Pre-set modes aren't cutting the mustard anymore

[julestx]

I am trying to learn about aperture, ISO, shutter speed but the process is going to be long and arduous on my brain. My problem right now, is I have one chance on friday to get some good pics of an indoor graduation, and I would like some advice on some settings to try.

I have a 55-200mm lens or a 70-300mm lens to use (or the one that came with the camera, but I never use it). I figured I would need the longer lens to be able to get better/closer photos, but then I know they will come out grainy or blurred or dark. What would be a good set of #'s to try on the settings for that scary 'triangle' of adjustments, in a gymnasium with a moderate amount of light through high windows, plus some fluorescent lights? Thanks to anyone who has a moment to give me some tips! I will test them out a few minutes early in the gym before the action starts...I'm assuming too many flashes might annoy people ...

[Franglais]

An important event is not the moment to make experiments. If you know how to use an appropriate program mode (sport in this case) then use that

Get in as close as you can so that you don't need to use the longer lens and you can use "the one that came with the camera but you never use". If you use a long lens then:

- you are likely to get camera shake (magnified by the lens longer lens)
- maximum aperture of the lens may be lower i.e. less light getting through

The ideal lens here would be an available-light tele like the 85mm f1.8. Your 55-200 and 70-300 are better for outdoors.

You haven't told us anything about your equipment. It sounds like you have Nikon so I will use Nikon terms:

1. Set the highest ISO that you can on your camera (example: 3200 ISO)
2. Set Aperture priority on your camera
3. Set the Aperture to wide open (the lowest figure you can: f4.5 for example)
4. Make sure the VR anti-shake thing (if you have it) is active
5. Hold the camera steady, using a support if possible
6. Do your shot when the subject is not moving to avoid subject movement blur
7. Don't zoom in too much (see what I said earlier about the problems of a longer lens)
8. Try to avoid using a shutter speed slower than 1/the focal length you are using (but the camera will set that anyway)

[julestx]

Great Charles, thank you. Yes I am using a Nikon D3000. I guess I get confused by the lenses. I think of your suggested 85mm, and the number is in the range of the 55-200mm of one of my lenses so it confuses me into thinking mine would work. I just don't have the knowledge yet.

I will put on the lens that came with the camera, thank you for that. I think when I know I have some good photos, I will then put on another lens just to experiment and show myself the difference (maybe, or I might get too scared I'll miss snapping something great and be too afraid to switch!).

I will do some photos with the settings you've suggested, and also use some of the camera's pre-set mode for sports. Thanks so much for taking the time to respond!

[armando_m]

if you use the 55-200 , use it at the 55mm end, where things look farther away
and use the rest of the advice that Charles kindly gave you

[Frog]

Do you have a monopod?

If you could get in close a 50mm f/1.8 or 1.4 would be good but would be harder to get those casual shots. An f/1.8 costs a $100 +/-

Otherwise, listen to the experts above.

[julestx]

if you use the 55-200 , use it at the 55mm end, where things look farther away
and use the rest of the advice that Charles kindly gave you

Ok thank you. Will do.

[julestx]

Do you have a monopod?

If you could get in close a 50mm f/1.8 or 1.4 would be good but would be harder to get those casual shots. An f/1.8 costs a $100 +/-

Otherwise, listen to the experts above.

I don't have a monopod, only a tripod. I remember playing with the f values on the camera the other day and trying to dial down low, and for some reason it wouldn't go down past 4. I got frustrated (after playing with my camera for hours) and set it aside for a while. Maybe it was that I had it in some mode that was automatically setting the f value for me and it refused to go down further? As I dialed, the f value was moving up and down though. I've done a lot more reading since then and now its time to play with the camera again, though.

You know you have keen interest when you can't stop yourself from returning to the source of your frustration, over and over again and a fresh new day brings a new excitement to pick it back up.

[wfooshee]

It wouldn't go down past 4 because that's the maximum aperture for your lens. The markings on the lens will show you that. For example, a 55-200 f:3.5-5.6 zoom lens can zoom from 55 to 200 millimeters, and its maximum aperture is f:3.5 at 55mm, and f:5.6 at 200mm, and something in between as you adjust the zoom. If your lens said f:2.8 on its label, then it would go to that aperture. Same thing happens at the other end, but is not usually as much of a concern: the minimum aperture might be f:16, it might be f:32, it depends on the particular lens.

Another factor abut the presets "not cutting the mustard" is that without reading (and knowing) the manual you may not even know what the modes are doing. Some preset modes automatically select metering and focus as well as deciding the shutter speeds and apertures for you. One mode may force your focus onto the closest subject, whether that's what you really want or not. You have to find out what all the selections are in any particular preset.

[JETA]

I don't have a monopod, only a tripod. I remember playing with the f values on the camera the other day and trying to dial down low, and for some reason it wouldn't go down past 4. I got frustrated (after playing with my camera for hours) and set it aside for a while. Maybe it was that I had it in some mode that was automatically setting the f value for me and it refused to go down further? As I dialed, the f value was moving up and down though. I've done a lot more reading since then and now its time to play with the camera again, though.

You know you have keen interest when you can't stop yourself from returning to the source of your frustration, over and over again and a fresh new day brings a new excitement to pick it back up.

I'm not familiar with Nikon lens, so unclear on the specs. You'll have to learn how to read the specs of your lens so you know your limitation with your f-stop. For example. An old lens of mine is Tamron Zoom 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di. See the f/3.5-6.3? This means at the shortest length (28mm) I can only open up to f/3.5. If I telephoto out to 300mm my aperture can only go as wide as f/6.3.

To shoot an event like the one you are talking about I was use a constant f/2.8 lens with high iso. Any lens with a constant f/2.8 you are usually looking at $$. However, if you can get close enough to your subhect I know you can buy the 50mm (prime, no telephoto) f/1.8 pretty darn cheap.