Loving BW film more and more......

One of the things that I really appreciate about film is the last image shot...This roll of 36 exp took me two weeks to shoot and each and every image I took, I took great care in choosing it...I learned with this last roll, that I am setting my exposer a little to high, so I will make a mental note for this new roll...I bought a 5 pack and am storing it in the fridge...I think this is right....

Anyway here are my latest....

Here are some images I shot these past couple of weeks...
The more I shoot with my K1000 the more I love it!!!!

Here are a couple of Black and Whites I shot with my Pentax K1OOO... I was using KODAK PROFESSIONAL BW400CN Film....Anyway, here is an engine on the dyno.
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/6426/enginexh1.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/479/jgepowerxp3.jpg

Here are some I took at the San Gabriel Mission...

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/497/treeoj5.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7...egravessj2.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/808/thecrossqp5.jpg

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/6936/oldpassmp4.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/9937/oldcanonye4.jpg

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/8405/cactusht1.jpg

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/5...egrave2pg2.jpg

Here I am at Olvera Street.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7553/missionaf9.jpg

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5527/eduly8.jpg

These are at A cemetery in Culver city where many ''movie stars'' are in the grave...It would seem appropriate that I end this series with Dracula..

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5...thekidsuk5.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9633/bellakr4.jpg

There are some good shots in there. All this will help you with your K-10.

Looking good Javier! Glad to see you're enjoying that old work horse of a camera. Have you started playing with filters at all?

I like #5, that crucifix shot.
On here the dynamic range of the monitor doesn't seem quite enough to reveal the detail in the leaves.
I think when you print it there will be enough detail in the black.

Thanks folks, I am learning, slowly, but slowly.

Nice shots! Glad to hear you're enjoying your film camera. I know what you mean about being careful with each shot. That is high on my long list of reasons to shoot film. Sometimes I'll burn through several rolls in a few hours, but its much more common for me to leave one roll in the camera for several weeks. My biggest frustration with shooting film is having the wrong kind in the camera, but I recently learned how to rewind it with out loosing the leader, so I can switch mid-roll. :D

Paul

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Originally Posted by photophorous

My biggest frustration with shooting film is having the wrong kind in the camera, but I recently learned how to rewind it with out loosing the leader, so I can switch mid-roll. :D

Paul

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Thank you so much for the kind words. I know what you mean about the film..For me it was simple, Buy two K1000's...These are so plentiful and so inexpensive, I was able to afford two. One have black and white, which I am using most of the time and the other has color, but since I prefer the black and white, I am only about a third of the way through the roll...:cool:

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Originally Posted by jgredline

Here are some I took at the San Gabriel Mission...

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Javier, I like this series, and in particular # 3, The Crucifix.
Of course you already know I liked the engine on the Dyno as well. :p
-Bruce

Thanks Bruce. Tomorrow I will be picking up a 5 pack of Tri-X film..
I look forward to it.

Hi Javier - great shots! Do you find the that they are a bit on the gray side (muddy), as opposed to being contrasty? Most of my prints are like that as well and I keep thinking I'm not getting the exposure correct on when I shoot. I don;t think it's something I can change during processing as no matter how I try to change the printing exposure time, I was still not able to get the prints to pop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w_keen

Hi Javier - great shots! Do you find the that they are a bit on the gray side (muddy), as opposed to being contrasty? Most of my prints are like that as well and I keep thinking I'm not getting the exposure correct on when I shoot. I don;t think it's something I can change during processing as no matter how I try to change the printing exposure time, I was still not able to get the prints to pop.

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I wish I could help, perhaps Xia or Greg will chime in...I am on a learning curve...I have since switched over to Tri X film, so I am anxious to see how those turn out. I will say this though. The prints look allot better than they do on the web. I don't know why though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w_keen

Hi Javier - great shots! Do you find the that they are a bit on the gray side (muddy), as opposed to being contrasty? Most of my prints are like that as well and I keep thinking I'm not getting the exposure correct on when I shoot. I don;t think it's something I can change during processing as no matter how I try to change the printing exposure time, I was still not able to get the prints to pop.

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It's hard to say why you are not getting the contrast you wanted without knowing the details. What were you using for film? Were you processing it yourself? For the prints, were you having a lab do them? Were they traditional prints or from scans? Also, what were the scenes you were shooting?

One of the biggest things I had to get over was how I viewed a scene. Coming from digital I looked at colors and lighting. Lighting still plays a big roll in contrast with b&w but, color doesn't necessarily come into play. It's the tones you want to look for. You could have blue and orange in a scene which are contrasting colors but, they can be rendered the same in b&w. This is where filters come into play. I almost never shoot now without at least a light yellow filter on. CLICK HERE for a thread I did a while ago comparing some filters. This is just the first step in contrast control.

The next step in contrast control comes during developing. You can adjust your developing time +/- to either add or cut back on contrast. During developing lower tones values don't change so much but, your upper tones do. Increasing your development time over your standard will increase the values of your highlights. This can help a lot if you are shooting in a flat light scene.

Last would be the printing stage. Paper grade, or filter grade for vc papers, can be changed to get the desired contrast. Speaking from general observation, seems like most of the time I shoot with filter or I see other's shooting with filter, they usually print around grade 2 or maybe grade 3. A lot of time when I don't use a filter or I see other people not using a filter, most are printing at higher grades of 3 or 4 or even 5.

One final thing to keep in mind is that when we see a print, it is black and white while digital images are grayscale which are 2 very different things.

I picked up an excellent book recently that I can not recommend enough:

Zone VI Workshop by Fred Picker

Aaron, Thanks a bunch for taking care of him and ''me''....I will look at the filter thread also, I had not really thought about that.
Thanks again...

Thanks for the tips Aaron. I shoot with a red filter which I think would provide good strong contrasty shots. I do not have those details on my processing time to share. It had been many years ago since I've worked in a darkroom. I'm slowly picking up my camera again and will be looking for a darkroom studio near where I live now. I do remember that the paper I used was a middle grade, grade 5? Sorry, I do wish I was able to share more but it has been a while.

Hi w_keen, yes a red filter will definitely provide some contrasty shots. For my tastes it can almost be too much under most conditions. It can be easy to loose some detail in the highlights and shadows. Lately I find myself preferring to go with a yellow or green filter which gives more contrast but, keeps all the detail. For printing grades, grade 2 is normal grade, while grade 5 is the highest contrast. I'd love to see some of your old prints if you'd ever like to share :)

Superb b/w photos. I used Canon AE-1 PROGRAM, and make good photos. Digital b/w is not qite so good as analog. I like old Pentax cameras, K1000, MX or SuperProgram.:)

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Originally Posted by coa75

Superb b/w photos. I used Canon AE-1 PROGRAM, and make good photos. Digital b/w is not qite so good as analog. I like old Pentax cameras, K1000, MX or SuperProgram.:)

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I just bought an AE-1 with a Canon 28mm F/2,0, 50mm F/2.8 and 70-200 F/3.5-4.0..So far I can't see any difference between the Canon and Pentax, but the ease of use with the canon is pretty cool....

I have an AE-1 which I think has the best consumer level lenses available. The body is a mess, but the lenses are top notch.

Rev,
The lenses are the main reason I bought the AE-1 ...In fairness as I have been learning film, I have been using really cheap stuff, but I just loaded the Canon with some Tri-x so I look forward to seeing what she does.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jgredline

...I just loaded the Canon with some Tri-x so I look forward to seeing what she does.

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Which you'll be developing yourself, right?...LOL :D:D:D

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Originally Posted by Xia_Ke

Which you'll be developing yourself, right?...LOL :D:D:D

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Pondering it, but I think I will practice with some really cheap stuff. :)

I know you want to experiment with cheaper films but, honestly, Tri-X is one of the most forgiving films out there and would give you about the best odds for good results off the bat IMO.

Hmmm, OK, then I will give it a go :)

WOOHOO! :D...LOL Have you done any reading/research into any of the chemicals or supplies you want? Here's the basics of what you'll need IMO (everyone has their own methods and the debates to preferences can go on as long as film vs. digital but, this is my 2 cents)

Chemicals-
Developer: My recommendation would be HC-110. It's cheap, lasts forever, has many dilutions possibilities, and there is a TON of info out there on it. Use it one shot to avoid variations.
Stop Bath: Some people use just water, I prefer a stop bath such as Kodak's Indicator Stop Bath, it's cheap and I still haven't gone through a whole bottle of it yet. Again, this is one of those things that can be debated ad nauseum. Stop baths can be reused.
Fixer: There are basically 2 types of fixer, hardening such as Kodak Kodafix and non hardening such as Ilford Rapid Fixer. One thing to keep in mind is if you use a hardening fixer you will need Hypo Clearing Agent. Most films now from Kodak, Ilford, and Fuji have a hardening agent in the film so a hardening fixer isn't absolutely necessary. I hav been using Kodafix but, will soon be swapping over to Ilford Rapid Fixer and forgoing the Hypo. Fixers can be reused.
Washing Aid: (see fixer) if you go with a hardening fixer you will need to pick up some Hypo Clearing Agent. Use it single shot.
Wetting Agent: This helps water roll off your film so you don't wind up with spots. Kodak Photo Flo 200 is cheap and lasts forever. Some people reuse this, I use it single use.

"Equipment"-
Developing Tank and Reels: Steel or Plastic? Another debate that could go on forever. I'm using a Patterson Super System 4 with plastic autoload reels. They work great for me. If you go plastic, just make sure you keep the clean and you will have no problems.
Storage Bottles: You will want a storage bottle for each chemical you end up using. Since you will using 35mm and probably not going through a ton of film, I would recommend 1 quart bottles to start.
Graduated Cylinder: This is so you can accurately measure your chemicals. Any will do, glass or plastic.
Beakers: To simplify things, I would get one for each chemical you use so that you can have everything measured out and ready to go when you start.
Funnel: For pouring fixer and stop baths back into the storage bottles.
Thermometer: Get a reliable thermometer for chemicals. You'll need primarily to measure between 60 - 80 degrees at the extremes. 68F is considered ideal.
Timer: Any stop watch will do. I use the one on my cell phone...LOL
Changing Bag: If you don't have a completely dark place to load reels you will need a changing bag. The bigger you get, the more room you'll have to work and the easier it will be.
Film Clips: To hang your film to dry.
Bottle Opener: To open 35mm rolls. Any bottle opener will work.

I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but, most of the gear can be purchased for CHEAP on Ebay. I got my tank, 2 reels, thermometer, changing bag, film clips, funnel, and some beakers for about $40 shipped on Ebay. The chemicals will run another $30 - $40. As a comparison to having your film lab developed, I'm not sure if you have seen THIS THREAD but, it worked out using Kodak HC-110 dil. H, Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, Kodak Kodafix, Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, and Kodak Photo Flo 200 worked out to about $0.45 per roll of 35mm.

Okay, it's past my bed so please forgive me if I'm forgetting something but, please do not hesitate to ask any questions and believe me when I say that after doing your first roll you will be posting here about how you can't believe how easy it is...LOL

I have a bunch of Canon lenses for my AE-1, all of them primes, and they are the sharpest consumer level lenses I have seen. I like plus-x more than tri-x. Aarons post is excellent and I can only suggest, as he does, using Ilford Rapid Fixer. Everything he says is dead on. I use brown 64 oz. bottles that I get from a local brew pub to store my chemicals. I prefer glass to plastic for storing chemicals because glass is easier to check after cleaning. I only have plastic tanks and find them to be perfect.

Thanks Guys. I have ordered and begun to put my ''lab'' LOL together. I will be bugging with questions shortly. :)

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Originally Posted by jgredline

...I will be bugging with questions shortly. :)

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That's what we're here for. Fire away when ready :thumbsup:

Here are some Black and whites I shot with Tri - x.
Some are re-shoots..I missed the exposer on some, but live and learn.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7...rangersvc9.jpg

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/3...osstrixqo6.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/1227/post2ig8.jpg

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/2...angers3au9.jpg

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7...uildingsg4.jpg

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/9568/walkwayks4.jpg

Here are some images I shot with BW400CN Film..It seems to have a sharper look compared to Tri X but Tri X has a more vintage look about it... I also need to remember to stop down 1/2 stop...I am still learning, but having tons of fun. :)

Here is a hamster cage that my shop foreman built. It took him about a year to build it. It is an engine he cut in half and well, here you have it...
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/497/rickscage11dv5.jpg

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/5281/rickscage1ku1.jpg

Here is a peek inside the kitchen of one of my favorite Mexican Restaurants. ''EL TEPEYAC'' in the middle of ELA..
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/974/manualsul9.jpg


My Daughter Krisanie.
She just turned 20. She is my second oldest. Daddy's girl.. :)
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/1...earsoldnd0.jpg


My Twins, Daniel and Claire. I focused on Claire. I should have stopped the lens way down. Live and learn.
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/6270/clairewq2.jpg


Daniel shooting something.
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4598/myclone2qe8.jpg

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/8513/myclone5my6.jpg

He pretty much took possession of the K100D super with it's 28-300 Tamron super zoom
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/3885/myclone1qo0.jpg


Here is a race engine and some race shortblocks.
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/850...ngines2iz3.jpg

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6...enginesvk0.jpg

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/7...ngines1rf4.jpg

A trip through the grave yard.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/7563/grave1yy2.jpg

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/1636/grave3mn3.jpg

http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/1120/treeqn4.jpg


Here is a fountain at the San Gabriel mission.
http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/107/themission1nv9.jpg

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/5829/themissionjp6.jpg


And a day at the pond.
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/5309/lakeqc9.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/8325/myclone3ku0.jpg

Looking good Javier :thumbsup: I particularly like the engine shots. They make for some great tones. Might make for a good B&W photo essay :)

If you want sharp film, Tri-X is NOT the film for you. It's great film but, it's one you buy for the grain. If you want SHARP, check out the new TMAX 400. It's incredibly sharp. Or, if you want a good compromise, try Neopan 400, it's sharp with a bit of grain.

Aaron
On these last two shots I posted above, any idea on what caused the halo?

Not sure :confused: I thought they were from you doing some post processing or something. Only thing I can think of is I have had similar things happen a couple times using a dark red filter when there is a nice blue sky but a hazy horizon. Any chance this was the case here?

I was using a circular polarizer, but not a colored filter.