Ray & Aaron QL17 Lightseal change

And anyone else with a QL17

Last time out with my QL17 I noticed some light leaks on the prints. I changed seals this morning, a long over due job. You can order the kit on e-bay for about $10.00 but it also includes a new battery. I ordered two kits but there was enough material for two changes. It also includes a nice set of instructions. It took about an hour, but that was mostly cleaning off the old gunky seals. I used carburator cleaner and lighter fluid for the cleaning. I bought two set of seals because I hope to be getting another QL17 before to much longer.
Greg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...t1959/ql17.jpg

Thanks Greg :D Already half way there. I bought a seal kit from John Goodman on Ebay a few weeks ago. Comes with plenty of seals to do a few cameras and also had full directions for changing seals on Canonets as well as my Nikkormat EL. I have to admit I've been a little lazy though :o I haven't finished the job yet as I need some more solvent to take out the last bit of glue. Would nail polish remover be okay to use?

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

Thanks Greg :D Already half way there. I bought a seal kit from John Goodman on Ebay a few weeks ago. Comes with plenty of seals to do a few cameras and also had full directions for changing seals on Canonets as well as my Nikkormat EL. I have to admit I've been a little lazy though :o I haven't finished the job yet as I need some more solvent to take out the last bit of glue. Would nail polish remover be okay to use?

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I don't think the nail polish would hurt it. The instructions that came with mine said to use alcohol. But I didn't have any. I have fixed stuck shutters with lighter fluid. So I knew it wouldn't hurt anything. I was a bit lazy to. I have had the seals for awhile. I even forgot I had the batteries. Good luck. It's not hard, just messy.
Greg

The directions with mine said to use lighter fluid to take the gunk off. I'll give the nail polish remover a shot tonight. I agree, it is a very easy process. I did all the seals and mirror pads on my Nikkormat with no problems at all. I'll have to get motivated on the Canonet tonight and finish the job so I can play on my days off :) Looking forward to some more shots Greg ;)

Aaron

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

The directions with mine said to use lighter fluid to take the gunk off. I'll give the nail polish remover a shot tonight. I agree, it is a very easy process. I did all the seals and mirror pads on my Nikkormat with no problems at all. I'll have to get motivated on the Canonet tonight and finish the job so I can play on my days off :) Looking forward to some more shots Greg ;)

Aaron

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Does the battery here look like the one you ordered? I replaced mine from the Walgreens battery but the meter is still looks to be off a stop.

Yeah, those are the exact same batteries I got from vintagebatteries.com. Haven't had a chance to test the meter yet so not sure of the accuracy but, Ray says these put the meter on the money so you should be all set.

Hey Guys,

I did the light seal change on my QL-17 also....got the kit from John Goodman and it worked great. I think I used rubbing alcohol to remove the old seals.

For the battery, I just use a Zinc Air hearing aid battery, # 675. You can buy a pack of 7 for about $5 at CVS and it does exactly the same thing as that Wein Cell. I compared them and the meter readings were identical. The size is different, but it fits fine in my Canonet. Give it a try...it's much cheaper, and you can even remove the outer ring from the Wein Cell and fit it over the 675 to make it fit "right" if you need to.

Paul

Interesting stuff!
Who is the John Goodman you are refering to?
Brian

Oops, just double checked it's Jon not John. He does really nice seal kits on Ebay. You won't find a single negative comment about him anywhere. Super helpful and friendly. Here's his webpage with directions on changing seals on different cameras and here's his Ebay items list for his seal kits. Highly recommended to deal with :thumbsup:

Aaron

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

Yeah, those are the exact same batteries I got from vintagebatteries.com. Haven't had a chance to test the meter yet so not sure of the accuracy but, Ray says these put the meter on the money so you should be all set.

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I just installed the new wein cell battery on Friday and took a bunch of shots that night and Saturday. Won't know the results until I get the film developed this week but I don't anticipate any problems.

From what I understand, negative film is very forgiving one or two stops either way because it affords such lattitude. So it may not really make much of a difference which battery one uses, but I just like to be on the safe side.

BTW, can't wait to see pics from the QL17!

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Originally Posted by schrackman

...BTW, can't wait to see pics from the QL17!

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You and me both. I have some Velvia 50 on the way, that should be here Tuesday, that I think will get first honors. Still no scanner though so not sure how I will be able to post results :(

Aaron

Your lab, or Walmart, should offer scanning services. Costs a little bit extra, but at least you'll have them on CD.

I think both nail polish remover and lighter fluid are naptha based solvents but I'm just going from memory... IOW they're pretty similar in this respect. Just be careful with the rags or whatever you use that get soaked in it - spread them out outside so they can dry out before throwing them out. Leaving them in a pile inside can cause a fire...

Neg film is pretty tolerant of exposure; especially overexposure - but light leaks will cause uneven exposure. If you think the camera leaks light, you could cover the openings with gaffer's tape (find it at a good photo store, it's like duct tape that doesn't leave a residue). Since that tape is so thick, it'll show you if the door is the problem or not.

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Originally Posted by schrackman

Your lab, or Walmart, should offer scanning services. Costs a little bit extra, but at least you'll have them on CD.

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Unfortunately no local lab to do E-6, only C-41. I planned on getting some Fujifilm mailers to send them out for development. I looked at some places that would process and scan but the prices are ridiculous for scanning. The cost of scanning 4 rolls would buy me a scanner...LOL Maybe if I just describe the good ones real well and you guys close your eyes, you'll be able to see them for your self in your mind's eye :o Anybody know of a good "jimmy rig" so that I could try and shoot some slides with my cam? :D

Aaron

Sorry for hijacking you Greg :o

Okay then, bite the bullet and invest $100 into this: http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/st...&cmArea=SEARCH

I have a three to four year old 3170 from which I scan negs and positives. I'm sure the scanner above will probably do a much better job than what I'm using.

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Originally Posted by schrackman

Okay then, bite the bullet and invest $100 into this: http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/st...&cmArea=SEARCH...

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Oh why must you tempt me so...LOL That is sweet! Can't beat the price and, after some searching, has gotten great reviews! You're right, I just need to suck it up and bite the bullet :o

Aaron

Wal-Mart will scan slides but the quality isn't the best. I can hold a slide up to the light and the quality is unreal. There is no way a digital camera can touch the quality IMO. But getting a good scan is almost impossible. If I could get a nice scan for a good price I would shot E6 all the time. Walgreens would send off my E6 and develope it for $6.00 for a roll of 36. I stayed frustrated when I shot it.

Never shot slides before. Actually my only experience with slides is every child's nightmare... the dreaded family slide show...LOL I think I'm going to have to give that V200 a shot. There was a glowing review of it on Amazon by someone who bought it for scanning slides. For an extra $50, the V350 looks pretty nice too with the addition of an auto feed film loader.

Well, just finished replacing the seals on mine. Boy was the Canonet a pain in the arse compared to the Nikkormat! Greg, how did you fair on replacing the latch end seal? Dam thing kept twisting on me. Took 3 tries to get it to set properly :mad2: Just dropped in a roll of TMAX 100. Hope the seal job came out okay :o

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

The directions with mine said to use lighter fluid to take the gunk off. I'll give the nail polish remover a shot tonight. I agree, it is a very easy process. I did all the seals and mirror pads on my Nikkormat with no problems at all. I'll have to get motivated on the Canonet tonight and finish the job so I can play on my days off :) Looking forward to some more shots Greg ;)

Aaron

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Warning: Nail polish remover is ACETONE! Keep it away from Plastics.

Too late now :o I only used a tad, on a paper towel, to take out the remaining bit of gunk in the corners of the door. Seemed to work fine. Guess I'll avoid using it in the future though :o

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Originally Posted by freygr

Warning: Nail polish remover is ACETONE! Keep it away from Plastics.

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Oops - yeah, you're right, it is acetone which is a pretty powerful solvent. It can bother some people's skin but I've been lucky with that. Works fine on fiberglass but there's a pretty good chance of having a problem with most plastics. General rule for working with stuff like this is to try the weakest solvent first, and if that doesn't work go up to something a little more powerful - and so on. Acetone would be a ways up that list, higher than lighter fluid.

Greg, you're right about the quality of slides. Something about a blue sky on slide film that just doesn't seem to work so well on digital... I have an old Acer (or Benq) 2720S film scanner and it's not bad. They usually sell for well under $100 on ebay but you will need to add a SCSI card to your computer (in a PCI slot). The scanner originally came with one but if you find one without you might have a hard time finding one, and it could be fairly expensive. There is a Windows XP driver for this scanner. I've been happy with the 8x10's from it, but it did take a lot of practice to get there.

Aaron lucky me the latch seal just fell into place. Steve I once had a scanner and it was hit or miss. Looking at the rich colors on the slide only left me disappointed with the scans. I may check into it again though. I would really like to shot it again.
Greg

Gary,
Did you take any pics of this process?
I'd love to see it, or anything related to this process.
Maybe you could post a pic of what these seals look like.
I am not familiar at all with this camera so I am just curious about it.
Thanks!
Brian

Brian, here's a link with full directions for the Canonet. If you're going to do it the full disassembly way, just make sure you put ALL the pieces back together when you're done. Got through half the roll of TMAX when I realized I had forgotten to put the film pressure plate back on :mad2: Guess I know which roll I wll try developing first :o

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

Guess I know which roll I wll try developing first

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You still haven't tried it? :) Yeah, that would be a good one to do first.

Greg, it did take quite awhile to get comfortable with it. My scanner doesn't have ICE so I have to spot out the dust, one piece at a time. I use a Giottos Rocket Air blower on the slide before it goes into the scanner, but even that doesn't get all of it off. I would guess that newer and better (and of course, more expensive) scanners make even better results much easier.

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Originally Posted by another view

You still haven't tried it? :) Yeah, that would be a good one to do first.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah... I know :o I haven't ordered chemicals, storage bottles, or a scanner yet. I have car inspection coming up which I am going to need a new set of tires and new exhaust system. I did have a little bit of extra disposable cash but, ended buying the Canonet and film with it :rolleyes: No matter though... I was practicing loading reels last night and was doing fine out of the bag. Everytime I tried doing it in the bag though I ended up slipping the damn reel :mad2: All things in due time, right? :(

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

All things in due time, right?

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Yup. You wouldn't think it would be any different loading a reel with your eyes closed versus doing it in the bag, but the reality is much different... No clue why that is. I think I might have mentioned before that sometimes it gets frustrating and you need a break. Just drop the film inside the canister (that's inside the bag too), put the lid on it and then you can take your hands out of the bag. IME if it doesn't go on the reel on the first or at least second try, then try it again later.

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Originally Posted by mtbbrian

Gary,
Did you take any pics of this process?
I'd love to see it, or anything related to this process.
Maybe you could post a pic of what these seals look like.
I am not familiar at all with this camera so I am just curious about it.
Thanks!
Brian

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Brian I didn't think to take pictures of the process but I am looking to get another RF. I want one with a bit wider lens. Maybe 24mm. I am actually thinking of a Russian Fed or Kiev, I have read that some of the Russian RF's are basically Leica knockoffs and the lenes on some of them are pretty good. I heard a story that the guy that originally made the Leica lenses got mad, packed his bags and equipment and made cameras in Russia? I am not sure how true the story is it could be internet BS who knows? But I do think they are some good Russian RFs out there...
Greg

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

Yeah, yeah, yeah... I know :o I haven't ordered chemicals, storage bottles, or a scanner yet. I have car inspection coming up which I am going to need a new set of tires and new exhaust system. I did have a little bit of extra disposable cash but, ended buying the Canonet and film with it :rolleyes: No matter though... I was practicing loading reels last night and was doing fine out of the bag. Everytime I tried doing it in the bag though I ended up slipping the damn reel :mad2: All things in due time, right? :(

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Let's stop the talking about photography and get out there and do some photography!
OK?
OK!
:rolleyes: :D :p :thumbsup:
Brian

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Originally Posted by Greg McCary

Brian I didn't think to take pictures of the process but I am looking to get another RF. I want one with a bit wider lens. Maybe 24mm. I am actually thinking of a Russian Fed or Kiev, I have read that some of the Russian RF's are basically Leica knockoffs and the lenes on some of them are pretty good. I heard a story that the guy that originally made the Leica lenses got mad, packed his bags and equipment and made cameras in Russia? I am not sure how true the story is it could be internet BS who knows? But I do think they are some good Russian RFs out there...
Greg

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I have heard similar stories, but beyond that I don't know much Russian RF cameras.
I am very happy with my Voigtlander R2A, so I would recommend it highly.
I have heard the Voigtlander's referred to as the "Poor man's Leica" for what its worth.
I don't think they are as "solid" as a Leica, but I think they are well made.
Check out www.cameraquest.com it's where I bought mine as well as Paul.
If you haven't already checkout www.rangefinderforum.com too.
A few of us in the thread are there, under the same names.
They have manufacturer specific forums(Voigtlander and Canon to name two) there as well as a general RF one too.
Brian
:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by mtbbrian

Let's stop the talking about photography and get out there and do some photography!
OK?
OK!
:rolleyes: :D :p :thumbsup:
Brian

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I did :p I took a break from doing crap around the house to get out for a hike with the D50 and Canonet :thumbsup: Unfortunately, rain clouds started to move in and now it's sprinkling outside :(

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Originally Posted by another view

Yup. You wouldn't think it would be any different loading a reel with your eyes closed versus doing it in the bag, but the reality is much different... No clue why that is. I think I might have mentioned before that sometimes it gets frustrating and you need a break. Just drop the film inside the canister (that's inside the bag too), put the lid on it and then you can take your hands out of the bag. IME if it doesn't go on the reel on the first or at least second try, then try it again later.

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I'm not sure where I was going wrong. I have a Paterson Super System 4 that has these autoloading reels. Not sure if you're familiar with it but, it has these little ball bearings to hold the film in place but, for some reason I kept slipping out of those while loading in the bag :mad2: Oh well, I'll practice some more later.

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

I'm not sure where I was going wrong. I have a Paterson Super System 4 that has these autoloading reels. Not sure if you're familiar with it but, it has these little ball bearings to hold the film in place but, for some reason I kept slipping out of those while loading in the bag :mad2: Oh well, I'll practice some more later.

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Ok, I got a dumb question. Why can't you find a room, bathroom that is totaly dark, put a towel under the door and use a dark room light. I have a room in the basement that has no outside window and it is complete darkness with the light out. Could I get a darkroom bulb and load one of these Paterson Super System 4's and then process my own film? What do you do after you get it loaded to develope the film? I want to do this.
Greg

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Originally Posted by Greg McCary

Ok, I got a dumb question. Why can't you find a room, bathroom that is totaly dark, put a towel under the door and use a dark room light. I have a room in the basement that has no outside window and it is complete darkness with the light out. Could I get a darkroom bulb and load one of these Paterson Super System 4's and then process my own film? What do you do after you get it loaded to develope the film? I want to do this.
Greg

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NO!!! Don't do it! :D Okay, I just wanted to be dramatic. But seriously, don't. Dark room lights are for printing, not for loading film on reels. Film must be handled in complete darkness, wherever complete darkness can be found. I have a window-less bathroom that I use, and I only do it at night, when I'm alone, with all the neighboring room's/hall's lights turned out, for extra protection. As long as you take precautions, and test them with your own eyes, you can probably find a suitable room or closet in almost any house.

After you get the film on the reel, and the reel in the closed tank, you can turn the lights on and starting mixing soup. There are too many details to discuss here, but my recommendation is to get a Kodak Darkroom Data Guide, and do some searching on the web.

Paul

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Originally Posted by photophorous

NO!!! Don't do it! :D Okay, I just wanted to be dramatic. But seriously, don't. Dark room lights are for printing, not for loading film on reels. Film must be handled in complete darkness, wherever complete darkness can be found. I have a window-less bathroom that I use, and I only do it at night, when I'm alone, with all the neighboring room's/hall's lights turned out, for extra protection. As long as you take precautions, and test them with your own eyes, you can probably find a suitable room or closet in almost any house.

After you get the film on the reel, and the reel in the closed tank, you can turn the lights on and starting mixing soup. There are too many details to discuss here, but my recommendation is to get a Kodak Darkroom Data Guide, and do some searching on the web.

Paul

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Thanks Paul, I have a well suited room. I mean dark.... If all I need is this thing. a dark room and some "soup" I will buy one. I will take a look at the data guide.

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Originally Posted by mtbbrian

I have heard similar stories, but beyond that I don't know much Russian RF cameras.
I am very happy with my Voigtlander R2A, so I would recommend it highly.
I have heard the Voigtlander's referred to as the "Poor man's Leica" for what its worth.
I don't think they are as "solid" as a Leica, but I think they are well made.
Check out www.cameraquest.com it's where I bought mine as well as Paul.
If you have already checkout www.rangefinderforum.com too.
A few of us in the thread are there, under the same names.
They have manufacturer specific forums(Voigtlander and Canon to name two) there as well as a general RF one too.
Brian
:thumbsup:

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Just to add to what Brian said...

I am also very happy with my Voigtlander R2A, and the two lenses I have (35/2.5 and 50/2). Stephen at Camera Quest is good to deal with and offers good prices, so unless I'm buying used, I doubt I'll buy anywhere else. Voigtlander build quality is probably not up to Leica standards, but it's plenty good for me. It feels much more solid than any of the modern plastic SLRs I've used. The lens optics are incredible for the price.

For absolute biggest bang for the buck, I think there are some pretty good Russian lenses out there, but there are also some bad ones. (I haven't actually used any of them myself.) You should definitely read up on them before buying and make sure there are no compatibility issues with whatever body you're mounting them on. RFF is a good place to start your research.

Paul

Greg, the problems aren't caused by the bag. There's plenty of room in the bag to maneuver, it's just I need more practice doing it by feel. It's a whole new ball game. There's really no difference between the bag or doing it with my eyes closed. I've been controlling the autoloading function of the reel with one hand while holding the film spool in the other. I just seem to be having a problem keeping them lined up which causes one side to pop out of the ballbearing of the reel. Luckily I have a bunch of expired Kodak Max that cost me about 40 cents a roll to practice with.

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Originally Posted by Greg McCary

...I will take a look at the data guide.

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There are a boatload of used copies on Amazon right now. All the tech info on their films, chemicals, papers, etc is available here. If your interested in the Paterson set-up click here or here. You should give it a shot Greg. Would be fun to have someone to learn with :thumbsup:

Aaron

To practice rolling film onto developing reels, you can take a long, dark,coat, like a rain coat to simulate a changing bag.
With the coat open and spread out, put the film and reel in the chest area, and do up all of the buttons, zippers, etc..
Then fold up the bottom half once or twice.
From there put your hands down the sleeves and there you go!
Just a suggestion, if done in a room that isn't exactly dark it will do the trick.
Brian