Re: Using Kodak TMax B&W 100
I think you will be just fine with this film. B&W print films like T-max and Tri-X are very forgiving.
Re: Using Kodak TMax B&W 100
Both Kodak T-Max 100 and T-Max 400 are wonderful films..I haven't shot B/W film (or colour for that matter) in years..I use to use T-Max a lot when I was shooting film in both 35mm and 120..As I recall Kodak once made a special developer for T-Max (can't remember its name) but I got great results using Kodak D76 or Ilford ID11 developers..
One word of warning,,,never ever over-expose B/W fims especially 400ISO films as they get grainy as all get out (maybe OK if you are looking for an effect)..The trick is to expose for the shadows and pull the development back so the highlights don't get clogged up..
B/W film has a brightness range of about 5 stops from the darkest shadows to the highlights with detail and you need to be somewhere with in this range..If you take a metre reading of both the shadows and the highlights and you have more than 5 stops as you would find in a beach or snow scene reduce the development time by about 10%..This makes the negative more printable and reduces the grain..On the other side of the coin,,if you have a low contrast scene ( overcast day) expose for the highlights and increase the development by about 10%.This will increase the contrast a tad..The perfect negative is when the subject contrast equals the negative contrast,,sometimes difficult to attain but one can get damn close with practise..
Shooting and developing your own B/W film is heaps of fun and the best way to learn about the relationship between exposure and development..
Good luck
Jurgen
Australia
Re: Using Kodak TMax B&W 100
I miss my B/W darkroom!! :(
Jurgen
Australia
Re: Using Kodak TMax B&W 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by yogestee
never ever over-expose B/W fims especially 400ISO films as they get grainy as all get out
I haven't shot a whole lot of T-Max other than the 3200, but my experience with any negative film is that it can handle over exposure a lot better than any amount of underexposure. In fact, I usually set my ISO dial at about 2/3 or one stop towards overexposure just for insurance with having more shadow detail and less grain.
I was more of a fan of Tri-X personally, because it had that classic grainy look to it. T-Max is probably best in T-Max developer which is very easy to use. It even comes as a concentrate so there's no powder to deal with.
Go ahead, shoot it and enjoy it. If you really want to get the most out of any B&W film, you really need to do it yourself though. There are some good books out there on how to do it, or you could look for a course at a local college, art museum, etc.