Graduated Neutral Density Filters

I think I am interested in getting a graduated neutral density filter and need some advice on what to look for and recommendations of which one to get. I have done a search on our site and put it in Google but am just as confused as when I first started looking. I think the one with the bracket would be better than just a screw on type but other than that what do i need? I am mostly interested in getting landscapes without a blown out sky. Any help or information you can give me will be greatly appreciated, Jeff

This is an example

I think you are on the right track. I use a 2 stop Cokin. The threaded type are split right in the middle makeing it harder to put the horizon where I want it in the scene where the Cokin is adjustable. The bracket size will depend on the size of your lens.

In my opinion Singh-Ray makes the best filters out there the link provides a wealth of information especially on there blog. They are not cheap but worth every penny in my opinion. Another method without filters is to take an exposure for the sky, then take another exposure for the foreground and blend these 2 images together in post processing

Ray Still
http://www.singh-ray.com/

As Greg said, I think the Cokin system is what you're looking for. You will need the filter holder, and one or more adapter rings depending on the filter size of your lenses. I went to a photography workshop last spring and this question came up. The pro who was leading the class recommended going with a 3 stop filter. I don't remember if he said a hard or soft split filter. I think he said hard, but I'm not sure. He also went on to say that he doesn't use them anymore. He brackets his exposures, and then blends the images in Photoshop. He said he gets better results that way.

I'm lazy and most of the time I don't carry around graduated filters or a tripod to ensure I can get two good images to stitch. I would try to correct this image in the RAW file (using NX2)

1. Use the exposure correction tool to reduce the overall exposure by up to 2 stops to get detail back in the clouds. The blown-out highlight data is there in the RAW file but it's disappeared in the JPG. The clouds are now OK but the forground has gone very dark
2. Use the DLighting option or else adjust curves or use the central slider on the histogram to bring up the values in the mid-tones without changing the highlights too much. The foreground looks normal but there is still detail in the clouds

Take it too far and it looks unnatural but I find it works most of the time

I use Colkin filters link to a guide: http://www.geocities.com/cokinfiltersystem/theguide.htm

I use the P series do to the size of the front elements of my lenses, the A series is smaller and less costly. You can find cheap sets on ebay, but be careful as some my not be real high quality.

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Originally Posted by Franglais

I'm lazy and most of the time I don't carry around graduated filters or a tripod to ensure I can get two good images to stitch. I would try to correct this image in the RAW file (using NX2)

1. Use the exposure correction tool to reduce the overall exposure by up to 2 stops to get detail back in the clouds. The blown-out highlight data is there in the RAW file but it's disappeared in the JPG. The clouds are now OK but the forground has gone very dark
2. Use the DLighting option or else adjust curves or use the central slider on the histogram to bring up the values in the mid-tones without changing the highlights too much. The foreground looks normal but there is still detail in the clouds

Take it too far and it looks unnatural but I find it works most of the time

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Instead of using the Dlighting option, you could also make two converted JPGs from a single RAW file with different exposure settings, and then combine them using a mask in photoshop. However, it's usually better to have multiple shots with proper exposure or actually use a GND filter so you don't have to worry about messing up the color balance trying to recover blown highlights or increasing noise to recover dark shadows. Tweaking a single RAW file works fine sometimes and not so well other times. It just depends on the situation.

I have a cokin P holder and some Hi-tech filters. I recommend starting with a 2 stop soft edge filter and then go from there. If you shoot a lot of scenes that have a flat horizon, like sunsets on the ocean (or prairie), then a hard edge is good. I had the Cokin filters before I got the HiTech filters and I really can't tell a difference.

Paul

Thanks for all the replies. A friend of mine has some Cokin filters and is going to bring them to our weekly meeting for me to try and purchase if I like them. I would also like to learn how to put two pictures together in PhotoShop in case that method is needed in the future, Jeff

No graduated filter would do your initial post image justice. It would overly darken the branches and twigs. In this instance you have two choices - manipulate in PP as others have recommended or go back when the lighting is more favorable.

I have used the Cokin system in the past (never tried them with digital equipment tho) and having the ability to adjust the graduation line is vital for landscapes. I used only the soft edged type and never really needed the hard edged version.

To do this photo justice you need three exposures and a tripod to take the photo.

As Loupey pointed out ND Grad's won't help. I have them and found them to be of limited use in pictures like this. If you have a resonably flat horizon then they are great.

Take three separate photos 1. exposed for the sky, 2, for the mid ground patch of ground next to the water, 3. for the foreground/shadows tree in the foreground.

The in PP merge all the photo's and this depends on your software, CS the try HDR,
PSE, PSP or CS then use levels, masks and blend modes or a soft eraser until your happy.

Other software like GIMP you probably use the PSE method but never used it myself.

Roger R.

You may find this article useful.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...ng-grads.shtml

Thanks, Loupey, and Rodger for the information and ideas. I really need to learn more about Photoshop and putting two pictures together and layering.

Mike I read the information on the link you gave me and it was helpful. Thanks to everyone for helping me out, Jeff