Hi, I'm responding out of memory, not notes, but I bet there are others that can verify. You don't need to take a separate class for fiber, it's very similar to RC.

Times - Double the time in the developer and the fix from what you would do for RC. After the fix, dip it in water (some people skip the water dip) and soak it in hypo clear for a few minutes (I forget how many minutes, maybe 5-10 minutes). You have to soak it in hypoclear or else your water rinse is going to be for forever because as it is, it's a 15-20 minute rinse. Agitation is still important throughout the process.

Paper quality - Fiber is beautiful paper but when it gets wet, it's soft, so be careful with the tongs on it.

DRYING - Let it dry flat, it won't hold its shape like RC does. It will be wrinkled when it dries so you need to press it in a hot press. Fiber will dry darker and flatter than how the print looks when it's wet so expose in the enlarger with this in mind.

SELENIUM - This is an archival toner and can add contrast to your final print. It is hazardous so you have to dispose of it property and make sure you get proper ventilation when using it. I would stay away from toning unless you really need it.

BRANDS and CONCENTRATIONS - I don't think there is such a thing as a "beginner brand" of paper, determine what your final output is and find the paper to match that need. Browse on the internet using key search terms. Good luck!