What equipment do I need?

[danic]

Hi Guys & Girls,

I'm finally looking into processing my own film. So far, I've identified film, film loader, blank film cassettes, chemicals, a changing bag, as well as a tank.

I've been looking on B&H for some gear as it's too expensive here in Oz.
Does anyone have any recommendations for what I should use? So far, I've added a film loader http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Bulk_Film.html and cassettes http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ded_Metal.html Does anyone have any recommendations on particular brands? The chemicals I'll have to buy locally as I don't think I can get them shipped from the US

I'm looking at Ilford FP4 ISO 125 film. Does anyone have any recommendations? I have yet to have a look through the forum, I thought some people might have some experience as to what is easy to use.

Cheers,
Daniel

[cameron665]

Hi Daniel, unless you are shooting heaps of film I wouldn't worry about a bulk loader. You may find that postage costs from the US may negate the cheaper prices. You can get some cheap developing tanks locally on ebay at the moment. If you can't be bothered with that I recently bought a new Paterson unitank from Vanbars for around $40. I went plastic only because I've used them before and didn't want a new learning experience with SS tank and reels. Plus plastic reels are adjustable so I can do 35 and 120.

[Xia_Ke]

Hi Daniel, very glad to hear you want to take the plunge into developing film Cameron makes a good point on bulk loading. I would skip that for now and if you find you start shooting tons of film, than take a look at that time. Film recommendations will come down to what type of shooting you will be doing and under what lighting conditions. Also, what type of feel are you looking for. If you like more of the traditional B&W films with some grain, take a looks at Kodak Plus-X or Ilford FP4 for 125 speed and Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5 for 400 speed. IF you prefer the cleaner, finer grain of modern B&W films, check out the Kodak TMAX or Ilford Delta lines. I've also been very happy with Fuji Acros 100 and Neopan 400. Do some searches on flickr. Most people will post film and developer combos so you can get a rough idea for the direction you want to take. As for chemicals and equipment, I'm going to cut and paste what I wrote for jgredline in another thread...

...Here's the basics of what you'll need IMO (everyone has their own methods and the debates to preferences can go on as long as film vs. digital but, this is my 2 cents)

Chemicals-
Developer: My recommendation would be HC-110. It's cheap, lasts forever, has many dilutions possibilities, and there is a TON of info out there on it. Use it one shot to avoid variations.
Stop Bath: Some people use just water, I prefer a stop bath such as Kodak's Indicator Stop Bath, it's cheap and I still haven't gone through a whole bottle of it yet. Again, this is one of those things that can be debated ad nauseum. Stop baths can be reused.
Fixer: There are basically 2 types of fixer, hardening such as Kodak Kodafix and non hardening such as Ilford Rapid Fixer. One thing to keep in mind is if you use a hardening fixer you will need Hypo Clearing Agent. Most films now from Kodak, Ilford, and Fuji have a hardening agent in the film so a hardening fixer isn't absolutely necessary. I hav been using Kodafix but, will soon be swapping over to Ilford Rapid Fixer and forgoing the Hypo. Fixers can be reused.
Washing Aid: (see fixer) if you go with a hardening fixer you will need to pick up some Hypo Clearing Agent. Use it single shot.
Wetting Agent: This helps water roll off your film so you don't wind up with spots. Kodak Photo Flo 200 is cheap and lasts forever. Some people reuse this, I use it single use.

"Equipment"-
Developing Tank and Reels: Steel or Plastic? Another debate that could go on forever. I'm using a Patterson Super System 4 with plastic autoload reels. They work great for me. If you go plastic, just make sure you keep the clean and you will have no problems.
Storage Bottles: You will want a storage bottle for each chemical you end up using. Since you will using 35mm and probably not going through a ton of film, I would recommend 1 quart bottles to start.
Graduated Cylinder: This is so you can accurately measure your chemicals. Any will do, glass or plastic.
Beakers: To simplify things, I would get one for each chemical you use so that you can have everything measured out and ready to go when you start.
Funnel: For pouring fixer and stop baths back into the storage bottles.
Thermometer: Get a reliable thermometer for chemicals. You'll need primarily to measure between 60 - 80 degrees at the extremes. 68F is considered ideal.
Timer: Any stop watch will do. I use the one on my cell phone...LOL
Changing Bag: If you don't have a completely dark place to load reels you will need a changing bag. The bigger you get, the more room you'll have to work and the easier it will be.
Film Clips: To hang your film to dry.
Bottle Opener: To open 35mm rolls. Any bottle opener will work.

I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but, most of the gear can be purchased for CHEAP on Ebay. I got my tank, 2 reels, thermometer, changing bag, film clips, funnel, and some beakers for about $40 shipped on Ebay. The chemicals will run another $30 - $40. As a comparison to having your film lab developed, I'm not sure if you have seen THIS THREAD but, it worked out using Kodak HC-110 dil. H, Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, Kodak Kodafix, Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, and Kodak Photo Flo 200 worked out to about $0.45 per roll of 35mm....

I hope this helps get the ball rolling for you. Please do not hesitate to ask if you have any questions :thumbsup:

Aaron

[reverberation]

If you can get a bulk loader cheap, don't hesitate. I have two currently, I will always buy bulk film because of the savings. Twenty five bucks for 100 feet of Fortepan is too good to pass up. Bulk film is easier to store as well. When I first developed my own film I was also loading my own film from a bulk loader so that is probably why I see a bulk loader as being more important.
I prefer Freestyle to B&H and would suggest checking them out.

[danic]

Ok, so I have another question. What scanner should I use to scan negatives? Do i need any plastic sleeves for them? Do I need any special software to convert the negative to a photo?

Sorry for the dumb questions, but someone has to ask them

I would like to get a bulk loader as I would like to buy bulk rolls and shoot that way.

[Xia_Ke]

The only dumb question is the one that goes unasked :thumbsup:

Like everything, recommendations will come down to your budget. I'm currently using an Epson 4490 Photo that I am very happy with. Was just under $100 shipped, refurbished direct from Epson. Works great. If you're shooting only 35mm I might recommend spending the extra money to get a Nikon Coolscan but, it's not necessary. If you go the flatbed route, just get a microfiber cloth and everytime you go to scan some new negatives, wipe down the glass and you won't have any major dust issues. Any scanner that has the ability to scan negatives should come with software that will make the conversion during scanning. I highly recommend checking out the Epson onlin clearance center for good deals:

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/B...yes&oid=-13268

I've sent a few people there and all have been happy with their scanners. Hope this helps

Aaron

[danic]

Thanks Aaron,

Do you know if you can use a "normal" flatbed scanner, with software specific to scanning 35mm negatives? Or do I have to use film specific scanners?
I'm looking at buying a scanner/printer/copier and I'm hoping that the one purchase will cover everything off all at once.

Cheers.

[Xia_Ke]

I don't believe you'll be able to use a regular flat bed. The scanners designed for film use will have backlighting in the lid. The negatives I have tried scanning with a normal flatbed sucked.

[danic]

$500 dollars later, and all my gear is on order, except a bulk loader. I bought bulk film, so I;ll have to find one from somewhere.

That $500 covered everything, scanner, film, all my chemicals, tanks, funnel, everything.

So by this time next week, I should have it all

[Xia_Ke]

That's not too bad for bulk film, chemicals, equipment, and a scanner. What did you end up going with for a scanner, chemicals, and film?

[danic]

I ended up with the same scanner you have, co-incidently.

For film, I bought HP5. I thought something reasonably fast would suit me better as I plan to do some urban/street photography and this would suit my need better than 100 speed.

For chemicals, I wasn't too sure, so I stuck with the Ilford range as I am using Ilford film. I bought ID-11, a rapid fixer and wetting agent. I'll use water as a stopper and see how it goes.

Can't wait to shoot and process

[Xia_Ke]

I think you'll be very happy with the HP5. I just swapped to shooting that as well after getting a good deal on a bunch of it. I've been happy with the results so far in HC110 and am interested to hear how it does in ID-11

...Can't wait to shoot and process

Can't wait to see the results :thumbsup:

[photophorous]

Ilford's ID-11 is very similar to Kodak's D-76, practically the same. I've used a lot of D-76 and it's a great developer. You can shoot HP-5 anywhere from 200 to 1600 ISO, with great results, so this is a very versatile combo. You picked a great place to start. Have fun and post some photos when you can.

Paul

[reverberation]

I use ID-11 and find it very similar to D-76. One thing I wanted to mention is to test out the bulk loader for light leaks with a small strip of film before loading it(put a small strip of film in the loader, shine a bright light around all the seals and then develop the film). You can also do alot of fun effects with your scanner when scanning film. I think it enhances the whole photographic experience, film that is.

[danic]

Good idea reverberation, I'll have to try that out.

Cheers!

[danic]

So I sacrificed a roll of Superia 200 to practice rolling it onto the reels. Almost every time I've not been able to get it perfect.

Does it have to be perfect? Sometimes the film gets crinkled and other times it just doesn't wind properly onto it.

Does anyone have any tips for winding film onto stainless steel reels? Its for 35mm btw.

[ComicDom1]

Hi Daniel, unless you are shooting heaps of film I wouldn't worry about a bulk loader. You may find that postage costs from the US may negate the cheaper prices. You can get some cheap developing tanks locally on ebay at the moment. If you can't be bothered with that I recently bought a new Paterson unitank from Vanbars for around $40. I went plastic only because I've used them before and didn't want a new learning experience with SS tank and reels. Plus plastic reels are adjustable so I can do 35 and 120.

I have some metal developing tanks still. I may be putting some up in our for sale forum at a reasonable price for those who might be interested. I believe they are the Patterson brand. All I have to do now is locate the box in my garage or shed, so if you want or are looking for one, feel free to email me at ComicDom1@aol.com

Thanks
Jason

[ComicDom1]

Thanks Aaron,

Do you know if you can use a "normal" flatbed scanner, with software specific to scanning 35mm negatives? Or do I have to use film specific scanners?
I'm looking at buying a scanner/printer/copier and I'm hoping that the one purchase will cover everything off all at once.

Cheers.

The Epson 4490 might do the trick for you. I do not know how well it does on 35mm but it does offer a document feeder and you can get a refurb cheap. The V500 is currently what some are using for scanning 35mm. Personally I use a Benq for my 35mm and I have an Epson V700 on the way. Its supposed to do both so I am going to see how they compare. Digital Ice is a must in any scanner you get for your negatives. Some will tell you that Digital Ice does not work on B&W negatives, and that is true. The solution of course is to just scan your B&W negative in as color and work around it.

Jason

[reverberation]

I have always scanned my B&W in color after trying greyscale. Many newspapers are now printing B&W photos using four color process. When loading film onto a reel it must be perfect. Check to ensure the reel is not bent and see if it is binding in the same spot. Make sure you cut the leader off the film so that the lead edge is straight.

[danic]

So I've been practicing all day (well most of it), and it seems I've got it down reasonably well, considering the film has been wound and un-wound perhaps 20 times now.

All I need is a film loader...