Sigma 50 - 500 APO f4-6.3 4/3 mount (Bigma)

Zoomed in at 50:
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7...500at50rf7.jpg

Zoomed out to 500:
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4...00at500oo0.jpg

Front view:
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1...00frontwx0.jpg

When you see the size of the lens in comparison to the size of the camera it leaves no wonder as to why many users of this lens have nick-named it the "Bigma".

So far this lens has not let me down. The first aftermarket lens I have bought and after the time I have spent using it now I will not hesitate to go with sigma again in the future.

My only complaint is that if it is a low light day it's not worth taking out of the bag due to the lower aperture values at the top end of the zoom.

Over all the focus speed is better than the kit lenses and the focus motor is so silent it takes a bit of getting used to after the comparitvely noisy kit lenses.

In high light shooting situations at high shutter speeds (1/500 - 1/2000 all tested) the clarity of the image will not leave you wanting. In lower light situations at 50 it still gives a clear and low noise image but the higher apertures at the max zoom and the Olympus issues with low light noise the noise level is amplified.

Also when shooting through branches for wildlife shooting there is a slight ghosting and red/cyan flare on the branches which are out of focus from teh main subject which can easily be cleaned up later in photoshop.

Purchased from B&H camera's for $999 USD back in November and it has pretty much replace the 40 - 150 kit lens altogether when field shooting.

The size of the lens is a bit daunting at first but once you get used to the 7 lbs of metal in front of the camera it becomes much easier.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jaedon

Zoomed in at 50:


Zoomed out to 500:


Front view:


When you see the size of the lens in comparison to the size of the camera it leaves no wonder as to why many users of this lens have nick-named it the "Bigma".

So far this lens has not let me down. The first aftermarket lens I have bought and after the time I have spent using it now I will not hesitate to go with sigma again in the future.

My only complaint is that if it is a low light day it's not worth taking out of the bag due to the lower aperture values at the top end of the zoom.

Over all the focus speed is better than the kit lenses and the focus motor is so silent it takes a bit of getting used to after the comparitvely noisy kit lenses.

In high light shooting situations at high shutter speeds (1/500 - 1/2000 all tested) the clarity of the image will not leave you wanting. In lower light situations at 50 it still gives a clear and low noise image but the higher apertures at the max zoom and the Olympus issues with low light noise the noise level is amplified.

Also when shooting through branches for wildlife shooting there is a slight ghosting and red/cyan flare on the branches which are out of focus from teh main subject which can easily be cleaned up later in photoshop.

Purchased from B&H camera's for $999 USD back in November and it has pretty much replace the 40 - 150 kit lens altogether when field shooting.

The size of the lens is a bit daunting at first but once you get used to the 7 lbs of metal in front of the camera it becomes much easier.

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Hey dude, there's a speck on your lens. Oh wait, that's your camera...:p

I have been checking this lens out, and I am not afarid to admit that I am a bit concerned now. Damn that thing is HUGE!

I would love to see some of the shots you have gotten with it.

Here's you go John.. just for you.

As you can see the clarity greatly improves when the sun is out. All of the following shots are handheld. The low light issues for AF really become apparant when you're zoomed out to max and trying to shoot handheld at 1/250th and get a focus lock.

The first shot is from about 40 feet away. f6 1/1000 Full frame image no PS work done at all:
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1563/fence5ai.jpg

The next 2 shots are from around 50 feet away .. again full frame.. but the sun went away so I was shooting with aperture wide open at f6 1/250th hand held at the end of a very long breath to do my best to eliminate the camera shake. PS corrections, exposure adjustment of a full 2 stops, curve adjustment and levels adjustment to bring back the detail:
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6732/scratch5gv.jpg

The tree behind the fence is where he ran up for me to get the next shot.

Here's an example of what I was mentioning about the branches which are out of focus and give you the ghosting / cyan flare... Ihave made some attempts to fix this but as you can see I have been unsuccessful so far:
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/5092/treed0kl.jpg

I never got an email telling me that you posted these dude.

I was just doing a search for the bigma on google and this thread came up. That lens is wicked sweet. Can you post some more recent stuff from it?

Check out my gallery on here and on my website John. I rarely shoot with any other lens anymore. With the IS in the E510 now it has more than made up for the exposure for me allowing me to shoot slower. The sweet spot in the lens is F8 for sharpness.... still a bit soft when shooting wide open but I find most lenses I have used are.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jaedon

Check out my gallery on here and on my website John. I rarely shoot with any other lens anymore. With the IS in the E510 now it has more than made up for the exposure for me allowing me to shoot slower. The sweet spot in the lens is F8 for sharpness.... still a bit soft when shooting wide open but I find most lenses I have used are.

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Thanks for the quick response J.

I will have to wait till I get home to see your site. The computer here at work does not have the updated versions of java and flash.

Damn I.T...:mad:

J:

Tell us a little about your technique - are you shooting handheld? using bracing techniques? tripod or monopod? fancy ballheads, etc?

This lens looks like a purchase in my near future, and whether or not this can be handheld might slightly effect my cravings for the 50-200 :-)

Thanks for all of the info. I will certainly come in handy to others. I just wish I had an extra grand to spend.

I don't see any cyan flaring in the last photo. . I ran it through cs3 and lightroom and I didn't pick up much cyan colors at all. A good thing to do in photos where you know you just have no cyan other than in faulty areas is to go to photoshop cs3 and then hit ctrl+u (hue and saturation) then click the color tab >cyan> lower the saturation (if not to -100 then somewhere in between that and 0)