Photo Help

[soundcannon]

Hey everyone I am taking a photo class at school and I have gotten a minalota maxxum 70 with the standard 20-100mm zoom lense and I will be running ISO 400 film and I was going to be taking some ladscape shots and sunset stuff and was wondering what shutter and f stops should I be running to bo this? I need some suggestions on different things like that. i was also wondering how accurate are the cammera spot meters and what metering I should have it set on for this type of shot.
thanks

[another view]

Hi - I moved this one to the Help forum and there are a lot of good questions here. I'm going to quote a couple of phrases in your post.

1. "taking some ladscape shots and sunset stuff and was wondering what shutter and f stops should I be running" Let's back up a bit - there are three things that determine exposure: aperture (as shown in f-stops on a lens), shutter speed and ISO speed (either film or digital). Think of exposure as an equation. A light meter reading will tell you what exposure you need, and you can vary these settings to get the effect you want. In other words, you might read 1/60 at f5.6 with ISO400 film. Since you're using ISO400 film, you can't change that part of the equation until you change film. You can move 1/60 and f5.6 around a little bit, but if you decrease the amount of exposure with one of these two settings then you need to increase the amount of exposure by an equal amount with the other. So from this, you could use 1/125 at f4, 1/250 at f2.8 or 1/500 at f2, etc. You could also go the other direction for 1/30 at f8, 1/15 at f11 or 1/8 at f16. Why you would do this depends on the effect that you want on film. My 1/60 at f5.6 with ISO400 is only an example - you need to meter every shot of course.

2. "also wondering how accurate are the cammera spot meters" Should be very accurate. Spot meters aren't the easiest thing to get comfortable with but they're really great tools to have once you learn what to do with it. If you have any doubts that the meter isn't working properly, have a camera store look at it. Understand that any meter built into your camera is reading exposure based on the thought that your subject is neutral toned 18% grey (or about the tonality of green grass). If you aim your spot meter at something lighter or darker than that, then you'll have to compensate for it. For example, I use one stop over the reading (or +1) for fog, +1.5 for snow or -1 for dark colors. I also use the spot meter for sunset shots by pointing it at a bright part of the sky (not the sun!) and set my exposure at +1 over the reading (if it reads 1/60 at f5.6, then I'd either use 1/30 at f5.6 or 1/60 at f4, etc).

3. "what metering I should have it set on for this type of shot" Depends on the camera and how you want to do it. Some cameras have spot, center weighted and matrix (or evaluative) metering patterns built in. Personally, I use my spot meter a lot when I'm taking a lot of time to set up a shot like this and nothing's moving except for changing light.

[soundcannon]

So really you use the reading from the spot meter and if you wan't to stop action run a higher shutter speed and larger apeture and if you want to show actoin do the reverse of that is rather simple. So if the meter recomended 1/60 at f4 you could run 1/30 at f5.6 to show the movement. I was also wondering how do you get a blured background to just focus on one subject. and vise versa how can you bulr the subject matter in front and clear up the back.and on the +1 and +1.5 are you talking about the exposure compensation. WOuld I just have to play with my cammera a little to see what I would need to use in these situations. does + mean make it darker and - mean lighter.
thanks

[zrfraser]

I have the same camera so maybe I can be of some help at least about the blur you are wanting to achieve. Also, maybe I can help with stopping motion,

1/30 or lower-subject must be stationary to stop motion, also must use a tripod to keep camera steady, if not your image will be blurred...unless you want this effect.

1/60-good for a stationary object or a very slow moving one, you can also hand hold quite easily.

1/125-can stop a brisk walk

1/500-can stop or freeze a run

1/1000 can stop most things that are moving extremely fast

1/2000 can freeze anything

to achieve a blurred background or foreground then you are talking about depth of field. The smaller your aperture then the greater depth of field you have. Everything will be focus form foreground to background. An easy way to remember this the bigger the f/stop number the greater your depth of field. You can check your depth of field with the DOF preview button located (if you are looking at the lens from the front) the bottom left of the camera body close to the lens. Also, a longer lens can influence DOF. A longer lens is the smaller your depth of field.

I hope this helps, and I hope that their isn't any errors, if there is I'm sure a senior member of this great sight will point them out.

Good Luck-Zack

[payn817]

Your meter should be excellent. Alot of factors go into deciding settings based on the effect you are looking for. Do some reasearch and it will help alot. Your class will also help, with no formal training it took me about 6 moths to really begin to make my systems do what I wanted, but I use multiple systems for different things, and did alot of experimenting before settling. So, just practice, research, and get a feel for what you want, it will come.

[another view]

From your reply - I'll try to answer these questions:

1. "So really you use the reading from the spot meter and if you wan't to stop action run a higher shutter speed and larger apeture and if you want to show actoin do the reverse of that is rather simple." Pretty much that simple. I don't always use the spot meter, but do generally use it when I have the time to use it and a subject that isn't moving. Higher (faster?) shutter speeds will tend to freeze motion which IMO doesn't always show motion. Experiment with slow shutter speeds too to see what a little blur will add to your shot. Doesn't always work, but it's a good technique sometimes. Larger apertures (lower "f" numbers) will let more light in from using a faster shutter speed, and they will give you less depth of field. Smaller apertures (higher "f" numbers) will give you more depth of field. This isn't a case of more being better; it depends on what you want the shot to look like.

2. "+1 and +1.5 are you talking about the exposure compensation" Yes - it's easier to type that way.

3. "how do you get a blured background to just focus on one subject. and vise versa how can you bulr the subject matter in front and clear up the back" First one - try panning. use a slow shutter speed, like 1/30 for someone running (for starters, no rules here) and whatever aperture you need to get that shutter speed. Focus on the runner and keep them in the same spot in the viewfinder, "panning" the camera as they go by. Press the shutter speed at some point and you'll get a blurred background and some parts of the runner will be fairly sharp (not legs and arms of course). For the opposite, focus on the background, use the same 1/30 or so and this time don't pan as the runner goes by. The runner will be blurred and the background will be sharp. This can work with a lot of different subjects; and not work with others.

I think it's important to realize that any "special effects" shots like these or other techniques like this can get really old quickly. Do it once in awhile and it will look a lot more exciting. Imagine if every runner shot you ever saw was done by panning with a slow shutter speed...

[soundcannon]

Ok thanks. Yeah I understand want to keep it interesting but me and my bros fly R/c helis doing 3d and such and I think an effect like that would be incredibly cool.
thanks

[soundcannon]

Ok I just got my cammera in today and put in some cheap film to get acuainted with it read the amnula and don't understand. The ev meter keeps reading -2 and the aperture won't get any bigger. I can seem to get it wo the 3 or 3.5f that it says it can go to. and I can't get the shutter to do what I want and it is in manual mode so someone with a minolta maxxum 70 please help and I cant get it to suggest a shutter of apperture for me it just does the ev meter thing.
help!

[another view]

A little confused by your last post...

Just to be a stickler for details, it's an exposure meter. It measures EV which is exposure value. Since it "knows" what ISO speed your film is and can also tell the shutter speed and aperture, it can tell you if you're properly exposed or not. If it just gave you an EV reading you'd have a number like "12" that you'd have to translate into exposure settings. Just for sake of clarification...

I don't know that camera but can you put it in manual mode? Set a really slow shutter speed, maybe 1 second, to see what the exposure meter does. If you're inside where it's fairly dark then maybe the shutter speed is set too fast. This would happen if you're at f3.5, ISO400 (just a guess) and a fast shutter speed - there wouldn't be any aperture setting that would give you a proper exposure reading.

[zrfraser]

With the camera on manual mode the dial next to the shutter button controls shutter speed. To change the aperture you have to press the button under the flash button (it has "AV" above it). While pressing in this button you can turn the same dial for shutter speed, and it will now control aperture. To make shure your aperture is actually working, you can press the depth of field button with is under the lens on the body. When you press the button you should see the aperture stop down or up to whatever aperture you have it on.

I hope this helps, if not ask it again

Good Luck-Zack

[soundcannon]

Yeah my aperture is working and everything in manual mode but I found if it gets to far in the negatives it will not alllow a larger aperture but that is what is needed unless you want to run a 1 second shutter. So I relly don't get It. I am playing with it moe documenting everything and going to develop them to see what they turn out like I am not really looking at taking a nice photo just to see things for function.
thank

[zrfraser]

your lens aperture rating is more than likely a f`3.5-5.6 (this means your largest opening will be 3.5, untill you zoom out then it will become a 5.6 maximum f/stop) which is relativley slow lens, meaning that you have to have more available light unless you want to use flash. It is hard to shoot in room light with a slow lens especially without flash. You can use a faster film (like 800) but that will make your pictures grainy especially when enlarging. Or invest in a good tripod you can do the longer exposures granted your subject isn't moving.

Good Luck-Zack

[soundcannon]

What type of lense for this cammera would you suggest I want one for inside and another for telephoto but what ypes would you suggest,
thanks

[zrfraser]

for inside shots without flash I would go with a 50mm f1.8-2.0. This will give 2-2.5 more stops which will allow you to shoot inside. However, a new lens could be pricey especially a prime 50mm for a aurofocus camera. What I would do if I were you is buy a bounce flash for your camera. You can get a decent one for about 50-70 bucks. These flashes don't have High Speed Sync, so you are stuck shooting at 1/90 or slower. The lenses I have for my Maxxum are the Sigma 28-90 Asperical, and the Sigma 70-300. These are both slow lenses, but I shoot outside mostly so its no big deal.

I was looking in the Porters catalog, and you can get a Minolta Maxxum 50mm f1.7 for 94.95. It all depends on which route you want to go, but it is hard to find a lot of lenses for the Maxxum body. I say buy a bounce flash and save your money and get the prime lens later. By the way what lenses are you using...

Good Luck-Zack

[soundcannon]

HOw fast can you shoot with these lenses outside? I will do moslty outside shooting so the bounce flash will probaly be fine.

[zrfraser]

For outside shooting you will not need a fast lens (fast lens meaning you have a smaller f number, so therefore you can shoot in darker situations) or bounce flash (but they are handy to have). With a bounce flash you can only shoot at 1/90 of a second or slower, because the sync speed on our cameras are set for 1/90th and slower. For outside shooting with available light you should be fine.

[soundcannon]

well I got up this morning put it in f5.6 and it read just fine. I am going to buy that hss flash I found one for 50 bucks so I will get that one.
thanks

[payn817]

For inside, the 50 1.7 and the 28 2.8 depending on what you want to do. Each will be around $75-90 used.

If I am not mistaken, there is no 50 1.8, unless very new or very old. Could be wrong though. They can be found fairly easily at pawnshops and local camera stores at the above price. If you goto a pawnshop, make sure you look it over good, and take it immediately to a camera store for a look (ask the pawnshop if they will let you, and refund if it is faulty). Some pawnshops will. I have often (especially recently) found pawnshop to be having 50-60% off sales on equiptment, especially film equiptment. So, that $75 prime (in a sale like that) could run you about 38 bucks. I got both of those... excellent glass, and flawless with 5D if you upgrade.

[soundcannon]

Yeah I am getting my shots developed and can't wait to see. I did some movment stuff some beach stuff but alot of them will show my love affair with my truck. I am going to put a word in the classafied page to look for some lenses what sizes of lenses would you suggest I I want to get some real far off stuff so I was wondering how far a 300mm would get me. I used this roll of crap film to get acquainted wiht my new toy and I reallly love that cammera it is real nice and does eveything I want and more
thanks

[payn817]

A 300mm would fill the frame with an object 12 feet, and at a distance of 100 feet. So, a six foot tall person 50 feet away would fill the frame. Here's a calculator to play with http://www.opsci.com/index.asp?paget...Calc&exten=htm

[soundcannon]

ok thanks much. Where can I find these lenses on ebay.
thanks

[soundcannon]

I need to know if this lense is good.