You're welcome Just keep in mind that the key here is how the built-in camera functions. The meter ALWAYS tries to make EVERY exposure a medium gray. So a light scene (snow, sand, etc) is always rendered darker (underexposed) and a dark scene (stage, shadowy background, etc) is always rendered lighter (overexposed) by the camera. So instead of trying to compensate on what the camera is trying to do, it's easier to simply analyze the light falling on the subject.

Once you master this, I'll introduce a really easy fill flash technique to go with it.

The best analogy I've ever come across regarding exposure is this: think of "proper" exposure for any scene as a pail full of water (light being the water). There are only two ways to fill a pail; 1) open the faucet (rate = aperture) partway for a long time (time = shutter), or 2) open the faucet all the way for a short time. As long as the pail is completely full (proper exposure), it doesn't really matter what combination you used. But if the pail is half empty (underexposed) or overfilling (overexposed), you didn't get what you were after.

How does the ISO fit in this analogy? Think of ISO as controlling the size of the pail.

Hope this helps. The moment you realize just how simple a thing exposure is and how you can control it, that is the moment you have full control of any situation.