They're Getting Braver

[Loupey]

A few weeks ago I posted some images of them peering through the open door. Now they're poking their heads inside.

Testing out the 50mm 1.8 on the 30D. The first one is with the strobe. These guys are so quick that I can clearly see the head illuminated when the pre-flash fires from 430EX just before my viewfinder winks out. But these guys could duck back before the flash fires the main pulse - talk about reaction time! Can't set the flash to manual mode while it is off-camera in slave mode No evaluative pre-flash in manual. Had similar "frightening" effects shooting birds last year with strobes off-camera.

So switched to ambient light only. Had to push the 30D up to ISO 1600 just to get 1/90s at f/2.8. Finally got one to "pause" long enough.

Still way early, but the 28mm, 50mm, and 85mm primes all seem like stellar performers. Will continue to post examples shortly.

Will eventually resume shooting real subject outdoors soon Busy at work, busy at home, yada yada yada...

[payn817]

Soon they'll be sleeping at your feet

I'm lovin the primes myself lately. Yet another thing you got me interested in. First long glass, then macro, now primes. When I'm broke and homeless, me and my gear will come a knockin.

[Loupey]

I'm lovin the primes myself lately. Yet another thing you got me interested in. First long glass, then macro, now primes. When I'm broke and homeless, me and my gear will come a knockin.

You and me both, Payn! When I sold off all my 35mm film stuff (with all primes), I had this bright idea that I could replace it all with 3 "L" zooms. Now, several g's later, I'm back full circle with zooms sitting on the shelf. Good for sports stuff (yuck - what's that!?!).

The 28mm and even the 50mm are sharper at f/2.8 than the corresponding zooms wide open at f/2.8. Not surprising being zooms wide open but I was surprised at how much sharper these cheap primes are. Being that the zooms had that red strip around it and all

True the 28/50 wide open is quite soft. But the 85mm wide open is spectacular. Stopped down 1 stop, that short tele is sharp!

So here's my (N/W) game plan:

300mm with tubes or TC for long reach wildlife and macros
180mm straight for high mag stuff
85mm with tubes for "arms reach" macro when using strobes handheld off-camera
28mm for scenics

Should all fit nice and tidy.

[drg]

The paws in that first shot are just rich.

You may need to figure out a setting for the flash, play with first or second curtain sync to get the squirrel 'frozen' and shoot full manual so there's no extra lights. I wonder if squirrels can't also see into the IR range so they get zapped on two scores during preflash. Even try locking up the mirror so there's no extra sound. Animals will respond to sounds we don't hear just as much as lights and motion.We get use to all the sound effects of our cameras and don't even think about them.

Will be awaiting more squirrelly photos

[Loupey]

Thanks, drg. The only way I can see using manual mode on the 430EX off-camera is using the Off-Camera Shoe Cord (which I just got). Using the ST-E2 transmitter and having the 430 in slave mode was never good for wildlife anyway (the 430 blinks an obnoxious red LED to show that it's in slave mode).

You know I'm eventually gonna slap a wide angle or super wide angle (might have a use for that 17-40mm afterall) to get these fellas

Coming soon...

[Jaedon]

wouldn't a little bit of electrical tape over the led fix that problem Loupey?

[Loupey]

wouldn't a little bit of electrical tape over the led fix that problem Loupey?

Probably But I think the IR receiver is in the same module right next to it. I'll look into it.

I do admit that the LED is useful in one respect: when I have my 10 meter shutter release cable and have no clue if my old 10D fell asleep (which also turns off the ST-E2 transmitter which then turns off the strobes), I would tap the remote shutter release and know everything was awake when I saw my 430's blinking again.

I could leave the power on, but sometimes the wait is quite long. Such as it is this thing called photography

[Loupey]

Nope. Neither tape nor my entire hand will block the IR signal (at close range).

2nd image = the annoying red eye

[Jaedon]

ahh well.. it was the thought that counts lol

[Loupey]

Hey, drg, 17mm shots from this morning

The camera on a box on the floor. Nut/squirrel about a 1' away. Flash on camera but bounced backwards. Mirror lockup with release cable. Triggering the mirror lock-up fires the preflash and gets it done with and out of the way. Then wait 60 seconds before the mirror flips down to trip the shutter without any delay to catch the squirrels red-handed.

Time to find something else.

[Copy_Kot]

Loupey, I still can't figure out why you do not like the 17-40mm so much... all of your images look outstanding. I was thinking about buying that lens mostly for landscapes, and now I can't decide between it and the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM (I think I might rather have a not so wide "L" lens). So many decisions

And I love the squirrel shots btw.

[Loupey]

Thanks for looking, Copy.

The problem that I have with the 17-40 is that it does everything OK but not one thing particularly great. It is light and it does zoom - so I consider it a "kit" lens. Manufacturing-wise, it is difficult to make a good super-wide lens so for a zoom at that I guess its OK. Sharpness is a problem, and the f/4 is a big problem for me (as I do quite a bit of non-N/W city shooting).

I've heard good things about the Tokina 12-24mm AT-X. Might want to check it out. If I had my way in an ideal world, I would buy a 5D and stick a 20mm on it. Now if only I can find $3,800 forgotten in a pants pocket somewhere

You were saying something about there always being something more to buy...

[Copy_Kot]

Thanks for explaining a little more about the 17-40mm Loupey, I think I'll go with the 10-22mm... I can always crop out the things that I don't want in an image. Buying new gear is almost have the fun, lol.