Questions for film shooters

[mjs1973]

I'm planning on doing a lot of film shooting this fall, once the floliage turns colors. I'm pretty new to shooting slide film, but I love it, and want to try more. I have a pile of Velvia 50, and a roll of Provia 100 right now. I'm planning on ordering some things from B&H and some more Provia 100 and a few rolls of Provia 400 are on my list. I'm wondering what Kodak has to offer in a color saturated slide film. I see they have Kodachrome, Ectachrome and Elete Chrome, each followed by a differant set of letter combinations, but I don't know the differance. Any recomendations or a brief explanation as to the differances?

I'm also thinking of getting a B+W color enhancing filter to really bring out the fall colors. Do you think this would take some of these films over the top? I'm planning on getting a film scanner soon, so tweeking the color in the computer will be possible, so maybe the filter would be waste of $. Any thoughts on this?

[another view]

Am I still allowed to answer this one? I still have a rangefinder!

I never used a lot of filters with B&W because I was planning on scanning - so I could not only do it later but have more control of exactly how much "red filter" I wanted. If you were doing your own darkroom prints it would be another story, but if you plan on scanning I'd skip the filters.
You'll have a hard time finding someone to process Kodachrome. I think there might be two places in the US that still do it. OTOH, you might want to try it while you have the chance. Make sure to shoot something with red in the frame; Kodachrome red is pretty intense.

I never liked Ektachrome films that much. E100GX might be a good one for fall foliage though - it's a warm toned film. E100VS is very saturated like Velvia, but a totally different look. E100G is pretty nice though - it's very neutral so I probably wouldn't grab it for nature, Velvia is still the one IMO. Elite Chrome is the consumer version of one of these, I think E100G. Nice film and you can find it anywhere. I don't think they have an ISO400 film, and I thought the 200 was really grainy and flat looking. Fuji's 400 is excellent though.

[racingpinarello]

I would stick with Fuji. When I went to Argentina last year I tried E100VS instead of my trusted friend, Velvia.

When I shot medium format, some of my best shots came from E100VS, but I was very disappointed with the 35mm version. So much grain.

If you use color intensifiers, I would bracket but I think the most important tool to have is a circular polarizer. Glare is the number one color killer out there, and once you take it away the colors will come back.

I've pretty much switched to Provia since the grain is so good, and the colors are incredible. Velvia will be missed, but Provia 100 has the best all around features and once you start scanning you will find out how hard Velvia is to scan in comparison to Provia.

Loren

[mjs1973]

Thanks for the info and advice guys!!

I'm going to try a roll or two of Kodachrome just for kicks. The lab that does my E-6 processing, has a lab they send Kodachrome to, so I can get it done without any special trips or sending it away myself.

Thanks again for the info.

[Trevor Ash]

I want to second everything that Loren just said. He's right on the money. I know this because he's been using those tools for a while, successfully.

About the polarizer: The reason it helps with the colors is because there is a lot of reflection and specular type light coming off the leaves. The leaves are where the color is at. Removing the reflection means more color. DO DO DO being a polarizer along. 10% of the time it's not necessary if the lighting is good...it's up to you whether it's right or not given the drawbacks (as much as two stops darker, having to fiddle with it, shooting into the sun).

Also, with Fuji Velvia and Provia, to bring out the colors, two down, one up when you think you've got a winning composition/scene. These films (any film actually) really excel at saturating colors when slightly underexposed. It makes them richer and deeper. Lauren must be saving this tip for himself

Above all, have fun with whatever tools you bring with you.

[mjs1973]

Thanks for reafirming everything Trevor! I will be sure to pack my polarizer too!!

[another view]

These films (any film actually) really excel at saturating colors when slightly underexposed.

Forgot to mention, most people shooting Kodachrome 64 expose it at 80 for this reason.

[mjs1973]

Thanks Steve, I just ordered 3 rolls of Kodachrome 64 last night! Then just process as normal?

[Trevor Ash]

Thanks Steve, I just ordered 3 rolls of Kodachrome 64 last night! Then just process as normal?

Yep............

[mjs1973]

You Guys ROCK!

[another view]

Thanks Steve, I just ordered 3 rolls of Kodachrome 64 last night! Then just process as normal?

Yep... If you're thinking of the "expose at 80" thing, yes - just process normally which is a 1/3 stop underexposure. I don't know but have never heard of push or pull processing for Kodachrome. It's not an E6 film - it's a completely different process, that's why it's hard to find someone who does it. Like I said, there are literally only a couple places in the country that do it anymore so they're sending it out.

[mjs1973]

Yes, expose at 80, and process normally is what I was thinking. I did a quick search yesterday to find a lab, but I didn't come up with much. I was at work so I didn't have a lot of time. I take my E-6 stuff to a local guy, who has a lab from Appleton (about 3 hours north of here) that has a daily route and picks up his E-6 film. I called the Appleton lab yesterday, and they said they have a place they send Kodachrome to, so I should be good to go!

[ajuk]

"B+W color enhancing filter"

Is That a Polarizer?

[mjs1973]

"B+W color enhancing filter"

Is That a Polarizer?

Nope. You can check it out here. The description they give, is about all I know about them.

[Trevor Ash]

Nope. You can check it out here. The description they give, is about all I know about them.

All,
I think that was confusing a lot of people (including Steve ). B+W is a brand name, as referenced by Mike's link. Heck, even the description linked to screwed it up. It is indeed a filter intended for color photography.

[mjs1973]

Ahh, yes, a filter for color photography, not black and white. But I think Steves advice is still on the money. I imagine everything this filter can do, can be duplicated, with much more control once scanned. I would still like to see the differance on film, but I'm not going to spend the money on it, just to experiment.

[another view]

Oops. I've never used a color enhancing filter before, but a polarizer is a good idea. Since I haven't used it, it's hard to say - but I still think it might be better to shoot without the filter and then add a little saturation if needed in Photoshop.

Photoshop makes it so easy to add way too much of a good thing - I'd recommend getting monitor calibration software instead of the filter, and "keep it real"...