Buying My First DSLR (for concert & motorsport)

[eXc]

Hi Everyone!


I am after a new camera for concert and motorsport.

I don't have a budget in mind as yet. I was thinking $1000-1500 australian. I have only started looking today. I am guessing you are mostly USA. So here is a rough idea to help you with pricing...Nikon D40 = $1000, D80 = $1600

I would like to get a decent sized lens aswell for use at the track/concerts. They will be the main uses, with the occasional usage for normal things (i.e going on a picnic)

The concerts will be dance related, in a large hall/theatre so it will need to handle low light and movement with a decent lens.

The motorsport will obviously involve speed and various lighting, there may even be night time events.

I have never owned a SLR before. So I have no idea where to begin, I know nothing about photography, I have been a point and shoot person for a while. I like to think I have good ideas for photgraphy, but have no idea how to implement them. I figure getting an SLR will get me started.

I have owned two Canon digitals before. I can't remember the models. One is about a year old, the other is about 5 years and dead. My girlfriend needs a camera, so I am going to give her my current camera, and buy a new one. I figured SLR is the way to go. She can bring hers (mine) along for all the day to day stuff, and I'll keep mine for special things (her concerts/my motorsport)


Any information, from you or links would be appreciated. I would like to keep the lens in mind for a budget.

Cheers
Chris

[readingr]

Chris,

Are you Uk based hence " I am guessing you are mostly USA. So here is a rough idea to help you with pricing...Nikon D40 = $1000, D80 = $1600"

Are you definate about Nikon, or is anything in the frame?

Roger

[SmartWombat]

I was thinking $1000-1500 australian

There's a clue there, Roger

I would suggest the Canon 400D in Australia (called the XTi in some countries).
Because of the low light performance at high ISO and the self-cleaning.
BUT it's on the edge of your budget for body only.
Do you have Canon EF lenses from your other bodies?

If not then a decent f2.8 lens for your concert and sport photography will use your budget without buying a body. Either a Canon IS or a Nikon VR will leave you with no money for a body.

[eXc]

Hi Again,

I am from Australia as Paul pointed out.

I am not set on any brand. I am open to suggestions, and i have only looked at cameras on the net, not in person as yet. I wanted to get an idea of what to look for before taking on a salesman that wants to con me.




I don't have any lens' at all. I didn't realise I would have to spend *that* much on a lens. Something like this won't do the job?

EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III lens

http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod4256.htm

Just having a look at the Canon 400D vs the Nikon D40 and D80 (I think the D80 is out of my price range..definatly is with a lens) The D40 would allow me an extra $1-200 to spend on a lens

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/comp...n_d80&show=all

There are a few differences, can someone tell me if they are worth while considering, or if it's not really gonna get used. I have never played with exposure, but obviously it's something I will be learning, so are these settings better on the Nikon? Or is it not useable in the real world?

Expoosure Compenstation -
Canon = -2 to +2 EV in 1/3 EV or 1/2 EV steps

Nikon -5 to +5 EV in 1/3 EV steps

ISO Rating
Canon 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600
Nikon Auto, 200 - 1600 (plus 3200 with boost)

Sensor Type
Caonn CMOS
Nikon CCD

Then obviously the 10mb vs 6 mb, but I know what that is.

Cheers
Chris

[Didache]

I don't think you should have trouble finding an entry level DSLR and a consumer long zoom within your price range - consider D40, Canon D350, Pentax K100D. The key here is to realise that you are being limited to an entry level kit plus a zoom from Tamron, Sigma, etc. This will not be the greatest kit in the world, but it WILL be infinitely better than what you have. Budget too for some memory cards.

If you are doing low light photography with a long zoom please consider getting one with some kind of shake reduction facility (the Pentax has it built into the body, which means that any lens with benefit - I don't know whether the others do or not, and some have it in the lens which puts the price up).

Let us know what you get in the end

Cheers
Mike

[readingr]

There's a clue there, Roger

.

:blush2: Okay I need a holiday or sleep

Roger

[eXc]

Ok, so I got to a camera store yesteday. I have decided the Canon 400d is the way to go with my budget and requirements.

I have decided to get the lens kit with it, as it isn't a huge amount. Then see how the 75-300 f/5 goes with the motosport and dance. It can't hurt to try.

I will then either get something like a 100mm f/2 and just rely on the 10mp to crop the pic into the size I want. Currently, I can get reasonably close to the stage, so it will do for a year or 2 I think. The other option is get a 50mm f/1.8 that everyone is raving about, and just get closer to the stage wherever possbible. I mean realistically, It will be used for portraits 9 times out of 10. But I suppose you could look at it then "well if you only get 3 concerts a year, better make sure you get the right pics"

I also found that the D80 fits my hands better. However the 400D with the battery back thing on the bottom fits my hand perfectly.

Now to save some more money....

Thanks for your help guys, I'll be reading the rest of the forums now to look at lenses and photography skills.

Chris

[eXc]

Ok, so since I made my decision to go with the 400d, I have read more about concert photography and how Spot Metering is extremely usefull. Actually one site said it was a neccesity.

Because one of the reasons I want this camera is for on dance concert photography, is spot metering a worthwhile thing to have? Should I pay the extra $600au and get a 30D?

Will spot metering only work on face close ups? The shots I will be doing will be full body shots.

Cheers
Chris

[dante]

honestly, it really does depend on how much you're willing to spend... i've heard that the 85mm 1.8 is an excellent concert lens (for the canon system), and is only $340us (through B&H). not sure if it'd get you close enough to the action for moto sports, though. the main problem is that you're looking to do two completely different things (one low-speed, indoors, relatively close, no flash, etc, and the other outside, decently far away, high speed, etc). if you were just shooting concerts I'd say go for the canon 350d and spend the money on good lenses, especially the 85mm 1.8 or the 100mm 2.0. if you were just shooting motor sports I'd say sell your soul to somehow pay for the XTi (faster autofocus) and the Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 (goes for around $800us new, although you might be able to find one used). these would be for optimal setups (and unfortunately would be outside of your price range with the XTi, 70-200mm and 85mm 1.8) so it really does sort of depend on what you really want to do, focus on one (either motorsports *or* concert photography) or try to do both somewhat adequately but neither one particuarly well...

hate to say it, but if you *really* want to get the good photos like you see online, you'll have to bump up what you're willing to pay a bit... I'd say start with the XTi and an 85mm 1.8 and go from there, and then keep saving for the 70-200mm whenever you can get it.

[payn817]

You say the concerts will be in a dance hall, and your girlfriend? If you keep it reasonable, you can use flash in those settings, especially considering you know the musicians. If the light is fairly consistent (as they usually are in these places), you may be able to do without the spot metering by zooming in to meter (fill the frame) and zoom out to shoot. Concert photography is more difficult in big venues with complicated light shows, so the xx-300 4-5.6 may work (if you can use flash). One trick you can try (if you know the routine) is to take the shots while the musicians are in the spot light. For example, a singer while singing, and a guitarist during a solo. That will help your shutter speed a little.

Going with flash will introduce yet more problems with your budget, and is also a little bit of a learning curve. Good luck.

[JSPhoto]

Low light as found in concerts is a real pain. You will need a very good body that focuses fast and shoots fast in low light. Being able to focus and shoot fast is important in motorsports as well The 400D is simply a 20D upgraded slightly and from what I have heard it's focus speed isn't all that hot in low light. You can however pre-focus to eliminate that issue. Shutter lag is an issue and I doubt Canon changed that from the 20D, you can shoot slightly earlier than you intended to get the shot you want.
As for lens choices, low light you need fast lensesf2.8 minimum, f1.8 or faster are best. You can get a 50mm f1.8 for $79 US if you can get close enough to the stage to use it. Great cheap lens! As for motorsports, a 70-200 works well in most cases, although there are times you need say a 28-135 or longer 300 or more. It all depends on your shooting location. 99% of the time I use the 79-200 though.

JS