Developing issues... Help!

[chuzmarobot]

I have not developed film on my own for many, many years. A friend just unloaded a whole bunch film developing equipment. Eager to use it, I quickly bought some chemistry and looked up some "how to" youtube videos and photography blogs.
My first roll was an utter failure. I have been trying to "troubleshoot" but haven't found much. I am hoping the more experience photographers on this site can help.

The roll came out really dark with some caramel color spots. There are some parts that are not opaque. You can kind of see through the film but not enough to even make out what the photo would be. Was it my developer? Was it mixed too strong? I did my best not to expose it to light and I am pretty confident that is not the issue. My instinct is telling me it's a developer problem.

[Franglais]

I have not developed film on my own for many, many years. A friend just unloaded a whole bunch film developing equipment. Eager to use it, I quickly bought some chemistry and looked up some "how to" youtube videos and photography blogs.
My first roll was an utter failure. I have been trying to "troubleshoot" but haven't found much. I am hoping the more experience photographers on this site can help.

The roll came out really dark with some caramel color spots. There are some parts that are not opaque. You can kind of see through the film but not enough to even make out what the photo would be. Was it my developer? Was it mixed too strong? I did my best not to expose it to light and I am pretty confident that is not the issue. My instinct is telling me it's a developer problem.

Developed film should be clear with the rectangular image clearly visible. The unexposed parts of the image (around the sprocket holes for example) should be clear.

If your film is not clear then you have not left it in the fixer for long enough or you have not agitated enough during fixing or your fixer is too weak etc.

BTW this is classic black-and-white film we're talking about?

[Axle]

Hey! Can we see an example? Also....

Can we have: the film you used, the chemistry, how you did the developing?

[chuzmarobot]

I am using Clayton liquid chemicals. I had the young lady at the camera store help me pick out the chemicals.

mixing ratios-
Developer 1:1 (She told me it was a 1:1 mix but I read up on it and it should be 1:9? confused)
Stop bath 1:19
Fixer 1:4 (I have a liquid developer that says to mix part A 1:4 and to add part B for a hardener. I only have one part and was a bit confused about part B)

I am shooting Tmax. I got so upset after the developing and I threw away the film, so, i can't take a picture of it but...

I did the developer for 9 minutes. agitating 5 times every 30 seconds.
Stop bath 30 seconds. agitating entire time.
Fixer- 5 min agitating entire time.
water- 10 min

I am using note cards to track my progress. I have 2 more rolls to try after i figure this out a bit better.

[Photo-John]

What did the developed film look like? Was it way too dense? That's what I would expect if it's supposed to be 1:9 and you mixed it 1:1. I suggest you do some "snip tests" - cut some shorter pieces (6 to 8 inches) and develop them separately until you get it figured out.

[Axle]

I've never heard of Clayton Chemistries until now. But they look decent.

Reading up online the chemicals. Yes they need to be mixed in a 1+9 ratio, that could be the problem that you're having with the way it developed all weird.

Which Tmax did you use? 100 or 400, because looking at the data sheet ( http://www.claytonchem.com/pdfs/Dark...MDEVELOPER.pdf )

Shows 100 for 7 minutes at 68F (20C) and 400 for 8min at 68F (20C) - B/W has a lot of latitude for temp, usually 1.5 +/- won't affect your developing times.

Pre-Wash - I usually let my film soak while I prepare my chemistry, a good five minutes and then pour out, the water will turn a different colour, don't worry about it, that's just the anti-hailation layer washing off.

Developing - Try a different agitation pattern. I use the following with good results, Constant agitation (inversion method) for the first 1 minute and 10 seconds. Then agitation for 10 seconds every minute.

Stop Bath - I've never used Clayton so continue to use a chemical stop bath. I usually run Ilfostop. One Minute, constant agitation.

Fix - tmax doesn't need a hardening fix, a rapid fixer without hardener will do just as well. Five minute fix, following the same agitation method as with developing.

Hypoclear - There's two camps on this, I'm in the use Hypoclear camp, it really helps clean the excess fixer off the film and improves the archival quality of the negs. Add in the Hypo, and let it sit for 2 minutes.

Wash - I use a hybrid Ilford Wash method, Fill the tank, add a wetting agent (PhotoFlo, Ilford Wash Aid, Camp Soap) invert five times then dump, fill tank, invert ten times then dump, fill tank, invert twenty times then dump. Then I let clean water flow through the tank for another two minutes then remove the film.

Also smart moving taking notes, I have a binder filled with data sheets, and just lined paper. Good luck, and be sure to share your results.

[Franglais]

...
Fixer 1:4 (I have a liquid developer that says to mix part A 1:4 and to add part B for a hardener. I only have one part and was a bit confused about part B)
....

Just an idea but - is it possible that you only have part B (hardener) and no part A (Fixer). It sound to me like your film wasn't fixed enough.

[chuzmarobot]

I've never heard of Clayton Chemistries until now. But they look decent.

Reading up online the chemicals. Yes they need to be mixed in a 1+9 ratio, that could be the problem that you're having with the way it developed all weird.

Which Tmax did you use? 100 or 400, because looking at the data sheet ( http://www.claytonchem.com/pdfs/Dark...MDEVELOPER.pdf )

Shows 100 for 7 minutes at 68F (20C) and 400 for 8min at 68F (20C) - B/W has a lot of latitude for temp, usually 1.5 +/- won't affect your developing times.

Pre-Wash - I usually let my film soak while I prepare my chemistry, a good five minutes and then pour out, the water will turn a different colour, don't worry about it, that's just the anti-hailation layer washing off.

Developing - Try a different agitation pattern. I use the following with good results, Constant agitation (inversion method) for the first 1 minute and 10 seconds. Then agitation for 10 seconds every minute.

Stop Bath - I've never used Clayton so continue to use a chemical stop bath. I usually run Ilfostop. One Minute, constant agitation.

Fix - tmax doesn't need a hardening fix, a rapid fixer without hardener will do just as well. Five minute fix, following the same agitation method as with developing.

Hypoclear - There's two camps on this, I'm in the use Hypoclear camp, it really helps clean the excess fixer off the film and improves the archival quality of the negs. Add in the Hypo, and let it sit for 2 minutes.

Wash - I use a hybrid Ilford Wash method, Fill the tank, add a wetting agent (PhotoFlo, Ilford Wash Aid, Camp Soap) invert five times then dump, fill tank, invert ten times then dump, fill tank, invert twenty times then dump. Then I let clean water flow through the tank for another two minutes then remove the film.

Also smart moving taking notes, I have a binder filled with data sheets, and just lined paper. Good luck, and be sure to share your results.

The Data sheet i'm working off
( http://www.digitaltruth.com/products...MDEVELOPER.pdf )

I did purchase some PhotoFlo as well. I just didn't use it this last time.

I have two rolls of Neopan Acros 100. I am going to give it another shot soon. I will try the agitation method you are recommending. Also, mixing the developer 1:9. I will make sure to NOT throw away the film and post an update.