NASCAR & Baseball suggestions...

Howdy all,

I'm new to the forum and to photography. I've been using an Olympus C-3000, and want to upgrade to a better camera. I'm looking for something to take pictures at NASCAR races (emphasis there ;) and baseball games (pro). I'm looking for something under $1000, and would like some suggestions. One feature I'd like is a "rapid-shot" option, just to get sequence shots in baseball games, but I'm not sure if this is a viable option for the price range I'm looking in. I've looked at the Canon EOS Digital Rebel (6.3mp), because it's on sale at best buy, and I've got $300 dollars worth of coupons there ;) Just don't know if this camera would be good for what I'm looking for.

Also, quality tends to be more of a factor for me than price, so I could possibly be swayed to spend a little more if it gets me good gains, so let the suggestions fly :)

Thanks ya'll :)

Take a look at the new Canon Rebel XT it has alot faster continuious shots per frame I believe it is near 14 now, also has 2.0 usb, it's smaller and lighter than the original rebel as well and it's megapixel is up to 8.0. On B&H photo you can buy the body for around $1000 add 100 more for the standard lens 18-55 DTS, Hope this helps and if you want to spend more, look at the D20 from Canon, it's a big step up from the digital but would last you a lifetime.
Bob

Big issue here with both these sports is getting close enough to the action. Which means you are going to have to have longer lenses. Plan to spend more on lenses than on your camera body. Once you decide on a body than we need to talk about getting the right lens or lenses to reach and stop the action you are wanting to photograph.

Well, I'd like to shoot NASCAR but I'll settle for F1 :)

I'm using an EOS20D, and the new Rebel XT comes quite close in specification.
Higher resolution than the 300D (original rebel), more frames in the buffer.

My biggest issue would be the autofocus, I'fe found the 20D can only just keep up with F1.
If the focussing speed of the XT is slower, then you may be in trouble trying to shoot bursts and get them all in focus.
20D seemed to need a one shot warm-up :( and even then it might completely miss a whole burst.
I normally post only my successes - who wants to show failures?
But my experience is that only the centre focal sensor (cross type) is usable for fast moving action.
Which leaves me a little compositionally challenged on occasion.

When I borrowed a 300D (digital rebel in the rest of the world) last year I was surprised its low light focus was inferior to the Minolta A2 point & shoot. But on almost all other respects it won hands down. I expect the XT to be better.

Unless your'e buying lenses second hand though, expect to spend far more on lenses than the body!
My total spend was around $7000, take away a 20D body and you can see the lens cost - eek!

Are you shooting from the stands, or do you have media pass type access? (pits & paddock)
If you're in the stands, then you'll either be using a short lens, right down by the wire, and relying on panning to blur out the wire. Or you'll be high enough up to shoot over the wire, then you'll want a good long lens.

I've found the 70-200 a good all-round lens for the track. But a 400mm (yes, even with the 1/5x factor) or longer would be a big improvement. Just not at the price !!
I did get the 2x converter, to effectively give me 140-400 and I know the extra focal length is needed.
But I want better quality now, so I'll be looking for a good second hand 400mm.

Canon's IS is well worth it, I've got good shots even handheld with the 70-200 and surprisingly often with the converter as well. But a monopod ought to be on your shopping list to go with the long lenses.

Around the paddock, I'm equally divided between the 70-200 and the 24-70 so I will probably buy a second body (perhaps an XT?) so I don't miss more shots while swapping lenses.


Ok, so what about Nikon?
Well, I think that there are equally good bodies and lenses there too.
My decision was what was available, and affordable, in time for the first F1 test session I could get to this year in Barcelona.

Hey ya'll, I'm finally back :)

Sorry for taking so long to respond, I've been on the road in the middle of BFE for the last few weeks for work.

Thanks for the responses, they are much appreciated. I'm really liking the new Rebel XT the more I read about it. The only thing I don't care for is it's size (big hands), though I think the extended battery grip would fix that just fine.

Another big factor for the XT is that right now, with about $350 dollars worth of reward zone rebates from Best Buy that I have, I can get it for around $650 with the lens kit.

So, I guess my next question is, if I go with the XT, what lens would ya'll suggest? I actually get pit passes quite often for NASCAR races, but I tend to take more/better looking shots from the stands.

I'm still very green to all the photography jargon, so I'm a little slow on the uptake on the differences between the different lenses. (I haven't had much time to research it the way I normally would)

Thanks for all the help :)

I think the Rebel XT with the battery grip would be a good bet for what you're looking for. I have the grip on the original DRebel and I love it. Not sure about what lenst to recomend, but buy the best one that you can afford. Don't go with a cheap lens, you will only regret it down the road. One suggestion I do have tho is to get a good polarizer for the lens. A woman I know takes a lot of race photos, (her son races) and with a polarizer, she is able to remove the glare from the windshield and see the driver inside the car. I think her son races at night tho, so that could make a differance. A polarizer is a great thing to have no matter what your subject is tho.

Yep, the rebel XT looks a good choice, I was considering it as a second body for F1.
But I'll probably go to the 1DsII and demote by 20D to second body.

Consider renting a lens for the weekend when you need it.
That way you can use a high quality lens and not have it sitting idle for most of the time.

If not, then get the best lens you can afford.
Don't buy a cheap one, it's a false economy.
You'll end up replacing it with a good one anyhow later on.