Kodak Tri-X 400 and Ilford ID-11 for fun

[reverberation]

Film Name: Kodak Tri-X
Film Format: 35mm, 24 exp
Actual EI: 400 ISO
Contrast level: Capable of a wide contrast range depending on the development.
Presoak: Yes. Water, at 90 degrees.
Developer Name: Ilford ID-11
Developer Dilution: 1 to 1
Developer Temp. 30c
Developing Time: 8 min 13 sec.
Time Measurement Technique: From start of pour-in to start of pour-out...pouring as fast as possible.
Tank Size: single roll, 35mm
Tank Type: plastic
Tank Fill Level: 300 ml.
Agitation Technique: With tank flat on table, tank was moved in ovals, one rotation every 3 seconds. Every two minutes tank was inverted and vigorously agitated for several seconds.
Stop Bath: 55c water lightly agitated and removed for a total time of 7 seconds.
Fixer: Ilford rapid fixer @30c for 5 minutes (this was mixed at 1:4).
Stop Bath: Kodak indicator stop bath @ 20c
Output: Film scanner.
Subject Matter Comments: This is an alternative process that appears to be best for photographs containing water. The emulsion was extremely soft for at least twenty minutes after the stop bath. The edges are interesting but I think a higher developer temp combined with a drastically low fixer temp and no stop bath at the end would yield better results as far as the trees are concerned. I will try this again, increasing the temps and mellowing on the agitation. Edit: I will chemically stop bath after developer instead of the water as I think the added dev. temp and chem. stop bath will be easier to track for effect.

Here is a sample of the most affected frames. Some frames were fine.





here is the viewers left hand upper corner of the preceding photo enlarged

[SmartWombat]

presoak at 90 degrees F ?

[reverberation]

Yeah, I wanted to warm the film, carrier and tank up, I might add that I only left this in for around eight seconds, so it is good you questioned it as it was not a soak. There was then a gap of around a 30 to 45 seconds before the developer went in. (I am now thinking of the effect of a boiling water soak, if it would make the emulsion more sensitive to development or effects like reticulation) I have several rolls of it and little respect for its image quality. After all, its Tri-X , you can do anything to this film. I developed and fixed it at 86 degreesF. This was the first roll I've done in close to twenty years so I thought a wobbly, disturbingly unconventional approach would be appropriate considering my bubbly and infectious personality . I stand by (not close by, down the street at the pub) those negatives. I have a bag of D-19 that has tri-x or pan-x written all over it. I know I'll never go near a roll of T-Max with it.

[Xia_Ke]

Sounds like you are having fun experimenting reverberation. Thanks for posting your process details and some samples. I've added this to the "B&W Film/Developer Database Index" thread.

For those listed in the Manufacturer's specs...

CLICK HERE FOR THE TRI-X DATA SHEET
CLICK HERE FOR THE ID-11 DATA SHEET

Here are the manufacturer's developing times for this combo:

----------------------------------20C/68F
ISO 400--------------------------7:30
EI 1600--------------------------12:00

For other film and developer combos, please visit the B&W Film/Developer Database Index

[yogestee]

reverberation,,,I would be very careful presoaking at 90 deg and then pouring 30 deg developer over your film..Your film can "reticulate"..Meaning the sudden cooling down of the film you can "crack" the emulsion..When this occurs you will see these cracks when the negative is enlarged..Not a good look unless you wanted this effect..It is irreversable..It is very important that the developer, stop bath and fixer are at similar temperatures..

Presoaking is useless IMHO..I have never presoaked my films before development..Presoaking you run the risk of further diluting your developer giving unreliable developing..After presoaking it is almost impossible to drain all of the water out of your tank..Also the warmer presoak temperature will raise the temperature of the developer..The ideal developer temperature for ID 11/D76 is 21 to 24 degC..

You have been warned

Jurgen

[reverberation]

Excellent point. I am impressed you recognized this as most college courses skip this information. Most modern films are mistakenly thought to be reticulate proof. The gelatin coating the emulsion just needs a more dramatic temperature difference to pull it off. I learned from my High School graphic arts teachers to "sacrifice" the first roll I develop in any location where I will develop multiple rolls. I think they went to school at some small college in New York. I blame them for my willingness to torture tri-x and plus-x as they were the ones who introduced me to bulk loading film. The tri-x in this case was simply a victim of timing. I have some ideas I will work on here, one of them includes reticulating, as well as exposing partially developed film to light. I have a bulk loader filled with plus-x, I want to see if the film is good, depending on what I find, my plans will change. I acknowledge I may have confused some with my temperature reporting. I put 90 degree water in the tank and then drained it and went with 86 degree developer for like eight minutes. Over developed is the only way to describe it. The key point beside my development temperature and time is the fact of the stop bath after the fixer. This film was subjected to a brutal process well outside the bounds of normal development. The way I agitated was also brutal. The film never complained....I like that....some of the exposures on the spool looked alright. They were all pictures I could forget ( I was by myself when I took them) but I will seek out those trees with a roll of T-Max.