Nikon D2X Help

[idle0095]

Okay so now that you found out what I was asking do you know which is the best to use for that mode? Which af should I use?
Do you always shoot with the lens hood on?
I've been looking into different camera to replace my d2x. Either a d3, d700 or d800 but those are hard to get in the USA. I saw some d300 used with under 9000 actuations for $700. I just like the pro body a lot. I want fx but I think I'll wait until I learn more.

OK I downloaded the D2X User Manual from here:

http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/...X_en_print.pdf

Looking on page 77 I can see the familiar big blob icon on the 3-position selector switch at bottom right of the LCD screen that corresponds to "Dynamic area AF with closest-subject priority". That's what I use on the D300 and the D800 when I have to shoot a very variable subject quickly.

I can see why you ask the question about focus modes. The D2X seems to be really complex. I think they simplified it in later models (the D800 is the easiest to understand - I highly recommend for a FX camera)

[Franglais]

It looks like the ability to preprogram focus points, high-speed crop and "Group Dynamic AF" disappeared with the D2X and it's 11-point focussing sensor system. All subsequent pro Nikons (including the D300) have 51 focus points and the ability to restrict the choice to 9, 21 or all 51 points (in Dynamic Area AF).

If I were you I would forget about "Group Dynamic AF" and stick to modes that are carried forward on later models:

- Single-shot focussing + Single area AF when you have the time to focus precisely (portrait)
- Single-shot focussing + "Dynamic-area AF with closest subject priority" for scenes where you don't have the time to focus properly but the subject is static (groups where people pose)
- Continuous focussing + Dynamic-area AF for anything where the subject is in constant movement and you are following it, popping off a shot from time to time (racing cars, children playing)

Yes I always shoot with the lens hood. It avoids stray light and even helps to protect the lens from impact (my 80-200 f2.8 fell out of my bag onto the street last week. The lens hood (reversed) is mashed up but the lens itself is OK)

I have been very happy with my D300 for the past 4 years. Put the battery pack on it and you could hardly tell it apart from the D2X. Plus you can go up to 3200 ISO with almost no loss in image quality.

The D800 is heartbreaking. The extra detail (compared with the D300) shows me all the times where I got the focussing slightly out. To get the best out of it you have to be really really careful

[idle0095]

man i just don't know what camera to get after i learn this d2x. Im learning towards a used good d3 because i love the professional body.

[Franglais]

man i just don't know what camera to get after i learn this d2x. Im learning towards a used good d3 because i love the professional body.

Now that you've got used to the D2X, you want the D3. So take your time and wait for the best opportunity.

A few thoughts:

- If you get the D3 don't forget that you will have to get a FX walk-around zoom lens. Your DX Tamron 17-50 fits on the D3 but it only gives you 5Mpix
- The D800 has so many pixels that when you fit a DX lens you're still got 16Mpix which is more than enough for most uses
- If you get tired of carrying around a big body and you want something that doesn't attract attention then you just remove the battery pack of the D300, D700 or D800 and you go back to having a "normal" DSLR.. I really like that.

[idle0095]

I can get a d300 right now for $600 very little shutter count. All my lens are all FX lens. I have the Sigma HSM OS 17 to 70, Tamron 70 to 300 and the Nikon 1.8 50mm. ALL of those do DX Flim and FX.

Reason I want a D3s or D3 or D3X is because the D2X is dieing technology basically and I love the pro body feel. I had a D90 with battery grip and for some reason now that I have the D2X i like it 10 times over the battery grips. But I can wait until something comes up good. Thats how I got the D2X. Fredmiranda has a lot of used gear on there but the D3 are still priced over 2K at the moment.

[idle0095]

Is it worth it to spend another $600 and get the D300S? Live view I could care less for so no biggie there but I like the idea of the dual CF and SD card idea. But is it worth $600 more.

[Franglais]

I can get a d300 right now for $600 very little shutter count. All my lens are all FX lens. I have the Sigma HSM OS 17 to 70, Tamron 70 to 300 and the Nikon 1.8 50mm. ALL of those do DX Flim and FX.

....

OK I thought you had the Tamron 17-50. The problem is the same with the Sigma 17-70: it's designed for an APS-C (DX) sensor and not for a film-sized (FX) sensor.

See here:

Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM Lens for Nikon 668306 B&H

See "Note! Not suitable for 35mm film SLR cameras or for any digital SLR camera with image sensor bigger than APS-C size, e.g. Canon 1D series"

If you put it on the D3 then the camera will show a frame in the viewfinder and only shoot a 5Mpix image. I think you can force it to shoot the whole image but the corners will be dark.

A D300 for $600 is excellent value. Plus it works about the same as the D3 and the D700 if one day you decide to go FX

[idle0095]

Also whats a used D2X selling for these days? It as 31k for shutter actuations. I see the battery grip for the D300 is like $250. Thats insane.

Is it worth it to spend another $600 and get the D300S? Live view I could care less for so no biggie there but I like the idea of the dual CF and SD card idea. But is it worth $600 more.

[idle0095]

Page 84 in the manual has a section about metering. Whats the best setting for that?
3D color
matrix II/
Color
matrix II/
Color
matrix

Or

Centerweighted

or
Spot?

[Franglais]

Check on EBAY for used prices. When I'm finished with a camera is usually worth so little that I give it away to someone who needs it.

A battery grip is very useful when you need to hand hold a big heavy lens like the 80-200 for long periods, like in sports. I don't find I need a reserve battery in the camera - a full charge on the D300 or D800 lasts for 800 shots.

I don't think the D300S has any advantage over the D300 apart from the ones you mentioned, which aren't important to me.

I always use 3D colour matrix metering. The camera measures the light (in colour) in 1024 zones, compares with a database of known scene types, takes into account distance and focus point and comes up with a result. It's a system that worked well in the D200 (same generation as the D2X), much better in the D300 and better still in the D800.

I haven't yet figured out in what circumstances matrix metering doesn't work. In difficult cases (stage productions, shooting against the light) I check the histogram display on the LCD (p139) and if necessary I use exposure compensation (p97) to adjust for a particular subject. But I shoot RAW anyway and I know that I can correct exposure by plus or minus 2 stops in processing.

Spot metering sound like a good idea - in difficult light you just meter off a spot of the subject that you want to have come out as 18% grey. I find I often get it wrong and matrix metering does a better job

Center-weighted metering is what we did 25 years ago where you meter the center of the image without including too much of the sky and hope that it averages out to a 18% grey. I've never used it on Nikons.

[idle0095]

Thanks. I got a D300 today with 14k on the shutter trading a 2.8 lens i didn't use. So far its so different shooting then the D2X. I like it a lot. Def want the grip though. So now if I have anymore questions your familiar with the d300 so should be easy.

Sold my D2X today. I traded a bit as well. He gave me a brand new MB-D10 grip with Battery and cash for the D2X.