Loving BW film more and more......

[jgredline]

Hmmm, OK, then I will give it a go

[Xia_Ke]

WOOHOO! ...LOL Have you done any reading/research into any of the chemicals or supplies you want? Here's the basics of what you'll need IMO (everyone has their own methods and the debates to preferences can go on as long as film vs. digital but, this is my 2 cents)

Chemicals-
Developer: My recommendation would be HC-110. It's cheap, lasts forever, has many dilutions possibilities, and there is a TON of info out there on it. Use it one shot to avoid variations.
Stop Bath: Some people use just water, I prefer a stop bath such as Kodak's Indicator Stop Bath, it's cheap and I still haven't gone through a whole bottle of it yet. Again, this is one of those things that can be debated ad nauseum. Stop baths can be reused.
Fixer: There are basically 2 types of fixer, hardening such as Kodak Kodafix and non hardening such as Ilford Rapid Fixer. One thing to keep in mind is if you use a hardening fixer you will need Hypo Clearing Agent. Most films now from Kodak, Ilford, and Fuji have a hardening agent in the film so a hardening fixer isn't absolutely necessary. I hav been using Kodafix but, will soon be swapping over to Ilford Rapid Fixer and forgoing the Hypo. Fixers can be reused.
Washing Aid: (see fixer) if you go with a hardening fixer you will need to pick up some Hypo Clearing Agent. Use it single shot.
Wetting Agent: This helps water roll off your film so you don't wind up with spots. Kodak Photo Flo 200 is cheap and lasts forever. Some people reuse this, I use it single use.

"Equipment"-
Developing Tank and Reels: Steel or Plastic? Another debate that could go on forever. I'm using a Patterson Super System 4 with plastic autoload reels. They work great for me. If you go plastic, just make sure you keep the clean and you will have no problems.
Storage Bottles: You will want a storage bottle for each chemical you end up using. Since you will using 35mm and probably not going through a ton of film, I would recommend 1 quart bottles to start.
Graduated Cylinder: This is so you can accurately measure your chemicals. Any will do, glass or plastic.
Beakers: To simplify things, I would get one for each chemical you use so that you can have everything measured out and ready to go when you start.
Funnel: For pouring fixer and stop baths back into the storage bottles.
Thermometer: Get a reliable thermometer for chemicals. You'll need primarily to measure between 60 - 80 degrees at the extremes. 68F is considered ideal.
Timer: Any stop watch will do. I use the one on my cell phone...LOL
Changing Bag: If you don't have a completely dark place to load reels you will need a changing bag. The bigger you get, the more room you'll have to work and the easier it will be.
Film Clips: To hang your film to dry.
Bottle Opener: To open 35mm rolls. Any bottle opener will work.

I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but, most of the gear can be purchased for CHEAP on Ebay. I got my tank, 2 reels, thermometer, changing bag, film clips, funnel, and some beakers for about $40 shipped on Ebay. The chemicals will run another $30 - $40. As a comparison to having your film lab developed, I'm not sure if you have seen THIS THREAD but, it worked out using Kodak HC-110 dil. H, Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, Kodak Kodafix, Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, and Kodak Photo Flo 200 worked out to about $0.45 per roll of 35mm.

Okay, it's past my bed so please forgive me if I'm forgetting something but, please do not hesitate to ask any questions and believe me when I say that after doing your first roll you will be posting here about how you can't believe how easy it is...LOL

[reverberation]

I have a bunch of Canon lenses for my AE-1, all of them primes, and they are the sharpest consumer level lenses I have seen. I like plus-x more than tri-x. Aarons post is excellent and I can only suggest, as he does, using Ilford Rapid Fixer. Everything he says is dead on. I use brown 64 oz. bottles that I get from a local brew pub to store my chemicals. I prefer glass to plastic for storing chemicals because glass is easier to check after cleaning. I only have plastic tanks and find them to be perfect.

[jgredline]

Thanks Guys. I have ordered and begun to put my ''lab'' LOL together. I will be bugging with questions shortly.

[Xia_Ke]

...I will be bugging with questions shortly.

That's what we're here for. Fire away when ready :thumbsup:

[jgredline]

Here are some Black and whites I shot with Tri - x.
Some are re-shoots..I missed the exposer on some, but live and learn.

[jgredline]

Here are some images I shot with BW400CN Film..It seems to have a sharper look compared to Tri X but Tri X has a more vintage look about it... I also need to remember to stop down 1/2 stop...I am still learning, but having tons of fun.

Here is a hamster cage that my shop foreman built. It took him about a year to build it. It is an engine he cut in half and well, here you have it...




Here is a peek inside the kitchen of one of my favorite Mexican Restaurants. ''EL TEPEYAC'' in the middle of ELA..



My Daughter Krisanie.
She just turned 20. She is my second oldest. Daddy's girl..



My Twins, Daniel and Claire. I focused on Claire. I should have stopped the lens way down. Live and learn.



Daniel shooting something.




He pretty much took possession of the K100D super with it's 28-300 Tamron super zoom



Here is a race engine and some race shortblocks.






A trip through the grave yard.







Here is a fountain at the San Gabriel mission.





And a day at the pond.

[Xia_Ke]

Looking good Javier :thumbsup: I particularly like the engine shots. They make for some great tones. Might make for a good B&W photo essay

If you want sharp film, Tri-X is NOT the film for you. It's great film but, it's one you buy for the grain. If you want SHARP, check out the new TMAX 400. It's incredibly sharp. Or, if you want a good compromise, try Neopan 400, it's sharp with a bit of grain.

[jgredline]

Aaron
On these last two shots I posted above, any idea on what caused the halo?

[Xia_Ke]

Not sure I thought they were from you doing some post processing or something. Only thing I can think of is I have had similar things happen a couple times using a dark red filter when there is a nice blue sky but a hazy horizon. Any chance this was the case here?

[jgredline]

I was using a circular polarizer, but not a colored filter.