movie clip. I am getting a bunch of short movie clips when I stop shooting to wait for a pause in the action while shooting the grandchildren.

That's how it works, I'm afraid. It's not a camcorder.....

You can place them together with software and make it continuous but not with your camera. Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wfooshee

That's how it works, I'm afraid. It's not a camcorder.....

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That is too bad, but I guess I can live with it.

Updating to the latest firmware in your D7000 camera

Here is what you do

Go to Setup Menu and scroll to Firmware version. The latest version is
A 1.02
B 1.03
L 1.002

If you find out that you have an earlier version and want to update, then you will need the following.

Fully charged battery
D7000 camera
computer to download files from internet to and to place download on formatted SD card
SD card with pictures removed and then formatted in the camera
5 to 10 minutes of time

To find out what changes the update makes and to get directions of how to do it you need to go to the address below
Cameras from Nikon | D-SLR and Digital Cameras, Lenses, & More

After you reach the site you need to do the following
Click on Service and Support
Next click on Download Center
Next click on the most recent Nikon firmware versions
Scroll down to the D7000 and click on 1.03 and follow the directions. MAKE SURE YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE D7000 firmware

Updating your software is not very hard to do, don't let it intimidate you, so go ahead and give it a go. Jeff

If you take movies with your D7000 and have not tried tip #75, I would like to suggest that you check it out! I haven't done a lot of video yet but do find assigning the "Preview button" as the button to start and stop video recording MUCH MORE CONVENIENT and a LOT EASIER to use. The Preview button is bigger, easier to locate and you can actually feel the button moving when it is pressed. Give it a try, I think you will find it works better. Jeff

Thanks! I will take a look.

Jeff-
The latest firmware actually has new lens profiles. The L 1.002 is actually L 1.006. Just got my (new) replacement today and that's what the firmware reads.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n8

Jeff-
The latest firmware actually has new lens profiles. The L 1.002 is actually L 1.006. Just got my (new) replacement today and that's what the firmware reads.

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That must be a really new update because I had just downloaded mine four days ago and the numbers I posted then were the latest ones. I guess I will have to do it again to get the newest version. Thanks for letting me know. Jeff

That's a curiosity. I wonder if it's because my updates (the defunct, replaced camera too) were done by nikon while being serviced.

Setting White Balance for "Sunrise" and "Sunset" pictures

The Auto White balance works very well on the D7000 the vast majority of times when shooting but for when you are trying to take Sunrise or sunset pictures the Auto WB setting will make your pictures come out looking more on the cool side than I think you might like and diminish the golden tones that these images are known for. When you use Auto WB your camera is trying to balance the colors in each scene to white or any mid-range grays that may be in the picture. Auto WB will do this on each and every shot and may also cause a difference it the color from shot to shot as it adjusts.

How to change your White Balance

Press the info button to turn on the rear LCD screen
Next press and hold down the "WB" button on the rear of the camera on the left side of the screen
While holding down the "WB" button rotate the rear thumb dial until the sun icon appears
This also can be viewed in the smaller LCD screen on the top of your camera

My tip for this week is to suggest to you to try using the Daylight setting in WB for your Sunrise and Sunset pictures so that you will get more of those warm and golden color tones that you will probably be looking for on these types of shots. After all, one of the things that draws the person viewing the photo of the early morning Sunrise and late afternoon Sunset pictures are the warm golden tones that the sun gives your image. Also note that if you are shooting RAW or NEF files the WB can be adjusted after the fact in post processing. Jeff