N/W specific Macro work, Extension Tube or New Lens

[Singletracklovr]

During spring and early summer I really get the itch to get close in my outdoor photography.
Bees, bugs, lizards, snakes, plants you name it, I like to shoot it.
I don't have a macro lens or extension tubes right now.

If you shoot these subjects what do you use for your outdoor macro work?

I would really like something better than 1:5 and my sharpest piece of glass right now is a Nikon ED AF Nikkor 300mm f4,
would it be dumb to use extension tubes on this lens for the above subjects? Would a 90mm macro be better for these types of shots?

[Loupey]

You know what I'm going to say

Go for the tubes for the following reasons:
1) cheaper than a new lens
2) easier to carry around
3) can use existing equipment
4) better (farther) camera-to-subject working distance when used with your longer lenses
5) better (shallower) angle of view when used with your longer lenses

Even though I have a dedicated macro (180mm), I rarely use it in the field. I hike extremely light - one camera, one lens, a 2x, and a set of tubes. I've shot more "macros" using tubes with either my 300mm f/4 or my 500mm f/4 than with my macro lens.

Although I am considering trying out the 100mm IS (Canon) version.

[Singletracklovr]

Hi Loupey,
Welcome back from vacation, you were missed.
In researching Extension Tubes it look like there are two types.
A set with and without electrical connectors.
Since most Macro work is manually focused are the electrical connection needed?

thanks

[mjs1973]

The electrical connections are used for more than just focusing so I say get the ones with the connections. The connections will allow you meter and set your aperture. Most of the newer lenses don't have an aperture ring anymore so the ability to have the lens and camera communicate is very important.

[Loupey]

Most definitely buy the set with contacts for the main reason that Mike mentioned.

But also consider that you need the contacts so that the camera will record the complete EXIF data (although the tube itself is "transparent" to the camera). It is important to be able to know what lens was for future reference.

[Singletracklovr]

Thank you both for the advice. I am really looking forward to trying this.

[Loupey]

You're welcome - I think you'll like them.

Personally I think a 300mm with tubes is the perfect macro combination for field work. The extra working length keeps shy subjects from fleeing (sometimes ) and also minimizes a tripod leg from disturbing a spider web, or a dew covered flower, ...

My "Ice Sculpture" image from a few days ago was taken with my 300mm/tube combo. I realize that I haven't posted samples in my extension tube thread above so here are a couple you might have seen elsewhere. EXIF data included. All are uncropped.

Hope that helps.

[Singletracklovr]

Wow those are really nice.
I have seen a couple of them on your website. I can only hope to get something this nice.

I have read through your Extension tube sticky several times. I understand a little more each time I read it however I was having some trouble using that info to select a field setup.
These pictures really show me what is possible with my 300mm. You are too kind my friend.

[Sushigaijin]

To deviate slightly from the pack, a short macro lens is very nice if you have to wrangle or work in a close area. When I shoot small snakes, I'd rather be closer than farther away - being in close keeps them on edge, and because of this they are less likely to move. Sometimes the (=)300mm + tube is TOO much working distance. An aps-c lens in the 60 or 90mm range seems about right, I know there are very good lenses in both lengths.

(=)100mm macro


When it's a rattlesnake, it's usually the telephoto and tubes.

(=)324mm + 25mm tube

[Singletracklovr]

Those are nice Erik, thanks for taking time to post them. I mostly see Prairie Rattlers and Bull snakes where I shoot.

I just ordered a set of Kenko Teleplus DG Extension Tubes 36, 20, and 12.
There was a note in the writeup; autofocus could not be guaranteed do to the 3stop light loss. I assume this is no big deal since you mostly set the lens to Infinite and move the camera body... Right?

[Loupey]

There was a note in the writeup; autofocus could not be guaranteed do to the 3stop light loss. I assume this is no big deal since you mostly set the lens to Infinite and move the camera body... Right?

You do actually use the full focus range of the lens. The magnification and subject distance will vary quite a bit by changing the focus. For example, if I use the 20mm and 36mm tubes together with the 300mm (my usual setup for small subjects), the total range of focus will be 3' to 8' approximately.

But yeah, no big deal on the lack of AF because with macro you have to be dead-on with the focus anyway and that is best done with MF.