Help a 35mm newb?

[SirMike1983]

Hi, I got a Kine Exakta from 1937 or so about a year ago. I recently dug it out and want to start taking photos with it. I'm familiar with point and shoot digital cameras but am new to 35mm. Does anyone have pointers on using these old 35mm cameras? I downloaded a translated manual and learning the basics on operating the thing but haven't mastered how to get the best results from the camera. I haven't messed around with the shutter speeds or the like very much and would like a little information on what more advanced users use. (the shutter speed knob is set for "250" and this thing apparently has a whole bunch of different speeds). Also anyone familiar with the magnifying glass top-mounter type view finders. I'm familiar with the regular peep hole type finders but this top plate and magnifying glass is difficult to tell when it's focussing well as well as how much light I should be letting in via the lense settings.

Everything on it is original except the lense which someone replaced with a "Fujitar" awhile back. I'm currently trying to get a proper vintage Zeiss for it as well. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for the help.

[another view]

I'd recommend that you get a hand-held light meter so that you can measure exposure. Some people can guess and get it right, but it takes years of practice to be able to do this. Also, look for book on basic photography for information on how to determine exposure - Kodak has a good "how to" series for all types of photography.

Without a light meter, you can also use the "sunny 16" rule. Basically, this states that the shutter speed is the inverse of the film speed for an aperture of f16 on a bright sunny summer day. What does that mean in English? ;) Well, if you're using ISO100 film, then your shutter speed would be 1/100 (or 1/125) at f16 in mid-day sun in the middle of summer. Since we're not quite in summer yet and the sun isn't as high above as it would be then, you might need to add a stop of light (f11, 1/125). Also, if you're not shooting at noon or there's some cloud cover, etc then you'd need to add some more exposure. This is a rough guideline, but with film there's enough exposure latitude (margin of error) that it works pretty well.

[SirMike1983]

Thanks for the reply. I'll have a look at the Kodak book and see what it says. I also found this thing:
http://www.robert-barrett.com/photo/...alculator.html


It looks like it follows the rule you set out above, generally. Can anyone tell me if this website calculator is right? If so I may have a go this weekend trying its suggestions. Thanks for the help.

[another view]

That's pretty cool - haven't seen it before. It looks like it will take the guess work out of making some of the compensation for different light conditions.

I don't know that I'd agree with his exposure settings for the low light conditions, but this information should give you a good starting point - for all conditions. One other thing I noticed is that "Bright or hazy sunlight (with shadow)" doesn't make any account for what time of year it is. Here near Chicago, the sun isn't very high in the sky in winter and I'd add a little exposure due to that. With negative films, it's always better to overexpose a little than underexpose.

[freygr]

Hi, I got a Kine Exakta from 1937 or so about a year ago. I recently dug it out and want to start taking photos with it. I'm familiar with point and shoot digital cameras but am new to 35mm. Does anyone have pointers on using these old 35mm cameras? I downloaded a translated manual and learning the basics on operating the thing but haven't mastered how to get the best results from the camera. I haven't messed around with the shutter speeds or the like very much and would like a little information on what more advanced users use. (the shutter speed knob is set for "250" and this thing apparently has a whole bunch of different speeds). Also anyone familiar with the magnifying glass top-mounter type view finders. I'm familiar with the regular peep hole type finders but this top plate and magnifying glass is difficult to tell when it's focussing well as well as how much light I should be letting in via the lense settings.

Everything on it is original except the lense which someone replaced with a "Fujitar" awhile back. I'm currently trying to get a proper vintage Zeiss for it as well. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for the help.

Get you self a used Selenium Light meter. These meters do not need batteries and you can find them at Goodwill, and Second hand stores cheap. A good light meter at a camera store is very costly as all new cameras have light meters and the only new light meters are for professionalls and cost $$$.

[SirMike1983]

That's pretty cool - haven't seen it before. It looks like it will take the guess work out of making some of the compensation for different light conditions.

I don't know that I'd agree with his exposure settings for the low light conditions, but this information should give you a good starting point - for all conditions. One other thing I noticed is that "Bright or hazy sunlight (with shadow)" doesn't make any account for what time of year it is. Here near Chicago, the sun isn't very high in the sky in winter and I'd add a little exposure due to that. With negative films, it's always better to overexpose a little than underexpose.

What do you think in the alternative to his low light settings? I'm curious because tomorrow I'm supposed to be headed downtown to get shots of the Cherry Blossoms and the Monuments around sunset and at night (monuments at night). I'm hoping to get some good night time black and whites of the monuments but don't want to shoot a roll of (frankly) crap. The lowest the F stop on this Fujitar lens will go is 3.5. I'll be working with 400 ISO film so I think I will have to go with a slower shutter speed still, but I'm not sure what. The site suggested 1/4 on F=4. I think the closest speed setting my camera has is 1/2 (or else 1/10) are the closest and both are on the slow speed knob (not the fast). Any thoughts?

[another view]

What do you think in the alternative to his low light settings?

The reason I brought that up is because of something called reciprocity failure. Basically, longer shutter speeds may need some additional exposure because the film isn't as sensitive to light at a certain point. Film spec sheets will tell you how much exposure to add, and as I said it's better to overexpose neg film than underexpose. You might try bracketing, which is taking the same shot at different exposures to be sure that you have it right. Night exposures can be tricky - I'd bracket in whole stops, maybe at what he recommends and then one, two and three stops over.

1/10 is kind of an in-between shutter speed - you should have 1/15. 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1 second and possibly longer depending on the camera. I've heard that there are all kinds of regulations for using a tripod in DC but never been there personally. You'll need it, or some other way to firmly support your camera for shutter speeds like this.

[Greggie Boy]

A couple of things that may help you:

Don't use ashutter speed slower that 1/60 sec(1/30 sec if your realy stead) for hand-held shots
Always shoot at highest apeture setting possible( f 22 , f 16 etc

Opening the apeture one full f-stop is the same as reducing shutle speed by half.
For example, these setting all give you the same exposure
1/60 sec @ f-16
125/sec @ f-8
1/250/sec @ f-5.6

A good general rule for outside daylight shots using ASA 100 film is 1/60 sec @ f-8
Very bright use f-11
very dull/overcast use f-5.6

[SirMike1983]

Hi, thanks for the tips. I have a whole bunch of speeds on this camera, but some of the apparently more standard ones are missing. I know I don't have 1/60 (I have 1/50 instead) and I don't have 1/4 (jumps from 1/10 to 1/2). However other speeds are there like every second between 1 and 12 as well as a couple of manual speeds (open with press close with release). I don't have a tripod for it and DC isn't kindly to such setups because it gets in the way of people walking.

[Greggie Boy]

1/60 , 1/50, or anything close, doesn't matter.

For outdoor shots of people, groups, or anything for that matter, a electronic flash at a moderate setting acts as a "fill in" for shaded areas. Not intended to compensate for daylight exposure setting but gets rid of obvious shadows.
Want everyone smileing ? Just before you click the shutter, say " Com'on. give me a break, this is a camera ,not a magic wand"

[SirMike1983]

What type of meter do you suggest? I don't want to pay a lot for it because I'm not doing anything professional with the camera. I just want something that will be reliable and accuarate enough to give decent quality readings in all levels of light, even somewhat low light conditions. I currently have a Weston Master II I'm looking at that comes in a leather case. However, I am leaning towards something called a "Zeiss Ikophot" (I figure it should go well with the prewar Exakta Camera). Anyone know anything about those? Any other suggestions?

[Greggie Boy]

It has been many years sinceI I used a light meter but anything with ZEISS written on it is top-of-the-line.
Remember to use a light meter properly, you have to get close to the sugject for accurate readings.