Lori/Camera shake

I was shooting indoors (bar) last night, some band photos. Just for fun, its a friends band. My problem is I cause the camera shake :rolleyes: I shake normally, just a little, (not noticeable) have since I was a child, runs in the family, that being said. Shooting in M or P or TV mode with out a monopod is out of the question so I had to resort to auto. Not happy with that but honestly dont know what else to do. Any ideas for a setting I can try? ( I use a Canon 50D)

Have you tried an IS lens?

Well, I was hoping for an option other than that lol but I am thinking I will just have to deal with it. I shoot almost everthing outside anyway...just thought I would ask :)

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Originally Posted by Lori11

I was shooting indoors (bar) last night, some band photos. Just for fun, its a friends band. My problem is I cause the camera shake :rolleyes: I shake normally, just a little, (not noticeable) have since I was a child, runs in the family, that being said. Shooting in M or P or TV mode with out a monopod is out of the question so I had to resort to auto. Not happy with that but honestly dont know what else to do. Any ideas for a setting I can try? ( I use a Canon 50D)

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I'm missing something. Why does Auto help with camera shake? - TF

Have you tried a string momopod? Couple of examples.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/drift-words/1678313/

http://www.gagethompson.com/blog/archives/185

TF

The mode won't make much difference, just it may automatically select a higher shutter speed, faster ISO and smaller aperture. You could do all that yourself :)
How much shake?
An IS lens won't cope with large amounts, nor will in-body stabilisation.
At the expense of using the battery fast, the Olympus E-P1 and a Panasonic OIS lens with both in-body and lens stabilisation systems on at once is rock solid. But even that is disturbed by hand movements.

A prime like the nifty fifty 50mm f1.8 would be nice. It is slightly telephoto so it gets you more into the action.

Push the ISO right up (3200 or 6400 ISO). Better to have a photo that is sharp with some noise than a blurred photo.

Try to find something solid that you can use to support the camera (examples: the bar, even a wall). You don't hold the camera normally - you press it firmly against the support while looking through the viewfinder as best you can. If possible you use a bean nag which will further support the camera. When you shoot you keep the camera still and just move your finger on the shutter button

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What settings was the camera choosing? Seems like whenever I use auto, it likes to keep the shutter speed around 1/60. Shooting in low light, like a band in a bar, there is no way 1/60 is going to freeze the action no matter how steady you are if the people are moving at all. I would think that shooting in any of the modes you mentioned would be better than auto. At least you can choose your own shutter speed with those modes, except for Tv. If you use Tv, set your aperture wide open to get the fastest ss.

The situation you described sounds to me more like a low light freeze the action kind of a problem, not a camera shake thing.

If a monopod is out of the question, you could always rest the camera on something else. A table, chair or the bar could work. Lean against the wall or something else to help steady yourself.

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Originally Posted by Lori11

I was shooting indoors (bar) last night, some band photos. Just for fun, its a friends band. My problem is I cause the camera shake :rolleyes: I shake normally, just a little, (not noticeable) have since I was a child, runs in the family, that being said. Shooting in M or P or TV mode with out a monopod is out of the question so I had to resort to auto. Not happy with that but honestly dont know what else to do. Any ideas for a setting I can try? ( I use a Canon 50D)

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Get a faster lens. A Canon 50mm F1.4 lens (F1.8 is cheaper) will give the faster lens not for a lot of cash also. A nice benefit of the 50mm lens is the effective angle of view is close to 75-80mm lenght which was used for portraits with 35mm film cameras. Also in a club it will give you a little more working range. But you will have to watch your DOF.

You are all right, I didnt explain myself very well. Auto doesnt "help" with it, but I get blur shooting in low light (like the bar), because I shake, not really the camera. Thank you all for helping me with this! :) I think I will stick to racing lol OC thanks for those links, I like the second one!

Lor11, I don't know what you use to process your images, but it is my understanding the Photoshop Elements can remove a certain amount of blur. I am not sure if every edition of PSE, e.g., 3,4,5... can remove blur, but I believe that Versions 6, 7 and 8 have some limited capacity to do this. There may be other Editing packages out there that can help, but I am not familiar with them. HTH.

Cheers,

WesternGuy

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Originally Posted by OldClicker

Have you tried a string momopod? Couple of examples.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/drift-words/1678313/

http://www.gagethompson.com/blog/archives/185

TF

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BTW - I like this idea. I've never tried it but I will soon..

Thanks WG, I have a few programs that I could try but honestly, I just dont think it can be fixed lol
Im use to shooting moving things so that could be the other problem ha! Y'all are great, thank you!