Buying ND filters

I am going to get a couple Tiiffen ND filters for my Canon 450D. I am curious which you think is a better combination:

.3 and .9

or

.6 and .9

I have a circular polarizer and a UV filter as well.

Most of my photography is done outdoors/landscape kinda stuff

Thanks

If you are going to use these for landscape the best kind to buy are the rectangular ones that fit in a Cokin or Lee type holder. If you get the round ones (like the Tiffen) the only place the graduated line can be at is in the center of the frame. With the rectangular ones you can put the graduated line any where you want it, or need it.

Singh Ray makes the cadillac of these type filters, Cokin probably makes the least expensive (although they aren't true ND). I like the Hi Tech filters for a decent cost while being a pretty good filter. .6 hard is probably the most useful of these filters, with the soft .6 being next. A .3 would probably be next as you can stack a .3 and a .6 to get your .9 in a pinch.

I would suggest the Cokin system. There are just more advantages with it. It is adjustable to match the scene and with the price of a cheap ring you can change lens size plus if you buy the three filter set it is cheaper.

The new Fui X100 has a built in ND grad. I think that will be a trend before long. It was my idea though. LOL

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Originally Posted by Greg McCary

The new Fui X100 has a built in ND grad. I think that will be a trend before long. It was my idea though. LOL

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Optical or software? - Terry

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Originally Posted by OldClicker

Optical or software? - Terry

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I am not sure I would think it was in the firmware if it is adjustable. Other wise I don't see how it could be done. I think it would be easily done in the firmware. You just better have a EVF and a good one along with a good lcd and histogram. I hope Olympus is watching this. It would be a much better feature to me than video or art filters. Maybe on the E7? I would like the left and right menu buttons control the strength of the grad and up and down arrows to adjust where it is on the scene.
Maybe Fuji will give me a cut of the pie? LOL
My next idea would be a detachable wireless LCD screen. I have seen some multimeters like this. One of the guys I work with has one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Greg McCary

I am not sure I would think it was in the firmware if it is adjustable. Other wise I don't see how it could be done. I think it would be easily done in the firmware. You just better have a EVF and a good one along with a good lcd and histogram. I hope Olympus is watching this. It would be a much better feature to me than video or art filters. Maybe on the E7? I would like the left and right menu buttons control the strength of the grad and up and down arrows to adjust where it is on the scene.
Maybe Fuji will give me a cut of the pie? LOL
My next idea would be a detachable wireless LCD screen. I have seen some multimeters like this. One of the guys I work with has one.

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If it is firmware, it would be the same as having ISO values below the native value of the sensor (generally 100 or 200), such as ISO= 50 or ISO= 25. A nice feature, but I don't know what the affect would be on the image quality. - Terry

Though expensive, I really like my Sing-Ray Vari-ND variable ND filter. To make this expense seem more reasonable, I just have one big enough for my largest lens (as well as a CPL the same size) and cheap adapter rings to fit all my lenses. This does preclude using the hood at the same time.

I really like that I can set my ISO, SS and Aperture to my desired settings and just spin the Vari-ND to get the exposure I want.

Terry

haha, yeah, hes got a point there, why not just have ISO 25/50, or even every third stop down to, ISO 10 or something. Basically - is it a technical difficulty engineering chips that are capable of ISO 10 sensitivities??

Why don't they do that in DSLR's anyway? I know all the market hype is how high can they push ISO nowadays.

Also back on topic - Josh - a cpl is usually about one stop anyway, so that is basically the equivalent of a 0.3, so I wouldn't bother with the 0.3 and just stick with the 0.6 and 0.9, or even two 0.9's. So, with your CPL, you already have one of each.

I have to second the cokin type filter setup. But make sure you purchase the correct series, A is the small size, but with a fast telephoto lens the A size will be too small. Last time I checked there are 4 different sizes of Cokin filter series now.

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Originally Posted by OldClicker

Though expensive, I really like my Sing-Ray Vari-ND variable ND filter. To make this expense seem more reasonable, I just have one big enough for my largest lens (as well as a CPL the same size) and cheap adapter rings to fit all my lenses. This does preclude using the hood at the same time.

I really like that I can set my ISO, SS and Aperture to my desired settings and just spin the Vari-ND to get the exposure I want.

Terry

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I couldn't stomach the cost of the Singh Ray I went with the Fader ND from Light Craft Workshop. I don't think this is anywhere near a true ND filter and imparts a pretty big color cast. I haven't had time to try it out yet, maybe when this fire season finally quits up here.

I don't know which filter brand is better but I do heartily agree with getting the Cokin type system and whatever brand square filters you decide on. This way you won't have to get a different filter for every lens.

I had the Singh-Ray recommended to me this weekend by a pro's pro while at a landscape workshop in West Texas. He demonstrated their use and effectiveness and it sold me.

avoid the Cokins unless you can look at them before you buy. They have a tendency to display a red/purple cast to color, that gets worse when two are stacked. I fully agree that ND's are more useful in Cokin square format though. They allow placement of the transition, and will fit a number of lens diameters with a simple change of the adaptor ring at attaches the holder to the lens. I use an ND 4 or 8 much of the time. Also note that they come in hard and soft transition. I prefer soft transition.

PS this only applies to ND grads, which I find more useful than full grads. I carry an ND 8 full however.

The straight ND filter not the graduated ND it does not mater if there a Cokin Square type or a round type filter. But for correct usage of the graduated ND filter you have to be able to move the filter relative to the lens to get the composition you wish and the correct expsure.

I have never noticed any color cast to my Cokin filters. But I also shoot RAW I am not sure if there is a difference. I agree the soft transition is the most used of mine. I use my Cokin and it does such a good job I almost never use a polarizer, but if you are planning to shoot a lot over water then I would get one.
I Have had color cast using a polarizer it seems to put some yellow in the greens and I usually have to correct it in processing. A straight ND filter is good to use on water falls to slow the camera shutter speeds.

Thanks for the tips guys, honestly I had forgotten I had posted this!

I ended up getting a Tiffen .9 to play around with, and a better more quality circular polarizer then the cheap one I have been using.

The Tiffen is just a ND, not a GND. If and when I decide to get a GND, I will look at the Cokin system, certainly makes sense

Thanks

They are many vendors of filters which will fit the Cokin filter holders. Form cheap! to gold plated, optical glass filters. It's a buyer beware and also throw in fake filters.