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  1. #1
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    Nikon N80, better lens choice?

    I'm planning on purchasing an N80 as soon as I get enough money. I've been looking around and I've found that they come with different lenses and I was wondering what the better choice would be between these two:

    28-100mm
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=271263&is=USA

    or

    28-80mm
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=199520&is=USA

    Are they basically the same lens? What are the advantages/disadvantages of the different size? Is the only difference that one is 28-80 and the other is 28-100? What would you recommend? I don't mind spending the extra money on the 28-100 if it's going to be better.


    Recently, a friend pointed me to this lens, which is only slightly more expensive and is a D lens, instead of a G, and he said that D's generally have more contrast and sharpness than G's. Is this true? Anyways, here is the lens he pointed me out too:
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo

    I'm not sure which option to go with, and I'm stressing out about this because this would be a lot of money for me to spend and I want to be happy with my purchase. I would appreciate any input on this matter and would also take suggestions to other simalar lenses. My budget is ~$450. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Seasoned Minolta Man Clemmie's Avatar
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    My equipment is Minolta, so I won't speak to the camera itself. There are Minolta models that are better featured for less money - but Nikon is also good, and the N80 has a solid reputation.

    On the lenses, 28-80 vs. 28-100, aside from the $60 difference in the after-rebate kit pricing - a question to consider is "Which lens will you add next?" Probably a telephoto. Look at pricing on those and compare 80-whatever with 100-whatever - and the difference may help you decide how high to reach now.

    On my two Minoltas, I have a 35-80 as the base lens on one, and a 28-100 on the other - so I am familiar with both coverage ranges. The 28-100 is a lot more versatile for all-around shooting. And if it will be a while before you add that tele, then the extra coverage now will make the wait a lot less painful.

    Also consider, if you'll plan on keeping the camera a long time, an Extended Warranty. I see B&H offers two choices on this one, each at $24.95. A two-year extended from Nikon - and a 7-year plan, which covers both camera and lens, from Mack Camera Repair. (I have the Mack plan on my Maxxum 7). At this pricing, they are good cheap insurance against a major repair bill.

    In addition to your kit price, don't forget to budget for shipping (about $11), and the batteries (required with the order, about $8). And remember you'll have to pay the full price on the kit, and wait for the rebate to come back. So the 28-100 kit - with shipping, batteries, and service plan - would be about $512 out of pocket now, then the $60 rebate back in probably two months, for a final total around $452.

    B&H is an excellent vendor. I got my Maxxum 7 from them recently, and will deal with them again.

  3. #3
    nature/wildlife co-moderator paulnj's Avatar
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    too easy...... get the N80 and the 28-80 D 339/129...$470- 50 rebate $420 ;)

    add the hood, batteries and shipping..... <$450 AFTER REBATE

    the warranty is a good idea FOR THE BODY

    D means DISTANCE... basicly the camera tells the flash how far away your suject is using this lens
    G mean GONE... aperture ring is GONE, camera controls the Fstops
    CAMERA BIRD NERD #1




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  4. #4
    has-been... another view's Avatar
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    I'd go with the 28-80 too. There's not that much difference in angle of view between 80 and a 100mm anyway, and $350 for the kit is a great way to get going. Get the lens hood too and use it - not only will the hood reduce flare (happens sometimes when the main light source - like the sun - is behind your subject) but a hood can also help protect the lens. After shipping, you still have a few bucks left for film too...

    "D" lenses communicate subject distance (well, the distance that the lens is focused at) to the body and flash. You need a newer body and flash to do this - the N80 and any recent flash will work.

    "G" lenses don't have aperture rings. They're only for use with newer bodies - again the N80 is included in this group - but the "G" designation has nothing to do with "D" or the quality of the lens. Some of their best lenses are "G" lenses because most pro's have been using a body that controls the aperture from the body (instead of the lens) for years.

    So, you can have a lens that's either a "G" or a "D", or both.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the info, you answered a lot of big questions for me. Anywho, yeah, I'm considering the 28-80 now, because it is a lot cheaper, and it would possibly allow me to buy the 50mm f/1.8 right now instead of waiting like I would have to have done if I go with the 28-100. An argument I have FOR getting the 28-100 is that the 20-100mm should be slightly faster at 80mm than the 28-80mm, I believe (since they are both f/5.6 at their long focal length). Isn't this true? Or is the difference to small to even notice?

  6. #6
    Seasoned Minolta Man Clemmie's Avatar
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    The difference in apertures at 80mm, if any, would only be a fraction of a stop at most - and virtually any film you shoot with will have more than enough latitude, that the small difference wouldn't be visible. The multi-aperture zooms tend to progress in steps rather than a continuum - so it's likely that 5.6 would be the minimum at both 80 and 100.

    I'd say you've landed on a solid plan, pairing the 28-80 with a 50/1.8 - The 50 will be good, for example, for shooting close-ups of flowers with the ability to blur out the background quite effectively. Whereas shooting them at 50mm on the 28-80, the minimum aperture will be about f/4. That two stop difference can make a lot of difference in depth of field at close range.

    The 50 is also a good length for outdoor shooting. When your focal point is over 30 feet away, to where depth of field is no longer an issue, the lower stops will allow you to shoot slower film for extra sharpness/less grain. For example, you could shoot 100 fllm, where the zoom would require 400.

    Now that you have a plan, order the equipment and get to practicing. It will be fall colors time in your part of the country before you know it.

  7. #7
    Be serious Franglais's Avatar
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    Think again

    Quote Originally Posted by rozich
    Thanks for the info, you answered a lot of big questions for me. Anywho, yeah, I'm considering the 28-80 now, because it is a lot cheaper, and it would possibly allow me to buy the 50mm f/1.8 right now instead of waiting like I would have to have done if I go with the 28-100. An argument I have FOR getting the 28-100 is that the 20-100mm should be slightly faster at 80mm than the 28-80mm, I believe (since they are both f/5.6 at their long focal length). Isn't this true? Or is the difference to small to even notice?
    Sorry to disappoint you but from about 80mm onwards the 28-100 indicates f5.6 as its maximum aperture (just checked mine out).

    I've had the 28-80 D in a kit with my F80 and I swapped it for the 28-100 G in a kit with my F75. Both give fine results but with lots of distortion at the 28mm setting. I actually prefer the 28-100 because the 28-80 felt more tacky. I must admit that I have a load of more noble lenses and I only use the 28-100 in risky situations.

    The 50mm f1.8 is a beautiful lens. If I were you I would go for the 28-80 + 50 rather than the 28-100.

    Charles

  8. #8
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    Alright. So basically there is no difference between the 28-80 G and the 28-80 D besides the addition of the f-stop ring on the D?

    If there isn't, then I'll be going with the 28-80G, with the 50mm f/1.8 along with a few filters.

  9. #9
    Seasoned Minolta Man Clemmie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rozich
    Alright. So basically there is no difference between the 28-80 G and the 28-80 D besides the addition of the f-stop ring on the D?

    If there isn't, then I'll be going with the 28-80G, with the 50mm f/1.8 along with a few filters.
    You've got it!

    Now - get it ordered, and start shooting.

  10. #10
    Be serious Franglais's Avatar
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    I would say the 28-80G is better

    Quote Originally Posted by rozich
    Alright. So basically there is no difference between the 28-80 G and the 28-80 D besides the addition of the f-stop ring on the D?

    If there isn't, then I'll be going with the 28-80G, with the 50mm f/1.8 along with a few filters.
    The 28-80G replaced the 28-80D. One thing was removed - the aperture ring. They seem to have added some glass to it and improved the zoom ring to make it feel more comfortable (I never actually owned one, this is just what I guess from the reviews).

    I think the 28-80G and the 50mm f1.8 is the right choice. I've had a lot of lenses but I remember being struck by the sharpness of my first images with the 50mm, and how it put the background out of focus (I was shooting at f2.8). For available light, that's what you need.

    Charles

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